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Well if I could, I wouldn’t. You’ve had your say. I also found this weird, that you would take the time to look at someone’s post history and then make assumptive comments. You have been a member for 11 years, you have 200 posts and 40 threads and you still don't get that a good test kit matters?

I've never said a good test kit doesn't matter. The pool has looked good for years. I've up until recently used the basic Leslies kit (that replaced the Taylor kit I had used) and along with Clorox Xtra Blue and chlorine pucks it's looked fine. Once the Leslies kit ran out I got some test strips...

Thanks for the response. It has crossed my mind that this just may be a symptom of aging plaster. I also notice that as I brush a white cloud is present and I'm sure that was not like that last year. At the moment I'm testing with Clorox multi strips. My Taylor kit is too old I think for...

Oh boy, what a read that was. I'm glad you at least got a resolution on getting the pool finished. That must have been a few sleepless nights there. All the best.

Folks, See Pic. Pool is covered in mostly 'sandy' colored discoloration. Some 'turquoise' shading also in areas. I can remove it by scraping....but...am I removing scale sitting on top of the plaster or the plaster itself? Either this has been going on year after year and has gotten so bad it's...

Well it was the bracket assy that holds half of the seal and bolts onto the motor. Dry as a bone. I have inspected the old one and no way can I see any damage to it. No cracks or damage I can see.

A bit more info. With the booster pump off but the main circulation pump running, the booster pump drips. It looks to me to be coming from somewhere up inside the area where the motor bracket assy joins the volute. I don't see the water coming from the back of the seal. If I turn booster on then...

Water is dribbling out (not dripping) from somewhere far back in the 12 o clock position inside the assembly that bolts to the motor. Basically the assy that contains the seal. I actually don't think it is coming from the seal itself but can't be sure. I'm going to pull the assy apart at...

In case this proves useful for anyone with the same issue I was able to fix the leak as follows. All very subjective but FWIW. The Praher unions have a gasket, which I removed and that revealed some additional thread area that I had not hit with the Plasto Joint Stik. Once those were attended to...

Folks, I've rebuilt the Pump housing plumbing and am very happy with the result so far. However....am getting a drip per 10 seconds from the Praher union to Front Housing connector, circled Orange in pic. More text after the pic. I'm also getting several other 'blobs' around the fitting but...

Got it thanks. I think that is the way I'd better go and get a coupler and cement that in. Thanks for the response, much appreciated.

Happy Boxing Day folks. I'd like to get your thoughts on this issue. I need to replace the pump front housing. It leaks, it's not fixable. I was hoping to unscrew the piping at the multiport valve, highlighted orange and put a complete new end to end run in. This is not an option. I fear the...

Agreed, but possibly using better components on the rebuild?

Yes, 4 years and it was grinding and squealing away. It's been powered off for 3 weeks. Came to power up and humming noise like run cap gone. Tried a known good run cap same thing, humming noise. Verified that timer switch supplying both phases. Pulled motor, shaft turns ok but for all I know...

So..on the pump housing? The original was: Challenger Pac-Fab 1 - HP 35-5460 CF11 N1-1A 1 -14-G99 34-3233 The original motor that lasted 15 years was: Magnatek P/N 10-186016-02 HP - 2.0 RPM 3450 Amps: 11.5 Volts 230 Y56Y Thanks

Anyone ever used a rebuilt motor from these guys? Thinking that a rebuilt USA option may be better than a new imported option. Motors are not rocket science they just need good components. https://www.perryspoolpump.com/product/2-hp-square-flange-pool-pump-motor/

Amps on mine are SF11.5 and SF is 1.30 It's not too clear on the attachment.

Folks, Can you help me out on this. Motor has gone and I'm not seeing a direct replacement. Attached is the motor label from my motor and also a screen shot of a potential replacement. I'm noting Ampere and SF differences. Are these enough to matter? Also not reading great things about AO Smith...

Thank you folks, all good info and food for thought. I have added the requisite pencil to the two other items listed and retired the sharpie. Whoever installed the original piping has it absolutly dead level. That is my target. We'll see how it goes. Thanks!

Soapy Water! yes I like it. Let me give that a try. Also thanks for the remaining tips and write up, especially the pencil as I was all set to use a sharpie. Thanks Very much appreciated!!

I'm no pro and do not have the same pumps as you....but...does that pump have a run capacitor? When my run caps fail, the pump breakers will trip. I have a spa pump that uses the same run cap so it is a 5 minute job to pull the spa run cap and put that into the pool pump. Happened yesterday, no...

Folks, I can dry fit about 1 inch into the various fittings. I note the inner seam ‘stop’ is at about 1.5 inches. So my question….. is the 1 inch sufficient if I cement at that? Thanks

Folks, Just FYI to be careful you are getting Pentair, or any other genuine part for that matter when on line ordering. Especially if the part is pricey and/or a bit of a pain to fit. I ordered a genuine Pentair front housing assy, credit card was billed 135USD. I received a CMP equivalent, they...