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You need to add a check valve on the suction side of the infinity edge. Sounds like the water from the pool is going back through the main drains on Infinity.

Don't take the screws off. It should unscrew, may take some extra help from some channel locks

Is your gas valve on inside heater? If yes Check the injectors and make sure they are not clogged with cob webs.

Honestly I don't see to many plumbed in that way in ky. In used to blow through it and have a rubber plug ready and remove the blower at the same time plugging it as fast I could. That worked but I wanted a more secure way of doing it.

I make a temp valve out of pvc that can screw into the port inside the skimmer. I tried this last year on a customers pool and worked really good. Make sure you thread tape the threaded piece that you screw into skimmer

No I never take them out. Just get a 2'×2' square and should cover it pretty easy Or if it's just a little pvc sticking out take a sawzall and cut as much off as you can. Or even a angle grinder

My new guess would be the light niche or conduit that the wires run through

Sounds like we found the culprit!

How many gallons is the pool? one thing in have found with the Hayward salt system if you get the salt level to high. It will freak the system out and cause it to read low. And you know it's higher then that. If you have a local pool store, you may want to take a sample in and let them test it...

Check and make sure the "cell type" setting is correct. Press the diagnostic button untill you will see one of the following t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15. Yours should be on t-15

Just did this one today! "waste" has you going in the right direction. Just take your time going through the pavers and I like to use a smaller pilot hole also and keep my bits wet to keep the pavers from breaking.

Which means when blowing out the main drain, after you see the bubbles coming out you turn the valve to turn the main drain off. This airlocks the drain

So when you go full skimmer that will shut your main drain off.

I'm surprised it would be evaporating through a solid cover. Are you sure you don't have a leak?

If you can post a pic of the valve.

Just depends on what amount of dirt and debris you get. But for 3 months, looks pretty normal.

I would check with the contract and or contractor who did the work. I like to have the pH leveled out before I close my customers. But there are other company's who believe 1 month is ok.

I would plug all the lines then see if it still leaks and get them out of the equation. Make sure there isn't any grout and or missing tiles anywhere around the pool/spa. One place to check really good is in the skimmer opening where the tiles meet the skimmer weir. Make sure no grout has come off.

Before you get into totally removing the exchanger. You may want to try just removing the headers and see if you can see any build up inside. The headers are where you pvc connect to the heater btw. They are connected by some nuts I believe they are 12 mm. I personally have never had this issue...

So you did plug the lines during the test or didnt? Is this pool a vinyl liner? Concrete? Fiberglass?

What I have done in the past is go buy a $15 piece of sheet stainless steel from Lowes and put it over the hole. That way it's at least has a hard surface behind it so nothing can puncture it or risk of it ripping. I usually just duck tape it with some strong tape.

I would ask for the reason. What type of filter is on the pool now? Parts could be expensive or discontinued Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

Akelley is correct and will not be able to purchase the m series line for dolphin online. I would be very surprised that a local place wouldn't order one for you being it's a good sale. May ask Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

The switches on the back of the valves are not working. When I first arrived the suction valve wasn't working. Then I flipped the switch on the return side and it moved. But when I tried switching it back nothing happened. Now both are not doing anything. Are there fuses inside anywhere that...

I'm having issues with a customers valve actuators( there are 2) not working. I have tried the manual switch and still does not work. I checked the wires as well and they seem good. They both stopped at the same time so it would be hard for me to believe they both got broken wires at the same...

I would check on the compliance for the main drain. Check with you local home inspector. I know he in Kentucky the only people that have to be VGB compliant are commercial propertys. Also there are VGB compliant drain covers that can go over the existing drain. You probably wouldn't fill any...

Make sure your setting in the board is set for the correct cell you have. Check this by hitting the diagnostic button until it will say T-cell type. To change the cell type, while it's at the cell type setting on board simply switch board to super chlorinate then go back down to auto and it will...

Yes between the 3 way valve and the intake of the pump. If you could T off between there and put a ball valve where you could shut the vac line on and off. I think that would be the best way.

Is there enough room where you could T after the 3 way valve and plumb in another valve for the vac line? Need about 6 inches just enough to fit a T

I personally don't like 3 way valves. I would plumb vac line, skimmer, and main drain on there own ball valve.