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This at least gives me some hope that the cell is functional. i'll keep monitoring that's in process. i'm trying to run a controlled OCLT, but the family and doggie keeps "sabotaging" it :-)

hi. i'm beginning to doubt the chlorine production of my ichlor 30. so i'm running a test using my hot tub (400gals). according to the Pool Math calculator, if i run the SWG for 1 hour at 100%, the FC should raise by 12. if it only raised by 3 (25% effective), does this mean it's going bad...

Good idea on the warranty card. This way if it happens again, I go straight to Pentair.

Sigh... yet another mishap from the installer. Thanks for confirming though. i'll fix today.

I think it's shot. Company that installed it is providing a replacement cell. Side note 1 - while they will provide a replacement, they also wanted $350 for installation. So I'm taking my chances and installing myself when it arrives. Side note 2 - should the power center be bounded to the...

Not backwards. Almost looks like it’s missing LED segments or the display is just displaying garbled characters. Here’s a different view

thanks for this. you're right. i had both manuals (iCHLOR and IC) and somehow assumed mine was an IC40. it's an iCHLOR30 per the picture and the invoice.

4 months. ok, i'll give the installer a call and take it from there. thanks

Hi. Do I consider this a bad display and exercise warranty? It’s hard to tell from pic, it basically the output level indicator and generation indicator are not legible. I’ve tried taking apart, unplugging, etc. Thanks!

Here’s the latest on my build. I started down the poolcontroller route, but it started looking somewhat more complicated than what I needed. BUT I am taking your heating approach - set heater to highest temp and call for heat based on the sensors attached to the water line. Pretty ingenious wo...

you're absolutely right and was already seeing "the light" and following your suggestion re the SW side of it. my project started with me trying to automate the valves. straight forward. then i started looking into replacing the intermatic clock/contactor. then the heater, then.... you get...

i havent been able to dedicate as much time to this as I’d like, but this is what the control center is starting to look like. I do need a bigger box because things are looking tight. Question - is it possible to control the temperature settings (spa and pool) on a Mastertemp 400 via RS485...

Good eye! Yes, that’s a “light” power adapter I’m using to test. I’m looking at this one: FUNCTIONAL DEVICES TR100VA002 100VA, Primary 120V, 50/60HZ, Secondary 24VAC, 4 Wire, Transformer, Dual HUB/Foot Mount, AUTO Reset Amazon.com: FUNCTIONAL DEVICES TR100VA002 100VA, Primary 120V, 50/60HZ...

here's my mock-up as a courtesy. i'm waiting on a ESP32 so i can connect to more relays (this ESP8266 only allows 5 inputs) and 4 valve actuators. ps - ignore the dog chewed handle :-)

This setup is incredible. I was only looking to automate the valves, maybe the pump/circulation. But this write up is amazing. Particularly the ph probe setup, which I definitely would benefit from if it was automated. Thanks!

i like what you did with the valves. that's very close to what i'm doing. thanks!

yes, this is the route i'm going. for the pump/heater/SWG control, i currently have an intermatic PF1112T that handles everything. i was thinking of transitioning to something like this tuya-based controller originally. Tuya stuff integrates OK with Home Assistant, unless tuya decides to...

hi. i'm looking at using shelly(ies) + ESPhome to automate most of my pool equipment - pump, heater, valves, etc. i can't bring myself to paying 1000s for the Pentair stuff :-) anyway, i stumbled on your post and saw you're using a shelly 1PM. Is this because your equipment runs off 110V...

Good feedback all. @Dave31410 I want to minimize hours I have to run pump. Ideally I want to keep at 6hrs. This should get me ~2 FC for my size pool (~16k gals) and not eat too much into my current solar panel production. Thanks everyone.

Hi. Any thoughts/advice on running at 100%? I assume the cells will wear out sooner, or is the cell derated at 100% duty? Thanks

Nice. I’ll check it out. Thanks!

Yes I’ve seen others. Xcel is what was used on mine, so I figured best to stay consistent.

Thanks for this. I’ll give it a try, assuming I can find the Xcel top coat.

yes, i've seen these videos. but they're mostly for resurfacing the entire deck. any solutions for patching? thank again...

Hi. The top layer is Xcel. I can’t tell if that’s the only thing that chipped, or if there’s something between the concrete and the Xcel. Can I just reapply Xcel to these chip offs? Thanks