Search results

Thanks for the suggestions. the expansion joint meaning the caulk like material between the coping and the cement patio? If so, that definitively needs to be replaced. Do you have any suggestions for that? I believe you are suggesting that water ingress could have happened in the area and frozen...

Hi all, had my pool re-plastered with gunnite around 12 years ago. I’ve noticed over the past few years that there been several raised spots, small “potholes” and crack type areas on the floor and walls. Have also noticed that the plaster under the coping has begun to fall apart in some areas...

It seems they are indeed the shorter Dwv couplings (pressure rated to 5psi according to the specs)… any ideas on the easiest way to fix this? Or if it needs to be fixed in the first place? I would need to somehow remove the couplings from the valves and unions to fix this without spending a ton...

Got the pump installed and it’s working great. However I’m pretty sure the store mis labeled the couplers I used and I’m not sure they are pressure rated… is this a big deal that would require re- plumbing?

Sounds good. I also learned that the superflo needs 10 inches of straight line on the suction end. My current setup has the pump directly up to the suction valve so I should have to move the pump. Moving the pump straight back would not leave room for the filter drain. Any suggestions on where...

Thanks! I was thinking of putting it on the horizontal run right after the heater. There should be just enough space there with the flow sensor and unit. Would that work?

Hi all! I have a 30k gallon in ground pool. I just bought a circupool Rj60+ and a Pentair superflo VS. I’m looking for advice on the best installation for these items. As well as anything else you may see that is incorrect or needs fixing on the pad. I’ve posted some photos below for reference...

The water is holding chlorine for a few hours at 30ppm CYA. Should I raise the CYA a bit more? Also my PH is extremely low.. under 6.8. I assume this is due to the reaction of chlorine and ammonia causing hydrochloric acid. Do I need to add PH up if my TA is 70?

Update! Drained and refilled most of the pool over a few cycles.. got the ammonia level down to about 6ppm. Decided to stop there and start the SLAM process. I ended up needed about 12 gallons to reduce the ammonia to zero, after which the pool started finally holding chlorine! I’m currently...

Thanks! I will do that. Since I can test the ammonia levels, any recommendation on what ppm level to stop at? I was thinking once it’s under 3ppm. That should be able to be taken out with under 10 gallons of bleach.

Update: I tested the water this morning and only had 2ppm of FC. Tested my ammonia and it was still off the charts. I diluted the sample by 1/2 and 1/4 to try to get a reading, eventually settled on around 25ppm of ammonia as my current level. According to what you said, this level would...

They were both zero upon opening. I added some dry stabilizer that brought my cya back up to 45 or so, and it’s been holding there since. I can try diluting the sample to get a more accurate reading of the ammonia in the water tommorow, but it appears to be around 10ppm. I also tested the tap...

No problem! I think I’ve added a signature now. interesting discovery.. I did some reading and I think my issue is high ammonia. The CYA level was extremely high(150ppm) at close last year. When I reopened, the CYA was zero and the FC was also zero. I’ve read that Cya can be converted by...

thanks, I’ll continue to test FC and add bleach. Are there any negative effects of adding so much bleach? I’ve added 9 gallons today and just went to get some more. Just seems like a lot.

Thank you. The other strange thing is that my k-100 test shows a very light shade of yellow on the TC test. With a CC this high, shouldn’t it be very dark? The test does darken over time, but not over 5ppm level like I would expect.

This is what my dpd powder looks like.

the problem is I’ve added 6 gallons of liquid chlorine, which should have risen my FC by 30 according to pool math. Maybe my dpd test is faulty?

I added 3 more gallons and tested again after one hour. FC: 4.5 CC: 16 I don’t know whats going on, but this doesn’t seem accurate to me? Maybe the FC is reading as CC somehow? I have been adding sodium hypochlorite liquid chlorine.

Thanks for the explanation of the copper, I have switched to only pure chlorine, so this shouldn’t be a further issue. In other news, I just tested and dosed 3 gallons of liquid chlorine (10% sodium hypochlorite) to start SLAM according to pool math (to bring FC up to 14). I tested before at...

I used some dichlor shock which had copper very sparingly about a month ago. We do have a raypak heater, which is currently broken and not in use, but there is visible blue copper residue on all the coils. Would that small amount (5-10lbs) of dichlor cause this, and is it bad to have in the pool...