Search results

When I dumped salt and left it on the bottom with only the return jet agitating the water I think it took 3 days total to dissolve.

That's unfortunate. I would risk it and put that back together if it was my pool. But that's acknowledging that there's a risk there. I would guess that the liner would be more likely to bulge through the corrode part and pop a major leak, rather than tear the whole wall open. Edit: Actually...

Doughboy operates a pretty tight dealer model so I think you'd have to find your local dealer to get genuine parts. Otherwise you could try Inyo, I don't think they are a doughboy dealer but they might have a generic replacement part that would fit.

I have the same experience as you OP - blue cover on all the time works great. So that's what I keep doing. I don't have the same experience on longevity! I get a new one every year. On daytime covering, I have some thoughts. My experience is the same as others that night time covering is more...

PH is still 7.0-7.2 and I'm close to losing my resolve not to add soda ash. Still waiting to see, it should surely rise right. Of course as soon as I add it will start rising.

Just to make sure this part is clear: the center hands line up with the inside 12 hour clock numbers. The outside numbers are the 24h clock of the timer, and will not line up with the clock hands.

The pool wall is steel, as confirmed in the wall components breakdown posted by OP.

I would remove all the top hardware (rails/caps/tracks) and see if I could pop that back up, and then probably add a supporting structure for the skimmer since the wall's compromised. Then reassemble top hardware if it worked. But I am willing to take more risks with my AGP than most people.

Is the wall of your pool resin or steel? That looks like steel to me. But I haven't seen a lot of closeup pictures of what a true resin pool wall looks like. A lot of pools are sold as "resin pools" although they only have resin components, not a resin wall. If the wall is rust free I would try...

Edit: Nvm, wrong answer

My bestway came with stoppers like this: https://www.amazon.com/Xyoc-Replacement-Swimming-Strainer-Stopper/dp/B07NLBM3GZ/ Although mine were a pliable material and the amazon ones look like plastic which wouldn't work as well.

I'm not super clear on the block arrangement but I think you have a problem. The blocks are for leveling purposes only and should not provide structural support to the pool wall. The pool wall should sit with as close to perfectly even pressure all the way around on what it's sitting on, that...

These bags are all over the bay area cause I got mine down in Campbell. I might go back there to check but I would bet they haven't done anything about it.

Everyone will agree digging the high side is better. I built up a low side against better advice, and it has not sunk in my very sandy (not very clay) soil. I actually built it up slightly higher because everyone said it would sink but it hasn't. This is not a comment supporting filling a low...

Yes I would. The easiest way may be modding an above ground skimmer and return kit onto the pool. I think you lose a bit of water level though because the skimmer sits low. If you adapt that pump onto the existing ports make sure you create a Y hose and use double suction. It's a dangerous...

Extra bag is a good idea 👍

7 in the morning, 7 at night! My single speed pump runs solar heating hours, which happens to align logically with chlorinating hours. Slightly miss being able to do a quick check with a k-1001 DPD though, as worked well when I was targeting 3-5ppm.

We got a lot of rain this winter so my water is unusual. Fill water is 220-250 alk and calcium which makes me resistant to fixing this ph right away with soda ash cause I think I'm gonna have trouble keeping alk down if anything this season. 7 chlorine 7.0 ph 80 cya 60 alkalinity 120 calcium...

Are you just rejecting the over simplification or describing a difference that results from the electrolysis products not being separated as they are in factory? >Electrolysis of aqueous NaCl solutions gives a mixture of hydrogen and chlorine gas and an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution...

It's a set of two electrolytic plates that split salt into chlorine, lye, and hydrogen. This is the same way that chlorine is made from salt in a liquid chlorine plant, but they separate the lye out. So it's like a mini chlorine factory, only the lye stays in the pool which affects the ph.

Confusingly, Circupool sells an RJ series which are not the same as an Aquatrol RJ. I can't tell if Circupool RJ's have a no flow switch return jet mode, but as far as I can tell they all come with a flow switch by default.

I would get something like this with a $500 budget. https://www.doheny.com/harris-h1572228-vortex-sand-filter-system-16-in-tank-with-3-4-hp-pump You might be inclined to go for the 1HP but I can tell you I did and I ended up replacing it with a 3/4HP for energy savings. You probably want to...

This stuff's all over California probably, I got mine in Campbell so I don't think this was just a few bad bags.

I bought a new in box one off Craigslist because retail price wasn't a sure payoff. Comes with risk of course, probably no manufacturer warranty. But I just checked my area and there is a clean looking NIB IC40 for $650 here.

I'll be curious for updates on the stain, maybe a vitamin c tablet test. If it's pacific sea salt as I assume there shouldn't be any reason for iron contamination unless maybe they had ground water intrusion in the evap ponds.

I must've got the same batch. If it's any consolation I also saw the brown salt and thought huh oh well, threw a chunk in and saw the brown cloud and still thought huh oh well. It being Morton brand and labeled for pools I guess I was confident it couldn't be bad. Mine was only one bag though...

Yeah that's what I mean, corrugated hose.

That's a good idea but I mean a horizontal support for the SWG. I don't feel like hard plumbing my flex lines which are rubber kind and lay on the ground. @Ahultin no automation solar stays manually on and I only run pump 10-4. So purge air only happens when it turns on at 10. I have a section...

Another idea, maybe the winner: Put the flow switch mid line in the flex return from solar, horizontally. Maybe lying on the ground but at least it's a cheaper part than the cell.

In my experience when I have thought that not green cloudiness was either not algae or dead algae, it was actually still living algae. Not blooming, but still alive. You don't have to take my word for it though.