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Have you checked all around the pool for another suction port? Like a vacuum line for a pool cleaner? Its obviously sucking water from somewhere and when turned on would reduce suction from your skimmer.

Or,maybe the motor has a short in the winding, a loose wire on the back plate or... If the motor was reassembled, a wire is pinched somewhere.

Turn the breaker off first, turn the timer to on position, then turn the breaker on and see what happens then.

That is a Hayward Mfg ball valve. It is on a suction line to somewhere and you'll need to investigate further to see where it pulls water from.

Your pool should have a warranty and I would call your PB and have them check it out and repair it.

The air temp sensor foes not affect your heater operation, it would if you had solar. Usually the air sensor is located in a shady area, such as under a control box so it gets a better reading. Most pool equipment is designed to handle outside conditions. But I know what you mean, I actually...

Hope I didn't offend with my strong comment. But here in SoCal, that flex line would get the heater red tagged by any inspector. And as a pool and spa technician. I would not work on that heater if I came across it in the field. Both Pentair and Raypak say that gas flex lines are not proper...

Well, ps303, maybe the gas line is not an issue, maybe it is, but the original poster says that this heater has NEVER worked, ever. So, it should be changed. That Pentair heater looks like a 325 or 400 btu unit and probably wont work with that flex line. That heater has worked for years is not...

First of all, and I hope you see my post, you have got to get rid of that flex gas line! Its too small for that heater and actually dangerous. I can't believe your PM hasn't seen it. Low gas flow to a heater can cause serious safety issues. Hire a plumber, get that fixed asap!

Yes, he replaced your old Jandy valve with a smaller one, 2" to 1 1/2". The louder noise can be caused by the pump cavitation due to less suction.

Its the water being over heated. That usually means that the internal bypass, the flow disc, or some other obstruction is the problem. Do you have an external bypass? At any rate, it's a flow issue.

I'm. A KISS guy. I screwed a SS screw into the side of the skimmer throat wall that is above the water line. It has worked well.

If you put the system in service mode the relay/pump should shut off

Did you reset the main power source breakers. If so, start there by checking the voltage out of the main breakers, then the line voltage lugs in the spa.

I've seen pools and spas built like this, it's possible. Your main issue is how to build a strong, watertite vessel, and how to deal with possible water leakage.

Also, make sure that none of the nozzles are missing.

Check for a stuck relay on the pump system. It would keep the pump on 24/7.

I think that TP is referring to the air release valve on the top of your filter.

Is the DE going into the pool via the returns or is it backing up and out through the skimmer? Check to make sure the grids are totally pushed up into the manifold. Is their an air bleed tube and screen? It could be the BW valve, so check the piston o-rings.

Check the breakers for the pump/controller circuit. The pool and spa lights are almost always on a separate breaker than the pump

Is it a pool and spa combo? I would suggest you look at the possibility that your system has valve actuators and your system ran on spa suction and drained your spa. Check the micro switch on your suction valve or that it was put into spa suction mode

The correct choice is to have the PB under warranty find the leak and fix it. Yeah, the epoxy works but wasn't your pool expensive? And the statement that the conduit will just break again is utter nonsense. What if the light conduit is leaking because of a bad glue joint?

You should have a standpipe for the air line somewhere? If you do, a small amount of bleach would help

Does your spa ozone tubing have a Hartford Loop in it? That means that the tubing is somewhere looped higher than the water level by at least 6 "

I used to be a Hot Springs repairman. The Highlife was a fairly dependable model, especially if you have the Endurol surface. Of course, any spa that's around 15 years old is iffy, but I think that Hot Springs is a better choice in a used spa than most, other than Sundance Spas.

Have you checked the screen in front of the cleaner head? I think their is one.

The main issue is, are the floor heads all working in the proper rotation? You will have to watch them to find out. Then, are they all pushing out water? Are they rotating individually every time the pop up. Are they all poping up? Finally, and I hope this isn't it, I've seen systems where...

Just an FYI, be careful with chlorine tabs! If they fall on to your liner, they can damage ir even burn through the vinyl liner

Change the impellor also, because of excessive heat, it could fail later. Besides, they're not that expensive.

If your pump just runs the spa jets, a VSP would be overkill since you only run one speed.