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If it was floating around I don't think it was dead. I have SLAM for several days on a nearly clear pool. I suspect you aren't done yet. Once the SLAM is working the sand filter will be good enough. And if it were me I would raise to 20 for good measure.

I'm not sure about raising CYA before SLAM. I always did it the other way around cause it takes less chlorine to get to SLAM before adding CYA.

Ok this is bordering on an unnecessary question that I should just figure out but anyway it's on my mind so why not share it. I have an Aquatrol HP designed for mid plumbing install with an included flow switch. I could buy the RJ adapter to have the SWCG on my return jet which has the...

@JamesW Thanks yeah I didn't even think about that but when the pool's 90 return water temp from the solar might indeed be over 100.

First year with my aquatrol, haven't fired it up yet. I am at 2800ppm salt and so by recommendations could probably do with another bag to get to 3400. However, I am considering staying at 2800 and see if it works, because once we get into summer with good solar heating output I do like to...

If by overlap look you mean the skirt around the side, that's installation error. They should be trimmed or folded up beneath the top cap and look pretty much the same as a bead liner. But I do understand how bead liners would be preferable still.

I've learned that when my pool is cloudy and I don't feel like it's algae, it's actually indeed algae. And it's not gone until the pool is crystal clear, even then it's not gone until a few more days of shocking after that.

It's fiberglass coming through from UV degradation of the vinyl it's encased in. The simplest solution would be to overlay it with tape, but selecting one with UV stability would help make it last longer. Another strategy is to just wipe it vigorously with a wet throwaway towel to brush off...

I always heard Inyo were the specialists in hard to find AGP parts, but idk if that was just marketing. Try contacting them.

Yes that's how they are. They're just annoying because they trap debris, and give a place for algae to hide. My second year I went and trimmed them all down with sharp scissors. Could be done carefully underwater if you really wanted to.

Sanding and painting etc. seems a bit futile to me I would assume if the problem is on the outside it's on the inside too. I wouldn't think it's close to a strucutural concern if it was my pool. Keep it uncovered so it's got ventilation and it's probably ok for 5-10 years.

The unfilled Hayward one that came with my filter died it's first winter. My glycerin filled "measureman" brand gauge from Amazon has survived two winters outside now undrained and still functions. Very UV resistant too.

No. I resist the idea that it would come to that. I believe does need a regular sanitation scheme that is capable of clearing out a film in regular operation. Yes I can accept the notion that persistent air pockets necessarily indicate a suction side leak and I will investigate that further. At...

Perhaps the gaseous chlorine coming out of the water into the bubble space would be enough to kill any algae in there.

I put the basket lid in a bucket with a 50/50 LC and water solution for 20 minutes but it did not wipe out the film satisfactorily.

My Doheny's 3/4hp has a lid identical to the one in this Amazon listing. The baffles always have large air bubbles in them and after growing algae in the basket over the winter this means a film is not getting cleaned out by chlorinated water. I worry this will become an algae seed. Does...

My Morton's pool salt bag said it's from Mexico. I'm not sure if Mexico has any mineral salt mines and it doesn't seem like it would be worth shipping US salt there for processing, nor does this salt product seem like it's highly processed at all. I would have to guess then that this is...

I saw at costco today food salt is only $6/25lbs. That's cheaper than Diamond solar pool salt at $13/40lb and might be what I switch to from now on.

Looks like he grabs from my other bag of Diamond solar pool salt. I guess when I think about it, what really bugs me about seeing the dirty salt go in is the idea it gives me that there are also soluble impurities in it. But soluble impurities would carry themselves through the solar process...

Well that was not a fun way to start my salt pool conversion. Luckily I only bought one bag. Dirty morton pool salt here too.

I'd be confident that was algae in my own pool. Took me a couple years to realize that unexplained "debris" or cloudiness is basically always algae. Green water only happens when it's a full on out of control bloom.

There's not a good reason to pour a pad for a pool. I would use 1" foam on top of a pad, same as I used on dirt.

Is this new or just new to me? I wonder if they are shipping from china or contracting with one of the big three NA manufacturers, Cornelius most likely. It's externally buttressed which is kind of hard to find nowadays and allows for deep ends...

Above ground pools are usually worth $0 or negative money if buyer provides disassembly and haul away. If it came with brand name Hayward or Pentair equipment that would change things, but they usually don't. Base price for a 15' pool only no liner or accessories this year...

I use 1 layer of 3M construction seaming tape, the wide roll, and it has always held for me. Try to only butt factory edges as much as you can. And to be more clear in my warning, after a year on EPS you are going to have a floor that would be described as lumpy. If you are going to mind that...

I have used 1" polystyrene under a bestway 9x18 soft side. I was happy with it and used it again for my steel wall. It can get heel prints but I don't mind that. Nice soft feeling underfoot,

I've heard that Inyo pools are the best resource for rare parts like this. Send them your pics.

Whenever I have faced cloudiness problems, more chlorine has always solved it. Even when I did not perceive a chlorination or algae problem. SLAM method basically. Although I'm not that rigorous and often just aggressively shock for an extended period instead.

Every time I've considered any kind of automatic cleaner I've decided I don't see how they wouldn't get stuck aroudn the ladder. So I'm curious if there really is any possible answer, other than pulling the ladder out which is really awkward to do with mine, I already dislike doing it twice a year.

The beginning of the Lower Total Alkalinity article says you should only lower to address CSI or ph rise and I've never had either. So I was under the impression I was following TFP's suggestion. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/lower-total-alkalinity/ With an SWCG the TA advice...