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Once you get it stable it will almost completely stop. Adding Dichlor will lower PH and AK as will MPS so liquid chlorine is preferred. In the winter I have to top off my water weekly which raises PH and AK. I address this by adding to the top off water the amount of acid needed to lower the AK...

Good for now. The PH will probably go up after aerating. If it does take it down to 7.4, aerate, wait about 12 hours and retest. Continue that process until the PH stabilizes around 7.5 to 7.6 plus or minus .1 PM. The PH will likley stabilize with an AK of around 40 to 50. This can vary...

A TA of 40 is not necessarily bad nor is a PH of 7.4. You may have overshot things a little. It's better to go slow at the end and spread things out over a couple of days. I would have let be and checked it again the next day. If the PH is still low I would add a small amount of Borax to bump up...

I agree. It's snake oil.

I've used Pristine Blue. It's a mineral based system that uses copper. I found it to be ineffective and constantly had trouble with cloudy water. You have to shock with chlorine after each use. The shocking is what sanitizes the water. You can skip the Pristine Blue and just shock with dichlor...

My tub is 200 gallons. I often add a teaspoon when topping off or making small adjustments. The big dropper is way easier than trying to pour into a teaspoon.

Of course you could always measure the acid away from the pool into a plastic container like I do

This works well for me. I have a 200 gallon tub. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DCS935/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - - - Updated - - - Remember acid into water. Otherwise it will create a smelly reaction, or worse.

I looked at that pump. I'd love to hear how it works out. The controller is cool and the second pump is a great backup. I settled on the BRS unit because it has a 20' head which I need. My tub is outside and I didn't want to mess with weatherproofing the pump or going outside every time I make...

I use this pump with this timer. It's an AC system. I've been using it for a year with no problems. I keep the pump and chlorine supply in the basement and ran a tube about 18' to the tub outside. My tub is about 200 gallons. It's very easy to dose small amounts. Used it through most of the...

I use a Peristaltic pump with liquid chlorine. It works great for keeping a constant low level of chlorine. You would just run it at a very low setting to maintain a minimal level, then add the correct amount to oxidize bather waste when you use it. You would need to experiment a bit to get the...

I like the appearance of the Arbor. I,m 6'2" and like the look of the center position with the extra jets and extended length, but it's hard to tell without dimensions. I see the Cape Town has two black controls. I wonder what the second one does (one will be for the air)? My Integrity is a bit...

You probably saw my recent post. I've had one of these for about 2.5 years with no problems. I paid $2399. It looks like the same tub on Amazon for $2000...

This is the tub I have: https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Hot-Tubs-SS13150300-Integrity-11/dp/B0713TGHVM?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAJPKTMAQCHH5CQMHA&tag=chspa-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0713TGHVM $2000 on amazon. It's made by Strong Spas and has decent components. It's...

One thing I would point out is that you can get a nice plug and play solid tub for $2700 delivered to your door including shipping. There is no installation. All you need is a level concrete or gravel pad and a 120 volt outlet or 240 volt service. These have a heater that can run at 120 or 240...

Don't let the sun get to it. The chlorine will degrade. It's made of a semi clear plastic.

I keep it an old 16 or 32 oz hydrogen peroxide bottle. it's much easier to pour the small amounts I need (1 to 3 tbl). Those bottles are light proof.

Lots of good info here: http://boisediesel.com/blog/2016/7/spa-purge

The Ahh-Some website has a good description of what biofilm is. You will also find numerous posts on this on other forums if you search the term. Cal Hypo will increase your calcium hardness which you don't really want. Use Sodium Hypo AKA bleach.

I doubt this has anything to do with calcium hardness. The CC is high indicating a biological contaminant. The shock level for a cya of 60 should be fc 24 as per the chart linked below: https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock See this link for shock...

This might help if you haven't looked at it. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/84-How-do-I-use-Bromine-in-my-spa-(or-pool)

I tried the cleanwater blue system that came with my Spa Depot spa. I gave up on it after about a year. It required constant dichlor shocking to keep the water clear. You're better off just using the dichlor then bleach method. You end up using the same amount of chlorine in the long run with...

Got this unit for $50. It makes quick work of it. Get 1 1/4" tubing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0170M5OM4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should continue with ahh-some until the water is clear. You can do a partial fill to save water and time. Fill to a point the jets are covered and the intake will not suck air.

It might be worth adding a filter to your fill source.

Would a CC test provide an indication of a problem? Or wouldn't that work because there is no chlorine or bromine? I've noticed that my water gets cloudy the second there is a problem.

The main problem I see with an ozone only system is that there is no way to test for adequate ozone levels. It sounds like davemill got really lucky. Most users I read about (myself included) have not had that experience with ozone. There is a very cumbersome test for unit functionality but it...

You can gradually bump up the ph without much concern about ak. Borax is not the same thing as comet. It's commonly called 20 Mule Team Borax and is by the laundry detergent.

What is your current ta?

Take it slow with the borax until you get a feel for it. It will increase the ak a little, just not as much as the ph.