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I have a pool built by Anthony Sylvan 35 years ago and this weir door fits the skimmer very well: Amazon.com One of my skimmers also serves a double purpose of skimming the pool surface and pulling water from the main drain; the diverter allows for adjusting the ratio between these two...

I agree. You need what @gkw4815 did: https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/any-hacks-for-a-remote-controlled-black-and-decker-pool-yet.251825/#post-2382027 If you decide to keep your new B&D, you can use it with the pump's control panel scheduling. Later you can consider installing...

Perhaps I didn't understand your intention, which is just collecting data as a basis to manually dial in your SWCG, right?

This is a very hard problem to solve - it's a case of predictive control but with no inside into the future. To have a shot at getting a usable solution, you would need to incorporate the weather forecast.

Where did you buy your B&D pump? At poolpartstogo.com? My pump turned noisy after a couple of weeks and they sent the replacement right away. The new pump doesn't have any problems. Are you sure that the pump automation adapter is wired for control scheme 1? The IN4 pin must not be connected...

I dont see an expansion joint between the coping and the deck.

This always works for me: If there is a slightest movement between the rail and the cup, the penetrating agent will get sucked into the gap and will lubricate the surfaces.

Why do you insist on having the cell powered from 120V instead of 240 ?

I had an incident several years ago where a herd of deer ran across my old cover. I repaired the cover, but after buying a new one two years later, started putting up a makeshift fence around the pool each year after closing. By now the population of deer in my neighborhood has shrinked...

Literally. First, you need to measure 3 times (at least) before you cut. But then, if you are not strong (powerful?) enough to adjust the components that you just glued together, and you have less than 10 seconds for that, your plumbing is screwed up.

You could do some testing to check how much AC current flows into the heater's controller when the gas is closed and how much when it's open. If there is a significant difference (let's say, at least 50mA), you can find a sensitive current sensor converting current to, for example, 0-10V...

When you blow out the return lines you are also blowing out the booster pump return pipe. Did you see air coming out?

If you can remotely login to pi and the services are running in memory, I doubt there is any problem with the pi or the SD card.

This is my Cyclone lid for Black&Decker VSP:

YW. Be careful when using a 2 1/2 inch hole saw. You can easily damage the lid. An alternative way is this:

SP1023 SPX1091Z7

I remember the yellow dread from the times before I found TFP. I hope it's not the mustard algea in your case... I never really got rid of it in 100%, until my pool got resurfaced and I started applying the TFP knowledge. But since you've already found this place, you will win the battle with...

SWCG is a complex device, with a switch mode DC power supply and control electronics. The reason we can turn it on and off by disconnecting AC power is that it has been designed that way, making integration with the pool easier.

You can’t remove the wires from the back of the lamp. They are an integral part of the lamp.

Finally we have a nice, warm weather here in New Jersey:

I forgot to mention that my Anthony’s skimmer is plumbed to the main drain as well. The 1 1/2 inch opening is threaded, so I plug it first, blow the suction pipe through the pump lid, close the Jandy valve and hope for the best - that the valve will hold the air lock through the winter.

How do you plug the skimmer itself? You disconnect the blower and quickly insert a plug into the pipe shown in the picture above?