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I have an IC40 and an Easytouch, and I like the control that I get with the combo. However, the IC40 can be somewhat expensive to maintain. It's anecdotal, but there are many reports of failed cells. I myself wnt through two bad cells in about 4 years. After switching to tablets for a few...

I had a problem similar to Gobblerhuntr, and replacing the flow switch definitely helped fix the issue. The flow switch definitely has a temperature sensor in it. The IC40 uses the temperature reading to interpret the electrical resistivity of the water and determine a salt concentration...

FWIW, the guy at Lowe's where I buy my Kem-Tek CYA told me that Clorox had bought out Kem-Tek and was just branding it differently. I have no idea if he was correct. As for the change from 4 lbs to 5 lbs, my guess is that it gives them an excuse to raise the price of the bottle, even if the...

How did you measure the salt level? If you had it measured at a pool store, there's a good possibility that the flow switch/thermistor in the salt cell is bad. I had the very same problem. Pool store measured 3400 ppm, but the IC40 (by way of the EasyTouch system display) was reading 2500 ppm...

Never bought any yet, but there are numerous sellers of Pleatco filters on ebay. I found a set of 4 for my 520 SF Pentair for under $200 shipped.

If you're building a spa, then it might be possible to use a single VS pump for the entire installation rather than having a separate pump for the spa. I'm no expert on pool/spa construction, but I seem to recall that many installations used a booster pump to generate the pressure for the spa...

That's a great idea. I may do something similar for muriatic acid.

If I could somehow replace the IC40 cell with one from a different manufacturer, I probably would. However, it would be an expensive proposition to replace both the cell and the power center/controller. Thus, it's cheaper in the short term to just cough up the money for the replacement IC40...

I'm one of those people that specified the Intellichlor on my pool build. I specified all-Pentair equipment in order to qualify for the 3-year warranty. I really didn't know anything about the differences between Pentair and other brands, but I knew that I definitely wanted the Intelliflo...

I'm pretty certain my water was reasonably within normal ranges. My CSI calculations always produced very satisfactory numbers. While I say I've cleaned them multiple times, I've actually cleaned them LESS FREQUENTLY than recommended by Pentair. Plus, the last 2 or 3 cleanings per cell, out of...

I'm happy to report that the problem is resolved. I replaced the flow sensor (which contains a temperature sensor) and my salt readings instantly went from 2500 PPM to 4000 PPM. So it turns out that it definitely was a hardware issue with the cell. Interestingly, a tech rep from Pentair...

I wish my cells lasted that long. My first cell lasted 18 months and was replaced under warranty. My second lasted 2 seasons (failed due to persistent low-salt readings), after which I switched to tabs for a year or two. Finally bit the bullet and purchased another cell 2 years ago. I've...

Thanks. I knew about the cold water, so I waited until the water warmed somewhat before reconnecting the SWG. Water is currently between 58-61 degrees, depending on time of day. I saw a different thread about replacing the flow/temp sensor. Could that help? I actually have a spare from an...

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but can anyone confirm that the newer IC40's CANNOT be recalibrated? I have a two-year-old cell that is going into its third season. It's currently reading 2550 ppm, and not producing chlorine. Last summer, the cell was reading ~3400-3800 ppm after I cleaned...

The only down side is cost of replacing the cells. My SWG is extremely convenient, when it works. I'm on my third cell in about 7 years. Each one has lasted less than two years. This will be my third season with my current cell, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks. Will do.

Thanks. Good advice. I always thought that tthe cold would kill off the algae. I'm just going to wait another week or two for the water temps to get into the mid-low 60's. In the meantime, I'll bring up the FC levels a bit with the SWG. Given that the water is clear and I'm dealing with small...

I'm happy with the choice I made, except for the fact that my cells have only lasted 2 seasons each. My latest IC40 has worked for 2 seasons now, and I'm crossing my fingers that it will last a few more years this time.

For the first time in 7 years, I've had some mild algae issues with my 7-year old pool. Water was clear all summer, but there's been a couple of spots that I needed to brush every week or two to to prevent a bloom. I've maintained my FC level at around 4-7 ppm (CYA ~60-80) throughout the summer...

I had a similar problem with my IC40 persistently reading low levels of salt. Even though I didn't see any scale on the cells, there must have been some buildup on the salt sensor. Cleaning the cell with approx 60/40 H20/muriatic acid (29%) resolved the problem. My salt readings have been...

Tempting. Wish they made a model to replace the Pentair IC40.

Interesting topic. I just googled for the protocol, and I found the following info that might be of interest to you. http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/10059-pool-equipment-automation-suggestion/page-2#entry203939 It doesn't have the answer that you're specifically looking for, but it might...

I just wonder if there's any harm to just leaving the cell in place, but shutting it off or unplugging it. That is essentially what I have done over the last 7 years. Of course, I'm now on my 3rd cell... I'm in So. California, so the freezing risk is negligible..

I am usually an advocate of spending a few more bucks to gain some spares, but I'm not sure the additional cost warrants it in this case. The salt cell will probably need to be replaced in the next year or two, but that's only about 500-600 or so. Do you really want $400 dollars worth of relays...

I have a similar configuration as the OP, and I've had my returns set up to create a circular flow ever since the pool was opened. I run the pump at low speed for most of the day, and then I run at high-speed for about an hour every afternoon after our usual late-afternoon winds. I've never...

I wouldn't trust the road salt without knowing what's in it. May not matter for an AGP, but you never know. Is there no way to turn off the salt cell? Probably safer to just add bleach for a few days until you can get some high-purity salt. That's what I would do.

By the way, thanks again to everyone that is trying to help me out on this. I'm really stumped on this, and I appreciate any ideas that you may have. FWIW, here's some background info on the issues I had last year. It all started about a week after I added borates to my pool for the first time...

Thanks. I'm going to the pool store today, so I'll look for that.

I can double-check it, but I'm pretty certain. I've shut it off at the equipment pad, and it's a quarter-turn butterfly valve, so it's pretty unlikely that it would be leaking water. Even if it were on, the current water level is about 1/2 inch higher than where the auto-fill normally turns ON...

Morton Pool Salt