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For future members with the same problem: Problem fixed by replacing the battery.

Hi all, My iAquaLink 2.0 set up is losing time throughout the day. This seemed to start after some storms and power outages occurred. Could this be due to a failing CR2032 battery? Should I just replace that and see if it keeps time? Or is this something else? I think I know how to remove the...

Installed and everything is working properly with the impeller and it passed all checks, at least outside of the pool. We don’t open for a few more months. Hope I get another year or two.

Thanks, Jim. That makes sense. Fingers crossed.

Hi all, Like most of you, my Marina P&S Warrior SI’s impeller motor died after a little over 2 years out of warranty. I decided that I would purchase a new motor unit to get a few more years out of it before replacing. To my shock, most of the online parts companies I normally purchase from...

Update 10/22/21 Success! Purchased a true OEM 4 wire flow sensor instead of the cheaper after market part I got from Amazon. Installed with 4 wire set up. Added 3 bags of salt and tested 2 methods. General agreement of 3600ppm with 1766 and the LaMotte Tracer at 3700ppm. Fired the pump up…...

True. But the cell was giving me a 99+F water temp reading so I know there was an issue with the thermistor. Couldn’t just be the salt. I’ve done 3 things: 1. Bought that salt meter 2. Added 3 bags of salt to the pool today (should get me up to 3800-3900 based on 1766) 3. Ordered a genuine...

Thanks, purchased the LaMotte

8/6/2019 so nope :(

In 2019 from Amazon I don’t know of any other reliable methods

Should there be any issue with just twisting the wires together?

And what other reliable methods for testing salt are there other than the 1766? That was gold standard I thought?

The new reagents just a few months ago from tftestkits

I’m most frustrated that cutting the wires didn’t get the cell working again. It seems to be different than everyone else’s experience and has me worried that there is an issue with the cell itself.

Yes it does. The switch had 4 wires. So I could buy either the old 4 wire or the new 3 wire based on what I’m reading but maybe the new 3 wire would be the safest bet.

https://www.partswarehouse.com/Pentair-Flow-Switch-Pentair-IChlor-1-2-Male-Pip-p/523100.htm?gclid=CjwKCAjwk6-LBhBZEiwAOUUDp5oodFRLnGp5pIK0CfmrJfhefD4uwAiCtIxoFFhUNsiW8jcZcatI9BoC5XAQAvD_BwE&Click=365719 Is this a genuine part?

The minimum is 2800 per what is written on the actual unit.

Also, what is warranty on these? Did I void it?

So I installed the new flow switch (just twisting the wires together) and now the flow light is red. So this flow switch is bad OR twisting the wires together isn’t sufficient? Can someone point me to a genuine Pentair flow switch/thermistor?

The reagents are brand new as of a month ago. And the test was matching my old reagents anyways. Im going to plug the lines and take the unit out and replace the thermistor and see

Diagnostic mode shows all 5 lights flashing.

after a long time it went to red

So the rewired back to original is leaving me in the same situation. red and green flashing endlessly! What in the world…

I just reattached the wires (just twisting them together because I don’t have small wing nuts). Waiting now.

09/25/2018 Ok I will reconnect both white and green back to old thermistor. The new one is probably after market from Optimum Pool Technologies. I got it from Amazon. It is a 4 wire and instead of a black wire it’s blue. If there a different one I should buy please link me to it? Yes, I am...

Ok it eventually stopped and went to solid red on low salt

Now when I run the diagnostic mode, after it goes back to flashing green and red