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You have some options. The first thing you need to know is what your current CYA level is. It needs to be less than 70. After you know the CYA level you can chlorinate to the appropriate level using this chart: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock If it's too...

I would have left the PH alone (no acid) and added a small amount of baking soda to boost the AK. 45 is not too bad if the PH is stable. I would move slowly in the following days.

It does say that but I've found it does indeed work at higher ph levels maybe because of the high temps. I just used it today to raise from 7.4 to 7.6.

I meant to say borax and washing soda increases ph. Doh... Borax raises ph more than ak compared to washing soda. You can do a comparison on the poolcalc. Here's some info I found on Magnesium Hydroxide which is what Easy PH is (not Magnesium Oxide, my bad). I found that it produces almost no...

That happened to me recently as well. Borax works better than washing soda for lowering ph while leaving the ak less affected. There's a product call Easy PH (magnesium oxide) Which has almost no affect on ak. I used this because my ak was already at 55. Just make sure you achieve all you can by...

Note that Dichlor will lower your ph a little so you want to factor that into your calculations.

How did you test your CYA? 300 is off the chart. See link: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock If it's really that high you need to change the water now. I wouldn't even use the tub. The recommended chlorine level for 100 ppm CYA is 11 to 13 with an 8 ppm...

I dealt with CS last year. It was a huge pain. It took a dozen or more purges to complete the process. There is a lot of tubing inside the walls of the tub all coated with the stuff. I wouldn't bother replacing the filters until your sure the system is clear. Just leave them out until the purges...

I just put the correct amount of bleach in a small bottle and take it out with me each time I soak. No more hassle than powder.

Those numbers should stay the same. You might want to test the tub when filled to be sure. Also be sure to perform a flush to clean out the pipes. Often there is material left from the manufacturing process.

After reading Matt's post I agree with your conclusions MPurcell. Anyone want to buy a bunch of MPS? Water is relatively cheap for me in MI so a 3 month refill cycle is a reasonable solution. I guess at the end of the day a CC level of 2 is not a big deal if it remains in check.

My experience supports the idea that MPS will not affect existing CC. I tried and found no noticeable change. Maybe I didn't use enough.

I used 1 to 2 Tsp. daily post soak for 200 Gal. This was when I was using a mineral system and shocking with dichlor once a week or so. Since I switched to the dichlor/bleach method over the past year I haven't been using it much. Checked my CC level today. It was 1 after 2 months. I use the...

Thank you Matt. I'm going to try using it occasionally to combat the build up of the CC that chlorine won't oxidize.

Matt, What TA level do you recommend for MPS? I have a lot of it and would like to use it, especially if it would help with this issue. I'm currently at about 60.

I found using MPS lowers my PH to much. I got tired of constantly testing and adjusting the PH every time I added MPS. Now I just monitor the CC and know it's not a problem unless it gets above 2. I do notice that you have to pay more attention to the chlorine level though. Things can go South...

I have experienced a similar issue. After about two months I start to get CC readings in the 1-2 PPM range. I read a post somewhere that stated there are types of compounds in bather waste that can not be oxidized by chlorine and that this is not unusual for smaller tubs after a couple of months...

Mine is made by Strong. They refused to acknowledge the problem. What lawsuit are you referring to?

Unfortunately yes. Check out my post from this other forum. Total nightmare and no help from the manufacturer. http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/47724-calcium-stearate-white-flakes/

You can still use the MPS post soak as an oxidizer after your done with the Nature2. I have a bunch left over from when I used Nature2. I use it once a week post soak and use less chlorine on that day. I found that if I use it more than that it lowers my PH to much. As a matter of fact I often...

Your guests probably had some detergent residue in their swimsuits and or soap/shampoo residue on them. This happened to me recently and is not unusual. It will eventually dissipate. You can use defoamer if the foam is bothering you. It doesn't take much detergent to cause foam.

Judging by the age of the tub this could be calcium stearate. I had this problem. You can test for it. Capture one or more of the larger particals. Put it in a about 1/2 oz of water in a test tube from your test kit. Add 5 drops of bleach. If the material dissolves it's bio-film. If it doesn't...

There is an ongoing discussion at this link if anyone wants to follow. Calcium Stearate (White Flakes) - Hot Tub Water Chemistry - Pool and Spa Forum

Re: Calcium Stearate Upon refill lots of white flakes 1/8" average coming out of pipes. I'm going to run another cycle. I got sick of running to store for vinegar. Reduced ph to 4 with muratic acid this time.

I have a Spa that is 9 months old. I've maintained it meticulously. Over the past few months I've noticed white flecks floating in the water. The problem has gotten progressively worse so I looked to this and other forums for a solution. The flecks are squishy when you squeeze them between your...