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that's just brilliant! thanks for the idea... and thanks to all for the replies--time to order the IC40 cell...

Hello everyone! Haven't posted for a while, since our pool has been running "Trouble Free" for a few years. Approaching 7 years on our original equipment, so I was looking at picking up a replacement salt cell for the inevitable failure. Can I use an IC40 replacement cell in my system? Cost is...

13k gallon pool, with SWG. I usually drain below the skimmer level in the fall when closing, then refill with either rainwater or municipal water in the spring when opening. This always leaves me with a bit of a CYA deficit (usually aim for CYA of around 60-70). Does anyone use pucks in the...

Hi All! Thank you for our second season of trouble free pool care. So happy I found this site when our install was taking place. Water has been absolutely sparkling for two solid seasons. WooHoo!!! As I'm preparing to close in the next couple weeks, I pulled my filter apart today and hosed off...

Mr. Carson. Named after the Downton Abbey butler. That's what happens when you binge watch things on Netflix or Prime.

i have a very similar pool (viking coronado--13k gallons). get yourself the TFT-100 with salt drop kit and speedstir. read through pool school and take ownership of your own water chemistry. it's a lot easier than most people think. and nobody cares more about your pool water than you yourself...

i opened april 12 to crystal clear water here in southeast PA. 3 of my neighbors yet to open--curious to see what their water looks like once covers are off.

+1 on the SpeedStir. Probably the most useful addition to the test equipment out there. Also, I use a turkey baster from the dollar store for obtaining my water samples. Squeeze the bulb, submerge to arm length, and let it fill. Very easy to dribble into the test vials to the appropriate volumes.

yes, because pH readings can be unreliable once FC gets much above 10.

Same here. Second season with our new fiberglass pool. I'm so happy I stumbled upon this site during the build process, and have known nothing but crystal clear water. I probably test more than I need to, but who doesn't love chemistry???

most likely it's to align with the pH of 7.4 of the human body (especially the eyes and mucous membranes).

sorry, i didn't answer your initial question. yes, dichlor would be fine to use to raise your FC, but recognize that you will be adding small amounts of cyanuric acid (CYA) with each dose. it's probably ok for now if your CYA level is really 10. i'm pretty sure dissolving dichlor in a bucket...

good for you! i'm kind of new to this pool thing as well, but thanks to some of the very knowledgeable people around here i feel very confident testing and taking care of my own water. it's really funny when you discuss this with people who rely on the "pool store" or their "pool guy" and still...

Recommended Levels Vinyl with Bleach FC 3-7 (See chart) pH 7.2-7.8 TA 50-90+ CH 0-350 (Don't add) CYA 30-50 with SWG FC 3-5 (See chart) pH 7.2-7.8 TA 60-80 CH 0-300 (Don't add) CYA 70-80 Plaster with Bleach FC 3-7 (See chart) pH 7.2-7.8 TA 70-90+ CH 250-350 CYA 30-50 with SWG FC 3-5...

Re: Need to shock. CYA is 10. Ok to use di-chlor? i'm sure some of the regulars will chime in here any minute, but i'd strongly suggest going to the "pool school" tab and reading up on water chemistry. the fundamentals of the TFP method are only to add chemicals that you know the ingredients...

i don't add polyquat or make any chlorine additions through the winter either. FC around 20 and closed in late october with water temp below 60, opened last week with temps in the high 50s. crystal clear water both years upon opening. i would fix the cover to keep debris out if possible.

My IC40 threshold is around 900rpm with my Pentair Intelliflo pump. I usually run mine at 1200rpm just so I know I'm safely above the threshold. There might be some variations with flow based on plumbing configuration.

Done. And thanks again for all the help and information.

Closed in October (solid safety cover) with the water temp around 55F by adding my remaining 2 gallons of 10% bleach. Just opened this week to a water temp of 50F, after following the TFP method last year with our new fiberglass pool. Many thanks to the moderators and all the contributors here...

No solar on mine detailed above. Sorry.

i'm running mine at 1400 for 10 hrs/day. my flow threshold for running the SWG and heat pump are 1300, so i bumped up my run speed a little to ensure those items are not shut down by their low-flow sensors. filter pressure reads "0" at this speed. i check filter pressure at 2300 rpm--and will...

Jim, Thanks for the reply. It seems that only the SWG is wired through the mechanical timer, so I guess I'll keep the SWG on the timer--given the risk of generating Hydrogen and Chlorine gases. Does anyone know if there is risk to the Heat Pump by using the flow switch as its sole on/off switch?

Hi All, New pool installed last fall, opened this spring. PB installed an IntellifloVS pump at my request. When the electrician wired the panel, he ran the pump off its own breaker. The SWG and HeatPump are both connected to the Intermatic mechanical timer supplied in the breaker box. I...

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Yes, you need a test kit. Get one of the ones recommended in "pool school" and you should be set for the season. Post up your numbers once you start testing and the friendly folks here will help guide you along the learning process. It's really not that hard...

i'd use a submersible pump and a hose.

^^^^that's pretty funny...

So I started this season opening with my TA=150. Over the last 2 days, I have been incrementally adding Muriatic Acid to bring the pH down to 7.0-7.2, then aerating with my tile-line fountain jets. After my last addition of acid, I have a pH of 7.2 and TA=110. I'm planning to continue until my...

LOL. Great point. Somehow swimming in the lake or ocean never crossed my mind. I prefer it warmer too, but I don't think my labrador will mind the temps much!!!