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Ya, that's the same thing Hayward is saying as I got the 1st replacement at cost but now they are washing their hands of it. I had a Jandy that lasted 15 years with no issues until it leaked. 2 Hayward HX's in 4 years. Anyways, back to the current question. Would like to clean the HX...

1 - Inlet/Outlet 2 - top of HX 3 - bottom of HX No signs of any leakage from the HX last season. Only discovered this cause the flow control was broken. Steel pin and spring dissolved

You are NOT alone. I know that heaters are roughly the same but I had the same issue with two successive Hayward H250 HX's that didn't last 2 seasons each. I use a Taylor kit for my chemistry and am a type A so test my water frequently. I am afraid that there is more to this heater than we...

Not going to reply previous posts but I have a heat exchanger in a Hayward H250ED2 that is only a year old and showing significant signs of corrosion. I have to replace the flow control valve as it broke and am considering cleaning the internal surfaces of the tubes and wondered if anyone has...

Howdy Unfortunately my po is now closed and all of the equipment, which is located in a large pool structure, is blocked by all of my outdoor furniture. Winter is coming!!! Anyways, sounded like the OP was in my exact situation with regards to an unbonded pool so I simply wanted to know if he...

Moved from old thread HERE ATTN: @Pemolis Hello, just read your thread and I am in the exact same position and wonder what you did end up doing? My pool is not bonded and I also would like to protect as much as possible and digging under the concrete pool deck is NOT an option. Thanks

Thanks, I will have look for the chem list

Thanks and at this point it is not about getting them to change their minds, although I will pull out all the stops there, but rather to understand or at least get a better handle on what the reasoning is for the early failures so that I am simply not throwing good money at bad....I am sure...

So it is my understanding from reading that a resistance between items of < 1 Ohm is considered to be reasonable. Sorry if I missed it but in order to do this measurement say for the heater (since that is the concern) do I simply measure from the bonding lug on the Heater to various other items...

Handy is not the problem. Fortunately or otherwise, I have already been transparent about my issues with the manufacturer and really just need to understand where my issues around the new heater are coming from.

Just a word based on my experience. Refer to the owners manual for your heater. If it specifies a check valve then install one or run the risk that any warranty issues with the HX will be difficult. I completely understand and agree with the science of not needing a check valve for a SWCG...

Good point and certainly one that I can test quite easily in the spring once I get the pool back up and running however the fact is that I run my pump and SWCG 24/7 (probably a discussion for another forum) so the only time there is no flow is when I backwash etc and I always switch off the SWCG...

Plus a really easy way to get around warranty concerns...too bad really

Ya, unfortunately it is still in the heater manuals but a good "tid-bit" for the discussion

I appreciate the feedback that I have been getting in the forums and have found them to be very useful (y). I have been having HX corrosion issues since the installation of a new replacement heater in 2019 92 HX replacements)...another forum and another time... I know that the manufacturer is...

I appreciate the feedback that I have been getting in the forums and have found them to be very useful (y). I have been having HX corrosion issues since the installation of a new replacement heater in 2019 92 HX replacements)...another forum and another time... I know that the manufacturer is...

Hi Folks, I appreciate the feedback that I have been getting in the forums and have found them to be very useful (y). I have been having HX corrosion issues since the installation of a new replacement heater in 2019 92 HX replacements)...another forum and another time... I know that the...

Hmmm, ok so if this is the problem then is it likely that high sulphates would go unrecognized in a "balanced" pool? If no, what typical attribute would have been off? Is there a way to determine definitely if the sulphates are in fact higher than would be ideal?

Ok, so that is the sulphate issue but would you not think that in order to create the current situation and in order to have that much of an excess in sulphates that the pH would test out at very low? If not using sodium bisulphate to lower pH what is the preferred addition?

Perhaps but that might be a stretch as I really don't keep many chemicals and those that I do are tightly sealed due to grandkids

Although this does not explain the rapid destruction of the bypass valve components...:unsure:

Ok, here's another thought....with the bypass valve being broken (no idea for how long but clearly it disintegrated , see pic) the incoming water is not being forced into the HX and as such can just freely exit through the outlet. Do you see any issues with: 1 - backflow from the SWG or Cl...

Sorry, the HX and heater all still functioned normally when I closed the pool so no destructive examination is possible. Need to replace the bypass valve and components for sure and maybe bottle brush the HX tubes?

1 - Sulfates? Could you please elaborate? 2 - Would the old and new heaters be that drastically different to cause the air flow to be this drastic of an issue? 3 - Why an issue now and not previously? I know that I sound like a broken record but I have run my pool in the same manner and the old...

I am just foolish to throw another $1500 at another HX without first determining what the issue is

James, No changes in the neighborhood over the 33 years we have been here. Would an electrician be able to measure the different potentials of the equipment in the shed. And again I wonder if there is any benefit of bonding all the equipment in the building or could I be making it worse by...