Search results

Adding my experience here, my IC40 appears to have stopped working in the last 7-10 days. When I checked chlorine last week, I was at ~ 1ppm, and the check cell light was flashing. I cleaned the cell and boosted the percentage and pump run times since temps are getting warmer. This morning...

I had high CH levels 600-1000ppm for the first 5-6 years after my pool was built. I did partial drains every couple of years or so to knock it down to 400 or so temporarily, but the CH just kept climbing. I also have white plaster. Then, in the last 3-4 years, the CH began to stabilize around...

My two cents from experience with a cheap above-ground pool years ago: The blue tarps will break down from UV exposure after a few months, and you'll have thousands of little blue plastic fragments floating around in your water. If you want to cover it, it needs to be something designed for...

For what it's worth, my pool was built around the same time as the OP's pool (2007). I have the Pentair Easytouch with the IC40 option. As far as I can tell, the power to the SWCG transformer is NOT run through a relay. And, as far as I know, it was prewired this way at the factory (but it's...

Sometimes you need to pull the turbine wheel completely out in order to clear all the debris. This happens to me a few times a year when a rock/wood chip/etc. gets sucked up and gets jammed. Often, a few shakes is all it takes, but if you don't see it fall out, then there's a good chance that...

What Dirk said is true.

I'm curious what this looked like. Was 50% of the center blade completely gone?

If the cell is producing any chlorine at all, that is a good sign. If you have any CL in your pool from the SWG, it probably just needs to be cleaned or adjusted. If the "Cell" light is steady red, then that could indicate a larger problem. I've had two IC40 cells fail within their first...

I don't think the flow switch functionality is well-documented in any of Pentair's manuals. Shame on Pentair for hiding such critical functionality in a "flow switch" and then neglecting to tell people about it. I had to replace my flow switch again a few months ago after my salt readings...

Thanks, but I don't think wattage readings are available on my Intelliflo VS (Not VF). I'll have to doublecheck.

Off-topic but I'm curious how you calculated that. I have the Intelliflo variable speed, but I don't have a good way to measure flow or wattage. I've always wondered what my exact cost of operation was. I also run my pump at around 1100-1200 rpm. I set it to about 100 rpm more than required to...

Unless the OP was edited, he is being quoted the Intellitouch automation system. (1) Pentair IntelliTouch 4 Automation system with programmable event timers and freeze guard protection with remote control. The Easytouch 4 might be less expensive, but I suspect the...

No idea but you might be able to find something really close at Lowes/Home Depot if you have the originals. They have a pretty fair assortment, last I checked. Most likely, the ring width (cross-sectional diameter) is going to be a fractional size, 1/8", 3/16" or something like that, so you...

Had something similar happen to me on my 1st IC40 about 10 years ago. Pentair replaced the cell under warranty, but I was still not happy that it lasted less than two years. Do you have an Easy-Touch or Intellitouch controller? If so, have you checked the diagnostics? If the salt level reading...

Could also be a bad flow sensor. The flow sensor has a temperature sensing device which can cause low salt readings when it goes bad. Do a forum search for "520736" to find more information.

Throwing in my 2 cents In Southern California, a variable speed pump is a no brainer. It probably pays for itself in less than a year. I'm pretty sure that mine did. The IC60 is also a good recommendation for a 18-20K pool. I have a IC40 for my 13K pool, and in the summer I run it at about...

^^^ That is good advice for anyone building a pool, or almost anything else for that matter. If you can afford it, it's a good idea to add the automation during the initial construction. In my case, the wireless option was not that big a deal to me because my equipment pad is only 15 feet from...

Good catch. The caps definitely look like they've gone bad, which could wreak havoc with a lot of the voltage levels in the circuit board. Probably too late since the OP has already replaced the entire system, but maybe it could be salvaged as a spare if it hasn't already been thrown out.

I know this is an old thread but I thought I'd respond in case anyone else has the same problem. I had this happen to me several times with my navigator. The root cause of the problem was in the "gearbox". This is an internal component that uses water flow to slowly turn the hose connection...

I did not know Pentair offered a retrofit kit. I'll have to look into it, but I don't if it's worth $300+ for me right now. Tempting, though. Thanks.

A lot of good options today. When I built my pool, the only remote option for the Easytouch system was Pentair's wireless remote. Basically a glorified RF TV remote. Smartphones weren't a thing yet at the time. These days, hooking these up to WiFi is almost a no-brainer. You'll be glad you...

Locky, Excellent choice. I wanted to point out that you stated your electric cost at 0.2 to 0.9 cents. As a fellow Californian, I'm fairly certain that the cost in San Jose is closer to 0.2 to 0.9 DOLLARS per kWH. Either that, or you did not include some of the other costs that are included...

Was going to chime in with my two cents, but it seems like you've already made a decision. FWIW, good choice. I'm glad I paid the few extra bucks when I put my pool in. I toyed with the idea of adding a wireless remote after the pool was built, but didn't want to pay the extra $450. I often...

Could be a short or a ground fault. Check the GFCI if you've got one. I've had that happen several times. Depending on the light fixture, they can leak and partially fill with water. When that happens, moisture/humidity can cause the bulb/socket to corrode.

Thanks, that's what I've figured. I've replaced the bulbs before so I didn't think there was anything wattage-specific, but I just wanted to make sure before plunking down 200 bucks. I've actually had pretty decent luck with standard LED floodlights, so that's what I plan to use once the...

So after 10 years, this fixture needs to be replaced as the edison socket has gotten corroded to the point where it shorted even without a bulb. Both my lights developed small leaks over the years and I've band-aided them with silicone sealant, but the moisture finally got to one of the sockets...

This happened to me about a year ago. Replaced the GFCI and it worked fine.

I suspect that you are correct on this. Just a tip: save the sensor from the old cell. It might come in handy. I had the sensor on my cell fail after about 2 years. Fortunately, I still had my old cell that went bad prematurely, and I was able to harvest the sensor. The old cell might be useful...

I've had a couple of IC40's go bad over the years. I kept one around for a while thinking I might be able to salvage a part from it. The only thing that it was useful for was as a dummy cell.

I imagine she's talking about the air temp. Water temp is likely in the 80's and rising. Even in Phoenix, it will take a while for 14000 gallons of water to warm up after a long winter/spring.