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Just remove the handle. Then someone will have to use pliers to change it's position.

Richard; just want to be through. If it's for sure coming from around the motor shaft then; seal is no good, seal surfaces are not clean, motor not installed correctly, seal plate cracked, motor shaft not straight, or impellor warped or crooked, motor not bolted up completely. It's one of these.

Compool valves are similar to Jandy valves. Switching to a Jandy valve and/or a Jandy valve actuator is a good choice.

You need to add the DE slowly, a little at a time, otherwise some will back out into the pool. Patience is the key.

Yes, go online and look for pool light cord conduit plugs. There are plugs for all of the major brands of pool lights.

But did you replace the seal plate gasket?

The pipe going into the top of your pump gas to be glued into the nut. Maybe that's why it leaks, or that gasket is crimped, no good, or has gunk on it.

Be patient, eventually all that DE will clean up. Yeah, I've done this before!

Why don't you replace the eyeballs? They're like $10 each?

Having dealt with this in the past, your spillway is not level

Most of the time, finding plumbing leaks is an exercise of logic and observation. 99.9% of all leaks stop at the level of the leak. So, in your case, since the water has stopped at the bottom of your return line means that the leak can be either in that pipe or at the fitting, it could be either.

Doesn't your spa normally overflow into your pool? And, check whether your valves are turned to the correct positions.

Can't see your pictures but it's not unusual for some jive guys to plumb the filter in without unions.

Hi Casey. Been doing pools since 1972 and can probably I'd the pump but I'm not able to view your pictures. Any other way I can view them?

For a short term problem, replace the bearings, seal, any seal plate gasket. No plumbing has to be done.

I know I'm not smart but how does your heater run your pump?

You should check the specs of your StaRite filter. I could be wrong but I think that that DE mode filter is by design not used with a BW valve But I've only ever seen 2 and neither had a BW valve.

Sounds like there is something in the impellor. It should spin freely by hand.

Make sure that you check the burners at the openings, check the orifices, especially the pilot igniter orifice, and above all, check the pilot assembly for spider webs, small debris,etc.

Yes, it's an OLD Hayward Super Pump and that motor is in bad condition. I know that you can actually get that same pump and motor as a whole unit still today. Probably replacing the whole thing would be easier than it separately

Those little heat pumps are kinda finicky I think that clearing out those hoses and taking apart the pump and checking the impellor is in order. Normally, that type of circulation pump is really quiet. Also, your flow switch should come apart so you can inspect the paddle to check its condition.

But did you replace the seal plate gasket? You did not mention it in your post.

Your pictures aren't helping me. I doubt there is a drain plug for the spa shell. Can we see a picture of the light so we can recommend the correct parts?

Actually they usually work unless the suction line is either plugged or you have a check valve.

You live in my neck of the woods. That is one old Laars heater! I think it's replacement time, especially if your exchanger is leaking.

Hi Paul. Are you talking about an air blower? I'm unclear as to the nature of your issue.

I would automatically replace the light, the whole unit. Since water is able to travel far into.the light conduit, you are facing a serious health issue. Any splice in a pool light cord is dangerous.

Does your pool leak? If it doesn't your warranty probably will not apply

You need a separation tank to catch the DE. Inside it is a bag that catches the DE, removeable, and after cleaning, is reinstalled.

Is it possible that the new blower motor is the wrong voltage? A 220v motor getting 110v would run slow or intermittent.