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What is your PH? It will rise after use with the jets on but should fall after sitting idle for a few hours. Some spas seem to mix air in during recirculating which makes things a bit tough. What are you using for a test kit?

If you continue to have issues with your check valve you could try these chemically resistant ones I use. They work well for me. Replace them about once a year. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OP2CDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I built my system using a timer set to run intermittently during the night. I run the hose where the cover folds and into the tub. No problems with the check valve other than It plugs up after about a year. That might have to do with the fact that it's sitting in the water. I use it as a weight...

At least I could replace the foam for half the cost. Glad to have found a local supplier.

The warm moist air seeps in through an opening, condenses on the top and then saturates the foam. This is a big problem for those of us in Northern climates.

They will soak up a lot of water. It will make them very heavy and will greatly reduce the R factor. I recently had a local place replace my foam. It cost about half as much as a new cover. The vinyl was still in decent shape.

That's true, but if you're having trouble with chlorine demand it's something to look into. I do the chlorine soak to help clean the filter.

Did you clean or replace the filter. They can harbor nasties. I throw them in the tub when I purge with Ahh-some and then soak them in shock level water overnight before reusing them.

I was unable to find liquid at a reasonable price. The powder works fine and is cheap.

I've found I need an AK of 50 to get a stable PH. This appears to be the norm.

You do want to use the sock. It won't dissolve without it. I use one of these: Amazon.com: Premium Fine Mesh Food Grade Nut Milk Bag for Almond Milk/Soy Milk - Fine Mesh Nylon Cheesecloth & Cold Brew Coffee Filter, 9" x 12" (1): Kitchen & Dining

I use a hose with a jet attachment to rinse the tub as it drains. I've found this keeps it from sticking. I also squirt down the intake to rinse that line. I also squirt into the jets to rinse those. I use a sump pump with a 1.5" hose which empties it quick. I don't have a drain so I use a shop...

I've switched to using stabilizer instead of dichlor for CYA. I add it once at fill and use liquid chlorine. The constant PH fluctuation from dichlor was driving me nuts. It's actually pretty acidic. Now I get the PH set the first couple of days after the fill and I'm set with CYA and PH.

CYA and Dichlor are acidic. The pool calc will tell you how much they will lower your PH and AK. I always have to account for this during a new fill. You may find after you run your air for 30 min or so it will rise. Be careful not to over shoot it. It's best to move slow at this stage. What is...

I have this dispenser: https://www.amazon.com/Floating-Chlorine-Dispenser-Tablets-SplashTech/dp/B01BXA0AHI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1545586097&sr=8-4&keywords=chlorine+dispenser+for+1+inch+tabs Tabs like these...

I've used them. I have one that uses 1 inch tabs. Even with all the openings closed it still released to much for my 200 gal tub. I made a tube out of pvc pipe and drilled a couple of 1/8" holes in it. It holds two tabs and kept the chlorine up for about 12 days (without use).

Bring a gallon of water or two with you when you go out to soak. Every other night would probably do.

I'm South of you in Holland. This forum is great and will give you all the info you need. Definitely keep the tub going. They're hard to drain completly and you don't want any water in the lines to freeze. Besides you're going to want to use it! You can purge, drain and fill in one day if you...

Running a purge with ahh-some may help. It sounds like some kind of residue on the liner.

I personally don't bother to test for CYA. You can calculate how much Dichlor is needed to get to 40 and add that amount before switching to liquid chlorine. This can take a while depending on how much Dichlor you use. I prefer to use pure stabilizer so I can add it in one shot and avoid the PH...

I agree. since his TA is getting close it's better to take it slow, especially since he'll be adding dichlor.

Once your TA is at 50 run your air for about 20 min. This will raise the PH out of range if your TA is to high. If the PH is in range then you have been successful. Wait a day before checking it again. If the PH is still high take the TA down another 2 ppm or so per adjustment. You can go as low...

You should continue to lower the TA. It won't stabilize until you get it in the 50 range. Lower the PH to 6 and aerate for about 20 min. Make a note of the amount the TA is being lowered or test. Don't let the TA get much below 50 until you are sure that the PH is not going back up. Once you get...

CC of .6 is not bad for a hot tub. See if it goes up past 1.

Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in here but those levels seem a bit low to me. I would slowly bump up the PH about .1 PPM at a time with Borax until you get the PH stable at about 7.5 to 7.6. I wonder what AK you would end up with?

Avoid letting it fall to zero and you will be fine.

It's probably okay. What are your CC levels?

You really want to avoid it. If it's been less than 12 hours, the water is clear and there's no odor you may be okay. If you start going through a lot of chlorine you'll know there is a problem. If your CC levels are above 2 it's an indication there is a problem and will need to shock/slam per...

If you let it sit for a day do you get the same readings? 20 is pretty low. I guess it doesn't matter if your PH is within range.

Are you using test strips?