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It's only 18 months old

Update: I acid washed the IC 40, added a bag of salt and then restarted the pool. It's definitely generating chlorine now, as the FC has risen over 4 points in the last 24 hours without adding any bleach. The lights initially went all green for about 24 hours, but now the low salt light is on...

My IC 40 hasn't produced any salt in the last few days even though the water temp is fine and the salt level is normal. Here's the status lights: Salt level -- low (solid red light) Status: cold water -- blank Status: cell -- blank Status: flow -- green Sanitizer output -- 2 solid green...

OK, I could probably drill some eye bolts into the side of the wall. It just seems like that approach would leave a gap in between the edge of the wall and the cover, leading to lots of leaves still getting into the pool. Also are there any companies that make fine mesh covers that are...

As you can see, my pool poses special challengers for a cover. All I really want is something to block out leaves/large debris. I DONT want a solid cover, I want the cover to be mesh/transparent so that I can see into the pool at all times. How would a cover be anchored over my pool? Would I...

So every week I have to buy a new bottle of 4.0, 7.0 and 10.0 control solution?

It's about 8 months old. But the instructions state that you can reuse the solutions. Surely you don't have to buy a new calibation solution every single time you want to calibrate?

It's municipal/city water

Test on tap water: Apera 7.0 Taylor 7.8

Checked the Apera 7.0 calibration solution on the Taylor, and the Taylor looked accurate (between 6.8 and 7.2) Of note, the 7.0 calibration solution is slightly green so I'm not sure if that would affect the test results for Taylor or not since it's a color change based test.

FC level is 4 Water temp is 58 The K 1000 test is about a year old I calibrated the Apera for 4.0, 7.0, and 10.0 using the supplied reagents that came with the probe

Taylor K-1000 is always at least 0.5 pH higher than the Apera. I calibrate the Apera every 10 readings. For example on today's reading Apera was 7.4, Taylor was 8.2 I'm assuming the Apera is more accurate, but is the Taylor test really that bad? That's a massive difference.

OK so I tried an experiment, I put the Apera pH probe in the pool water and let it sit there for awhile. Here are my readings. 30 seconds: 7.3 45 seconds: 7.4 60 seconds: 7.5 3 mins: 7.65 5 mins: 7.7 10 mins: 7.8 Which reading is accurate?

I've used a regular pH meter and then bought a fancy/better one -- the Apera I used the controls and I keep the Apera in the recommended storage solution. When I initially place the probe in the water, the pH comes out at around 7.35 However, if I let it stay in there, it keeps rising...

On the box it has a red light for low salt. On the screenlogic wireless interface, it reads salt level as 0. However the FAS-DPD test shows a salt level of 3800. Water temp is currently 60 so the SWG is still running.

Whenever a storm hits or the wind picks up there's instantly 5000 leaves in the pool and it clogs the skimmers. I have to do something. All I care about is the leaves, it doesn't need to be some super strong safety cover. So what are the best options? I'm even willing to look at some of...

I'm not using the color coded ph I'm using a pH meter. When I first put it in it jumps up to 8.3 or 8.4 but then over hte course of about 30 seconds it gradually comes down to the 8.1 range

I have a spa spillover but waterfall is turned off; no other water features

Here are my readings: pH 8.1 TA 50 FC 7 CC 0.5 CYA 55 Calcium 450 Salt 3000 Temp 60 CSI -0.05 I can barely get my pH below 8.0 and takes muriatic acid additions every day (1 cup per day) to get there. Should I just keep adding MA every day and forget about the TA? Or do I need to add baking...

OK so I have an obvious pool leak. I already did the bucket test, pool water level is 1 inch lower than the water level in the bucket. The leak location is definitely somewhere in the R corner of the pool, the ground is always wet there even though we've had no rain in months Pool company...

Update -- pool company says "drive" on motor is bad and needs a new circuit board. Of course getting a new circuit board under warranty from Pentair is 7-10 days. I'm not waiting 7-10 days, I'm going to buy another pump and just have someone else (not the pool company) do it in a couple of...

Came home today and the pump was completely dead. Control panel dead. No LEDs lit up, nothing, just blank. Unplugged it, reset circuit breakers, nothing worked. All the other pool equipment is running fine. Pool company says they will be happy to replace the pump in 3 freaking weeks...

I heard a lot of hype on this board about how SWGs were so much better than "regular" chlorine systems. I have to say guys, I'm not impressed. It feels about the same to me as using bleach as your chlorine source. Here's a list of the headaches that SWG has caused me so far (only 10 months of...

I have a robot for the pool which works great but I can't figure out how to clean the spa. The water is clear but it accumulates a small amount of dirt at the bottom. I tried brushing it but it just seems to stay there and doesn't really go down the drain.

I am using 33% HCl acid (blue whale) The TA has gradually decreased from 90 down to 70

Current test results: pH 8.4 FC 5 CA 200 TA 70 CYA 50 Over the last 30 days, I have added 2-3 cups of muriatic acid every single day. That's the amount recommended by the pool math app to drop the pH from 8.3-8.4 down to 7.8 The pH will drop to 7.9 and within 24 hours it's back up to 8.3-8.5...