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I have been using a 2 speed AO Smith motor on a Hayward Superpump body for about two years now, and the other day it stopped running. It will spin up on the high speed terminal, then slowly reduce in speed, then click off (thermal cutoff?). Connecting power to the low speed terminal, the pump...

Re: Let the lynching begin - Used copper algaecide and I lik All things in moderation. I spent a few years using nothing but bleach, trichlor, muriatic acid, salt, and Borax. It took responsible judicious use of the copper to keep the MA away.

Re: Let the lynching begin - Used copper algaecide and I lik It has been a month and a half now, with no signs of mustard algae returning. This is the longest I have ever gone without any signs. No ill effects either, no staining, no green hair. No additional copper has been added. I've even...

Re: Let the lynching begin - Used copper algaecide and I lik Between the slow leak(s?) in my pool, high levels of splash out, and possibly the degradation due to sunlighthttp://www.troublefreepool.com/degradation-of-cyanuric-acid-cya-t8880.html my CYA levels don't stay high for long. I can lose...

Re: Let the lynching begin - Used copper algaecide and I lik Feel free to come play with my pool chemistry! Shocking to 50ppm *will* kill the mustard algae, and it stays gone until the water is refilled, or there is heavy rain. Within a day or two of either of these things happening, the MA is...

Re: Let the lynching begin - Used copper algaecide and I lik I'd gladly take stained gunite over algae covered gunite :-) Seriously, this was an act of desperation. Keeping chlorine between 15-20ppm with cya at 60-80 wasn't enough to keep the mustard algae at bay.

I've been managing my pool for a few years now, and have always been struggling with mustard algae. I can scrub and shock to 50+ppm, and it will all go away, until it rains or I have to refill the pool with tap water. I live in a tropical climate, and the fill water is well sourced. I know for a...

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/quick-rep ... tings.html

Personally - I consider it a nuisance. My pool is kept at 10+ FC, usually at 15FC, 16k gallons, DE filter, SWG, CYA between 60 -80. Mustard algae refuses to go away. I can shock the pool to 40+ FC and keep it there for a week, and its all gone, but will be back within a week or two of FC levels...

Recently I replaced my 3/4 HP single speed motor with an AO Smith two speed 3/4HP motor on my Hayward Superpump. I noticed that the new motor was running hotter than I expected, after looking at the wet end closer, it is a 1HP wet end, with presumably, a 1HP impeller. The service factor on the...

I've had the same issue, CYA just vanishes, and does so faster than the salt. My pool is fine otherwise, always clear.

My experience with this unit (going on close to a year now I think) is that the salinity level is all over the map, depending on temperature and the amount of scaling on the cell. There is no real flow sensor or salinity sensor. That being said, it always puts out chlorine, and I just live with...

My CircuPool unit works just fine. Been using it for close to a year now. Only had to clean it once over the winter when I neglected the pool and let the ph drift too high for too long.

Just a personal observation, but it seems that I lose more water during dry windy periods, than during hot, humid, still days.

Keep in mind that the cable carries very high DC amperage, so your connections need to be made well. Soldering is a must, and watch for heat around the joint after you hook it back up. It is very doable, just bear that in mind.

UPDATE: Re: Mustard Algae? It has been about a month since the shocking, and the mustard algae has stayed gone. The water temps have also dropped by almost 10*F, so that certainly doesn't hurt. I have been keeping the FC levels between 8 and 10, with a CYA of 60. The chlorine demand has dropped...

I have purchased here, and everything went fine. Their prices seem a bit high, you can usually find lower if you shop around. The upside is that they have a good selection, and most stuff is in stock.

Muriatic acid in a spray bottle diluted 5:1 works great. If it keeps coming back, it sounds like your Ph/TA is too high. Can you post full test results? Have you run your numbers through the pool calculator?

What is under the tape?

I have been having the same issue. Mustard Algae coming back after lots of scrubbing and shocking. I just got done with a four day Mustard Algae shock, no signs of any. I'm waiting to see what if anything grows. Like you, I was keeping my FC levels around 10 with a CYA of 60ish, and seemingly...

I've taken a second attempt at killing this mustard algae. My CYA level drifted down to 40, so since I had to add some CYA anyway, I decided to use up some of the granulated trichlor I have. On Thursday night I brought the FC up to 35 with trichlor/bleach, and the SWG on superchlorinate. The...

My fill water has has a very high Ph and TA (8+/250+) so combined with a SWG, I am constantly adding acid to keep things in balance. I see there are a number of cheap Ph meters/controllers on eBay, marketed for the aquarium market. Would these reliably report Ph from pool water, with all the...

The CH test does seem to be troublesome. I have the same "fading endpoint" problem where the water changes to a purple color, and then gradually shifts to blue, so it is hard to call which drop is the final drop.

Tried Loctite on the dogs? I've never seen that happening. Could there be oil or grease on the rotating disk?

What happens if you continue adding reagent after the water turns clear?

Nassau, Bahamas. Pretty sure it wouldn't be cost effective to transport your RO kit here, but you are welcome to try.

What pressure is that filter running at? A severely clogged filter will run at a very high pressure and be more likely to leak than a healthy one.

Unfortunately my fill water has a CH of 650 or so, and a Ph somewhere north of 8. The shower heads in the house need a CLR soaking every few months to keep flowing. I drain a few inches from the pool before we get rain to try and lower the CH ever chance I get. My Ph likes to hang out around 7.8...

Any time I scrub my pool with a stainless brush, it kicks up clouds in to the water. When I am finished, the entire pool is cloudy. After a few hours the water is crystal clear again. Is this calcium scaling getting scraped off of the walls? Am I damaging the plaster? My CH is somewhere between...

Video from CircuPool showing their cell being disassembled without a flow switch. [youtube:3vlpik2r]cmdk7sWtz1E[/youtube:3vlpik2r]