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Re: **Please Help**Questions about starting up new plaster p Yes you can start straight away, you wont want your pool sitting around for a month without sanitiser anyway so there's nothing wrong with a chlorine pool to start with, it will just be converted to salt later. Stuart

I know of a supplier that has a good cost lovibond comparator but its only tablet testing to 4ppm chlorine and I have also e-mailed Palintest here in the UK, once I have heard back from Palintest I can certainly update. Stuart

Hi Loop-Pea, good to hear from another Brit! Yeh you are correct Tablet re-agents are more or less the same Lovibond and Palintest tablets are unofficially swappable in comparators and photometers from both companies, I do naturally realise that a dillution will give incorrect readings, even...

Trip to Britain's motorway system is in order, we have more cones over here than we have miles of road!!

And cheaply! Do you have roadwork cones like we have in UK with the big heavy plastic feet? They are around 3" and very sturdy! Something along those lines! Stuart

Drill an attachment onto both sides of the steps onto the poolside and add a couple of wedges to the front of the steps on the pool floor would be my best guess, I say attachment onto the poolside as you are going to have stabilty issues with the steps otherwise. Regards Stuart

you can still use your htc test kit by dilution testing your water, using source water or bottled to get a chlorine reading, providing you are accurate with your dilution, 1 part pool water to 9 parts source will give you a reading which you can just multiply by 10 - i.e. your 35ppm FC reading...

Re: Should i lower PH? .... newbie question but why did it r Everything is fine where it is, TA can be between 80-120, so your in target with it, Chlorine in all forms (except gas) is Alkali so will slowly raise your pH, the TA just stops the violent swings in pH in your pool chemistry. Just...

The way we are trained over here is that irrelevant of wether your pool is liner etc maintaining a good saturation index will prevent problems down the road, negative SI values are still corrosive so they are going to try and eat something - where is there calcium or metals available in a...

The fact that you still have a CC of 1 suggests that the algae is still fighting with the chlorine, but your figures do suggest your CC reading dropping albeit rather slowly, you are winning the fight, there is no fast alternative, draining now will be pointless as you have put in so much bleach...

A basic rule of thumb, at least in the UK is Calcium Hypochlorite is best for soft water areas, whereas Sodium Hypochlorite (bleach) is best for hard water areas. I live in a soft water area and cal hypo isbetter as it keeps up CH levels, whereas in the south of England bleach is used more in...

Ha ha as long as the poop is 'encased' within itself you dont have a problem and just scooping it out will suffice, poop is only a problem in pools when it is in liquid form, which allows the enclosed feacal matter to become water borne, which leads to concerns such as cryptosporidium etc...

Shock would be good, plus cover, and you could also top up your pool to a higher level to compensate for water loss, if you loose a lot of water may be good idea to only pump from sump for the week Regards Stuart

In a liner pool a Langelier Saturation Index of -1.2 is not really a concern according to this websites authorities, in GB we would still reccommend increasing CH and pH to reach a more neutral level as we believe a low SI to still be erosive/corrosive to plant equipment ie your boiler and pump...

Are you borated? That would give you the additional pH buffer you require by using the BBB method in pool school, that is if you really are bothered about the acceptable pH level you already have. Stuart

Your readings seem fine 70 TA might cause some slight pH bounce, I would add enough baking soda to get the TA at 80-100, which will also increase your pH as you do slightly. 7.2pH is at the bottom of the reccommended level for water chemistry but certainly not outwith the recommended levels, so...

Do you backwash? Backwashing dillutes pool water - which of course is a good thing

There is certainly a slight improvement there over your previous photos, flicking from page 6 to the current photo i think gives the best impression of how things are moving along, you will likely get a nice surprise in the next few mornings and come out to find it blue again Stu

A Total Alkalinity factor of 80-120 will certainly give you more stable pH results as it acts as a pH buffer when within acceptable readings. Calcium Hardness is not really a major issue, although maintaining it in the region of 200-250 will cease and erosion of plant equipment in a liner pool...

£28.00 ($43.68USD) for a 25kg sack from chemical company, so I'd say for 50lb's which is 22kg in my money i'd be paying £25.00 guestimate or $39.00 is USD, yip you were robbed, raped and laughed at :-/

yip, dump a couple of litres of plain bleach into it and swim on! a pH of 8 is a 'bit' uncomfortable for the eye and skin which is 7.5, but if that's your source water, like Richard320 says, they bathe in that water source anyway. Stu

I've taken the time to read through all these posts, and I must say that I agree with Yeggim, cloudiness can be sorted once the pool water is blue instead of green IMHO. Guardwife 2, your doing fine, keep with the superchlorination, that you have been doing for the past few days, and it WILL...

Just green algae hiding in a discrete location then? I will keep you updated once I start the deep clean this week Good food for thought Richard, I am also going to take over the cleaning of the deck surround as I believe the cleaning regime around the deck to be inacurate, but that is more...

I'm pretty sure the air-con units have filters, i'm really not sure but think they are exhaust. Test using Lovibond Comparator and DPD re-agents. I will be running an OCLT over the next few days likely starting tuesday following poolguynj's advice, but I don't have above 5ppm test available so...

ditto Scott's post, the pump has to not exceed the flow rate of the filter or else pressure becomes too high, blowing sand, you will be lucky if you haven't cracked some laterals in your filter, put a smaller pump back on, if not immediately possible, slow down your pump or reduce flow by...

Ive had a re-curring what I thought was Algae problem in an indoor hopper design pool, with what looks like algae sitting on the joins, corners and slope edges of the pool floor. I have superchlorinated upto 15ppm, brushed and hoovered, then extended backwashed and flocculate with goldifloc...