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Thanks, Jim. Installer charged the salt to pool and i did not check it while awaiting my Taylor test kit. Green light indicated acceptable salt level until yesterday, although they may have shorted the charge by a bit. I would not be surprised. Good chance sensor is malfunctioning, so I will...

Also need to add that installers wired the power supply so that it does not shut down when pump goes off (i.e., it remains powered, but cell stops producing due to no flow). Is this a potential problem/cause of the malfunction?

New SWG Pentair IChlor-30 in my 20,000 gal. pool. Everything has been fine up until now, but unit suddenly shut down due to low salt (flashing red light indicates <2000 ppm salt level). Did a complete analysis two days ago and everything seemed fine: pH 7.5 FC 6.5...

Yes, that will be the plan. It is covered and locked while we are not here. Plan is to be here through the pandemic scare and then alternating weeks. We have never really had any trouble with the tub, so I'm not overly concerned. Now I just need to replace the liner in my pool and I'm set...

No film or indication of any contamination. Looks crystal clear. Has not been used, so I will balance and shock and take over th maintenance while I am here. Sorry for my spa guys to lose the business, but since I am at the house for the duration I really should be doing it myself. Thanks...

Thanks for the reply. No ozonator. Cool with balance and shock. Probably go with bromine to account for times when house in unoccupied (although I do not anticipate leaving here before the end of the summer).

Greetings, all. It's been some time since I have posted on any forum, mostly because my pool has been "trouble-free" thanks to this website. I am now dealing with the hot tub at my vacation home in PA, where I am isolated due to the virus. My usual service guys are prevented from working due...

You are a sturdier soul than I if you plan to swim until the end of September in Green Bay! On a serious note, as a Baquacil convert, I like Leebo's suggestion. Cleaning the pool using the Baqua system is an exercise in futility. Converting to the TFP method will take some time and be a...

Thanks. I expect it will be my next enhancement.

If anyone has experience with this Hayward needle valve, I would like to know before buying one. I also find the current valve difficult to adjust. In addition, it restricts flow to a little over 4 (out of 5) on the rotometer scale. I would have thought they would give you a valve that allows...

The 3/8" upgrade kit from PST Pool Supplies (available through Amazon) includes check valves and they seem just fine. You can get the upgrade kit as a stand-alone if you have not included it in your original order @...

For anyone following this post, I think I have the answer from another thread. I am going to stick with the manual dosing numbers to remain entirely safe, as this is the general recommendation among knowledgable folks. So, the liquidator is useful, but in my 20,000 gal. pool (a lot of sunshine...

Thanks. I had the same question posted elsewhere. I will make appropriate adjustments in order to get back to the manual dosing target. I don't really mind making manual adjustments if they are necessary when the LQ can't quite keep up. As we say trouble free does not mean maintenance free...

My pump is single speed, but I can afford to run it a little longer each day. I have been reviewing posts on target FC/CYA range for pools using SWG, which, of course, are different than manual addition BBB. The reasoning for lower FC (and higher CYA) is the continuous nature of the FC...

Try County Line. Tell Marty I recommended them. 12.5% is most convenient. Just be careful handling the full jug - I have a bleached out pair of Crocs as evidence!

OCLT is fine; less than 0.5 ppm. I use 12.5 % bleach. Bleach usage is pretty much as I would have calculated. (By the way - JohnN in Howell - County Line Hardware in Jackson has 5 gal. 12.5% bleach for about $16) No kinks; no blockages and "yes", I can jack up the flow to max (5) on the...

I have been using BBB for several years and have been entirely satisfied with the results. I generally follow the simplified FC/CYA chart and do an OTO test and chlorine addition each evening to adjust to the recommended target or slightly above. Depending on sun and bather load, I stay above...

Go for it! Follow the instructions on this forum and keep us posted (this is my favorite subject!). I made the conversion about four years ago after 10years on Baq. I now use BBB and have never regretted it for a minute. (And at $3/gal. for 12.5% bleach make sure you keep that dealer on speed...

I had all the same concerns when I switched to the BBB method. I was so concerned about the apparent subjectivity of the test that I was ready to go out and buy an expensive laboratory instrument to measure turbidity. Then, as I became more experienced I found my results to become more...

To add to your confidence, my story is the same as Pepsiholic. I am a converted Baquaciloholic (sorry about that) and have been using the BBB method for two trouble-free years. I have three beautiful grandchildren and they swim in my pool at the free chlorine levels posted in Pool School...

I encourage you to switch and wish you the best. It will work! An alternative method I used last year is as follows: Starting with a relatively algae-free pool, I stopped Baq additions about Aug. 15. Letting the Baq gradually decompose to zero level, we also stopped using the pool (no kids...

Sand is not better, it is presumed to be easier. DE filters particles down to about 1-2 micron (millionths of an inch). The most acute human vision can see particles only down to about 5 micron. Sand filters down to about 10 micron (at best). Therefore, DE filtration is better (more...

Pretty complete. The flaw I see is that there is no published relationship between CYA level and required FC. The recommended FC levels are are essentially fixed. There is a recommended 100 ppm max for CYA buried in a table, but no reference to the continued build-up of CYA resulting from the...

Obviously this test is subjective, but it is usually good enough for day to day readings. Get the TF-100 full test kit (there's a link in Pool School and many other places on this site) and use it every week to get accurate FC (and other readings). I have also "calibrated" my eyes against the...

If anyone knows what the test principle of the specialty tester is I would be interested. As I said, I have access to some sophisticated labs, but mostly I'm just interested. A web link might be helpful.

BBB working great so far after Spring Baquacil conversion but I am a little concerned about getting accurate CYA readings. The test is so critical to proper treatment yet it is so subjective. Today I did my normal Saturday am readings and got an initial result of between 50-60. Last week I...

You will have to explain what you mean by "chlorine" and do you mean 99 cents per gallon? Bleach is sodium hyochlorite solution, the most readily available source of chlorine. It comes in several strengths (5.25%, 6%, 10%, 12.5%) and is sold as Clorox, other brands of household bleach, Liquid...

So, since FC losses not due to sunlight are not related to CYA level, but are relatively fixed (assuming bather load and other conditions remain steady) you will see that the higher the non-sunlight loss is, the more independent of CYA level FC loss becomes. What it all comes down to is that...

If you really want to impress your wife and FIL, find a hardware store or pool outlet that sells 5-gallon containers (carboys) of 12.5% sodium hypochlorite. I have found this to be the cheapest source of chlorine, beating WalMart by about 10% per equivalent amount. And nobody can accuse you of...

I agree that you need some granular CYA added as advised by Reindeerboy. I am winging it, but pucks are around 7 oz. and are about 55% CYA by weight. Therefore each puck adds about .25 lb CYA (give or take) per week. Not sure of your pool volume, but if it's 4 ft. deep its around 6000 gal. or...