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Here's the check list; thermal regular, internal bypass, dirty filter, low flow problems, damaged igniter, hi limit switch, pressure switch fan or fan switch, lined up or leaking heat exchanger. Long list, but filter, flow, or internal bypass are your best bets to look at since you already did...

Those valves you have should stop the water flow unless you didn't close them all the way. The twist lock feature is designed to make sure they are closed all the way. Also the valves could leak if the gasket in them is worn out. Your pump has a removable threaded plug on the lower area of the...

The one on the left looks ok to me? Well, maybe a little too many steroids LOL!

Are you sure? Check for cracks or gaps where the skimmer throat butts up against the wall of the pool. That spot seems to be a leaking place quite often Visually inspect it or dye test it. It's an easy fix. Silicone, epoxy, etc can do the trick.

Silicone will work, but will have to be redone occasionally. Epoxy putty has worked better for me.

I like you're idea because a friend of mine did it. Black poly pipe, solar cover, and he put a black tarp under the coils to get more heat! Some Jack Daniels, suspenders, and a banjo complete this scenario.

Wow, I haven't heard the name Arneson in years. It was the name of a auto pool cleaner back in the earlier 70's! I could be wrong, but I have never heard Hayward's name associated with it. I'll definitely look into that.

Yes, remove those pins.

Well, you can't BW a cartridge filter so that defeats the purpose. I used the vertical grid configuration in the three filters I converted. Also, where you BW the filter DE is an issue that must be considered.

Yes, I've done that conversion with that filter. You add in the grids and manifold and a push/pull BW valve. A replumb also.

The band of your pump comes off by undoing the plastic nut on that band being the basket. It will slip off and the motor and face plate will pull out straight back. You can either disconect the electrical at the rear of the motor or at the controller. You can do it! Make sure all electricity...

The Intelliflo will handle tour pool and spa needs. Usually I recommend that my clients get a different pump for their water features that will give you the flexibility that you need

And, why won't he fix it? Would not your warranty cover your control system? You need to grind your PB.

A razor blade knife is a better friend! With his sidekick, Mr. Sandpaper.

Moisture has gotten into your motor via the leaking pump seal and the bearings are loud due to rust and corrosion. You need to compare bearing replacement on an old motor vs a new motor cost.

That Quickcrete sand is no good. Lowes carries it also. There is something in it that causes it to plug rather quickly.

You should use #20 play sand. The Quickcrete brand wasn't effective at al I got that at Lowes.

Hi Kelly. It appears that the leak is in the male pipe threading above the gate valve. That type of blue residue is from the leak, I've seen that before. It could also be from the stem from that valve. If it is the pvc male fitting, silicone won't fix it. It has to be cut out and replumbed.

The valve might not be bad, but could be stuck by some dirt or debris. Other than a pool tech who does scuba repair, draining it down is all I know. Hopefully, another TFP expert has another way. Oh, yeah, why do you think your HV is leaking?

Actually, for a pool pump of any kind to initially push out air upon startup is fairly normal, even the norm. It simply means that some of the water has seeped back to the pool, through the suction or returns. If you see DE or debris returning thru your skimmer, then that's a problem. You...

Success too you and your pool build! I live down the I15 by Lake Elsinore.

That sounds correct. Did you cover the pool? Make sure that you winterized the equipment.

Looks like rust, maybe remove the screws one by one to see if they are rusting, Maybe they aren't SS? Look at them one by one, not all at once.

You need the plastic wrench that comes with the filter. You should contact the place where you purchased the filter and have them get you one. Or, find it online.

I'd vote for the start capacitor. Set the timer or manually turn the pump on each day to see what the real issue is.

Devon, how are you chlorinating your pool? Chen Geek is correct. A Cl level around 5.0 will not cause the type of deterioration you are describing.

Hooray for you! You probably know that your pump and filter issues were not related. It's strange how that works.

Yes, it sounds like the heater element. Usually, you can just replace the element, it depends on what type of spa and equipment you have. Got type and model of spa?

Yes it does unscrew, hence the male thread. But do it carefully, things do break

As I said earlier, the air temp sensor is not the issue. It is interesting that before my equipment turns on, my water temp sensor reads about 10-15 degrees higher than the pool water temp due to the sun beating down on the pipes. Within 10 minutes, after the pump turns on, the water flowing...