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Your fc is within range, so that good. If you can test it about an hour after the SWG shuts off. If it is still at the low end of your range, dose it up to the high end of your range. Keep monitoring it. Maybe you need a bigger dose of chlorine after you soak or maybe you need to run the SWG...

Not bad Don't worry about the PH. It's very close. I'm sure it will rise. Keep checking it when you check FC. Your FC is in range, but keep an eye on it. Your CYA lost 20. That's a lot to lose? Are you sure about this measurement? It's a tough test to read. That will lower your FC range.

Maybe your SWG is working now! Keep testing every few hours. As much as you can. Then you will know if you can lower the pump run times or have to raise them.

I would bet it's your high(for spa) TA. I ran that roller coaster too. Chasing PH down and TA up. Now I get TA to 50 on fill and then adjust PH as needed. I just check it monthly to make sure it's not under 30. I pay little attention to it.

I was exactly where you are almost a year ago. My pool was so easy using the TFP method. Then I got my spa and I thought a lot less water, it's going to be just as easy. Nope. Aggravated me every other day. Eventually I learned more and more and got the hang of it. There is light at the end of...

Don't bother with salt, TA, or CH for awhile. Just concentrate on PH and FC. Baby steps, you will get it

Just Aerate, .2 is not that bad. What is the fc?

No it doesn't. Maybe the SWG bumped it up. Like you had said

The guess strips are just that. The dpd test is more accurate. 9 is fine. A little over your range, but it will come down on its own nothing too worry about. Do you know how much chlorine your SWG is supposed to generate?

8 is on the high end of your range. That's prefect. CH is another thing that won't have much change. Get it in range and test 1x /month

You're welcome, I share the knowledge I learned here. With that, you have to take it all and try things out. Some things will work for you and some will not. Shocking to 12 is good for him because his cya is 30. Yours is 50? That will make your slam go to 20 The other thing is to NEVER let...

Y are you shocking it? I only do that if there is something going on? You really just want to keep it in range. Adding chlorine after heavy bather load is more of a maintenence thing. Don't go in if the FC is over 10. And just my 2¢, I would add the chlorine after the soak, but b4.

To raise your FC 1ppm multiply the number of gallons in the spa, such as: 350 x 0.00013 That will give you 0.0455 ounces or 1.2899033 grams. I think the smaller one would be fine. It makes 1.25g/hr of run time.

Get your PH in range, then test your TA, as long as it's in there, don't concern yourself to much with the number. I'm happy with at least 30, but not less than that. I'll check that monthly

Don't worry so much about raising the PH, once you get it under control it will need minimal adjustments, once in a blue. I find I get it right at startup and maybe one more adjustment before my next drain and fill. Try to test fc and pH as much as possible (every couple of hours) and keep a...

Salt will not go anywhere. It only comes out with a drain or splash out. You can test that monthly Your TA at 80 can be causing the wild PH swings. What I do and I know works for others is get it to 50 and then use dry acid or muriatic acid to lower it. I shoot for 7.4. As long as it's in range...

My SWG was brand new. My spa was brand new, but it was a floor model. I bought it at the end of the summer season and got a good deal on it. Not sure about the used market

Yup I did a write up of the install here : Salt water bromine generator install

Did you get the Taylor test kit with the dpd drop test? That is the most accurate test and while your learning and trying to get a handle on it, only use that.

It just takes some getting used to. I would get frustrated when I started also. if the SWG is not running that will DEFINITELY cause your FC to be running low and that can throw everything off. Can you please post all your latest numbers again?

Everyone makes mistakes. Have them come back and verify that it has been connected to the wrong pump.

Oh and don't forget ahh-some. You must treat any new spa with it and then at least twice a year after that! It gets rid of the biofilm that attaches itself to the plumbing of your spa (even brand new).

1 get a SWG. Mine is Bromine. 2. Do not chase TA. Get it to 50 on startup and then forget about it 3. Baby steps. Until you really know your spa, Whatever pool math says cut it in half and retest.

Now you can power up the SWG and set the power level to 6. Test and adjust up or down every 24 hours to maintain 3-5ppm bromine. Soak and enjoy! It took about 2 hours from start to finish for the install.

Balance your chemicals. I use the following: TA 50 PH 7.2-7.6 CH 150-200 Next add 1.2 lbs of sodium bromide per 100 gallons of water in your spa. My spa used 4lbs 12 oz Sodium bromide 1300-1500 ppm with a target of 1450ppm Test strips are also included with the kit. I used Sodium Bromide...

Test for phosphates (the test is included with the SWG). You do not want them with this set up. They will eat the bromine. Phosphates 0-30 PPB

Now connect the power from the SWG to the 24 hour circulator pump power that was identified earlier. Refill the spa and turn the power back on. Leave the SWG off.

This unit comes with a top side controller to adjust the swbg. I mounted it on the top of the cabinet, right under the acrylic shell

Disconnect power and verify that it is OFF. With Power OFF: Drain it, clean it, and soak the filters! Cut the plumbing and insert the SWG. for this model, the electrode must be installed vertically. Mount the junction box, this also must be installed vertically

Now I'm going to use ahh-some to clean it before I drain it. Not to much yellow gook this time. That's a good thing [emoji41]