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BTW, I only got the green stuff with the Frog system.

I had not seen it on that post. Responded again. If you are OK with that and get nothing more with another purge and rinses see what happens next time. Maybe you’ll be happy with it.

Even with the Frog system I would not expect super thick back sludge after only three months. I got about what you see but it kept coming with another purge and rinse. It seemed like the fresh water rinse released more of a different color and so I did another Ahhsome purge or two until I got...

I purged with the Ahhsome and rinsed multiple times the first couple changes while using the Frog system until nothing else came out. After I switched away from the Frog system 6-9 mos out, at first I also did multiple rounds to be more sure. But after seeing that one round was enough a couple...

I also used a Frog hot tub system for the first 6 mos with similar use to you and the same procedures. At first it seemed great. I changed the water at 3 mos. I was shocked at how much “scunge” was released using the Ahhsome purge from my first water change after only 3 mos. Since it was my...

Good fair questionn and there is some debate on why use MPS at all especially if you regularly sanitize or SLAM with some form of chlorine. I mainly use dichlor until my CYA stabilizer levels get above 30-50 then mainly bleach from a shot dispenser bottle to maintain or after use. If we are...

Yes only MPS as a non chlorine shock (Potassium Peroxymonosulfate) every once in a while depending on how much use. Not instead of chlorine disinfectant. I basically follow this Spa & Hot Tub Maintenance A Basic Guide overall but the MPS oxidizer shock seems to “freshen” things up nicely...

A biochemist/microbiologist here. The enzyme pool and spa products are all BS and a waste of money, especially in a hot tub. In general, enzymes are very substrate specific and also generally only work well on their substrate under a narrow range of conditions. This is how they work in...

Same here. Won’t connect to server. Apparently the server has been down all day and still is down as of 4:04 PM EST.

Jim R, So whatever this robocleaner “senses” in the XYZ planes and controls is in the motor? Thanks, CK

The Active 20 would do short repetetitive stuttering back and forths. Hardly any long runs, stuck on the drain more ofter, not move much sideways when it did climb the wall. I was being facetious on the brain, but what part is it that imparts its random movement and what causes it to change...

Usually I gently set the unit in the pool. But being pretty disgusted with its stupidity (not even random) I gave it a good arching toss into the pool. The thing seems to behave like my old Active 30 now so far. Did I dislodge some orientation mechanism for the better?

I replaced my 4 yr old Maytonocs Dolphin Active 30 last year because replacing the cord, brushes and other parts over time was going to add up even DIY. Since the extra Active 30 features turned out to be worthless and pretty much nonfunctional I went with the Active 20. But the Active 20 just...

What Texas Splash said. We have a similar size pool and also in Florida. This time of year I run my SWG (rated for a 40K pool) at 5-10% less than 8 hrs a day at most on a timer and some days I turn it off when the water is colder and less sunny and the Fc goes up. Our pool is more stable pH...

Hmmm. I don’t have a zinc anode in my light niche and this had not happened for the 4 yrs prior…. I do have a zinc anode plate in my skimmer. But maybe I should pull the light out and check things out?

I had to hire a pool service while we were out of town for 4-5 months this summer fall. The water looks OK but I now know they OD the acid once weekly to keep the pH under 8 for the week since monitoring for a couple weeks after getting back. Coincidentally or not, I noticed a blackish film...

Does it make sense to go ahead and install a new diverter valve key while I’m replacing the O-rings even if its not as likely a cause for an air leak.

Thanks. That’s helpful detail for sure.

I have had a suction side leak for awhile and have been getting more air blowing out of one return (the closest to pump) of two returns. I have looked at the pool school article on trying to diagnose suction side leaks, multiple threads and elsewhere but still haven’t nailed it. The Hayward...

Sorry late just saw this. Depending on location and because ladder accessibility was tough on one side: For some I mounted stainless steel diamond pad eye hook plates with sheet metal stainless screws and carabiners with pulleys...

I have an SWG. So unless I need to SLAM I dont have to supplement. But if I have trouble keeping up my stabilizer, especially when out of town, maybe tabs are worth considering since they also have CYA. Thanks.

Thanks much Chris and thanks for digging in on the logs (admittedly a bit incomplete at times). I use a 2006C Taylor test kit. As I mentioned it has been difficult to get the CYA up and holding. The CYA levels seem to drop at a rate much faster than the Salt level which leads me to believe it...

For a while now it seems like my CYA levels are dropping faster than expected, much faster than my salt levels drop (percentage) due to rain over flow. While out of town for 10 days the CYA dropped from 60 to 30 ppm while the salt level only dropped from 3400 to 3100. This CYA instability...

Our jets were installed about 11” apart center to center.

4 yrs ago our equipment/install on a new pool was about 8-9K. I have never seen a requirement for 12”. Our system is 6” pipe. It was borderline for 4-6 inches. Plenty of power.

Hi. @BriBry521. Our Badu 3 jet stream system has held up well for 3 1/2 yrs so far. No issues. The only thing seems to be that the pump motor mount base is prone to rust. I treated and painted those to prevent it from progressing. The main pool is about 10x28 but we also have a sunshelf...

That Hayward hasn’t already done this (something routinely simple) is telling…