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The TA is a little low, but Higher TA will drive the pH up faster. And the lower the pH, the faster it wants to rise. There is really no reason to try to keep the pH at 7.6 and there is nothing wrong with letting the pH sit at 8 or so.

I had to log in just to see how your drainage was holding up :) Buddy lives down by you and said Sahuarita was passable. I imagine he went over to Old Nogales and north.

What do you mean go to TFP? We don't have a store. Did you mean tftestkits.net?

You should not need a check valve between the heater and SWG. If you are going to add solar, then I would put the flo vis right after the filter which is where you will need one for the solar. That is where I put mine.

The sight glass on my filter is removable so I can clean it. It only sees water when backwashing, so the stale water sitting in it will allow algae to grow. Not sure if the Intex is similar, if so, just remove it and clean it out.

If you don't have automation system on the spa equipment, then there would be no need to match brands for the swg

The slope from the pool to the drain would not need to change to maintain the same drainage. They would just need to raise the drain up a few inches further from the house. But the other impact is how that would then interface with whatever patio is going to be part of the covered area. So the...

You can't remove the system completely without destroying the pool. Do you have a separate set of wall returns that are not part of the Caretaker system? I always recommend having this loop for reasons just like this. If you do not, then you do not have much choice but to get the caretaker...

I would go with a SWG on the spa as well. I assume it is sitting out and exposed to the sun just like the pool? Perhaps look at some of the smaller SWGs for AG pools? You can go large on the cell and just run at a very low output.

I agree with the others. Would suggest a deep cleaning of the tub and then stick with the Dichlor / Bleach method and avoid the Bromine from the start. You can't just switch from bromine to chlorine without a full water replacement...

You can use them next spring, but they will have lost some of their strength. So, be sure to test after adding to be sure you hit your targets. Just keep them in the dark cool garage.

There is no recommended strength for the bleach. Use whatever gives you best $ / oz of chlorine. I suggest you start using the app and in it there is a calculator to allow comparison shopping of different strengths. Just be sure there are no additives in it if you use household bleach. The...

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! If your TA is truly 0, then your pH is down in the 4s. At this point you likely just need to follow their instructions.

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! First, high phosphates are not the cause of your algae, low chlorine is the problem relative to your CYA. See 1. Algaecides are more for prevention of algae (although not needed at all if you maintain proper chlorine levels) and will not do much to get rid of algae...

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

Using a skimmer collar and cover seems like a very clever solution to me. One you build the bar, that would be hidden underneath anyway I imagine. There may be other in-deck options that are a little smaller diameter out there, but would have to go searching around.

Forget the digital tester. Have you completed the SLAM process and no longer see any CC? Does not matter if your CYA is 10 or 15 ... you should likely add about 30ppm more to get you up toward 50ppm given your location. Then retest so it is actually on the scale. ;) You can save yourself some...

Just a minor correction, the tablets are very acidic which results in a local low pH when the pump is off. This acidic water making it back to the heater can erode the copper tubes. I agree that the Jandy Neverlube should work. Or ditch the tablet feeder and forget about the check valve and...

You can also share all your logs which will show up as a link in your forum profile.

I don't know. @JoyfulNoise ?

Yes DE could help if it is just a slow filter issue.

Your chlorine has certainly lost some strength. But you could tell that by measuring the FC level 30 minutes or so after you add to a specific Target. It should not matter if you have the solar heater running or not.

I would expect you to lose approximately the same percentage of your chlorine to the Sun regardless of your starting level. So if you start at 10:50 p.m. I would expect you to lose 5 PPM. Less Sun would also mean less losses and a cover would also lower your losses to the Sun.

Leslie's sells 10% in one gallon containers around here

What is your CYA level? If you are to the cloudy stage, then there may not be much for the chlorine to kill and just need filtration. So, keeping the high FC might just be resulting in massive losses to the sun. I might suggest trying the OCLT and if you are only losing a few ppm, to back off...

If the chlorine is being consumed, it must be doing something

Ask them what parts of the equipment have calcium in them that they need to protect .... :hammer:

There was one time poured it on them and their friends during a birthday party while all the other parents looked on in horror, not knowing what it was :D And yes it does get pretty cold as it dissolves.

I dump the salt on my kid's heads while they are swimming ... they are always asking me to add more salt, but it just does not need it :LOL:

No it is not required. Just may have to go very big on the SWG to keep the run time shorter. You could switch your motor to a 2 speed and get a lot of the electrical savings too.