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Just an observation. Asking if a gif is helpful to the broader objectives of TFP when espousing Algaecide use in direct contravention of TFP protocols is rather ironic.

FWIW, my TA and pH are stable at 80 and 7.8. It’s happy and so am I. What’s recommended to lower pH/TA is MA.

I’m no expert but I’d say the pool saw its useful life. Rust is a continuous process that really can’t be abated. It’s only going to get worse and eventually fail.

https://intheswim.com/p/a-frame-above-ground-pool-ladder-sla-t/377700.html I cut off the backside to attach to the deck. The rungs slide on and off in a track, and that’s the only place where algae isn’t immediately visible. Rungs slide out easily. For added stability I bolted the frame to the...

I don’t have an intricate egress system; just a simple ladder. It’s just simply amazing where algae hides, though. I have it screwed into the deck so I have no problems with floating steps with awkward air or water reservoirs. Not as pretty as the stairs but far easier. 😜

Is your trademarked pooler available?

I need to add an auto fill. Unreeling and feeling a hose isn’t the end of the world, but what the heck. I have a healthy to-do-list for next season.

I’m sure Dirk has a trademark on it. 🙃

This may help. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/no-it-is-not-the-intex-swg-cell-no-it-is-not-a-broken-intex-swg-unit-its-just-a-little-corrosion.239634/

Definitely the winter winds will have a field day with an empty pool of that size. That’s asking for trouble, IMHO.

Wait until your FC is below 10 then check your pH. FC levels over 10 skew the pH results. 63 for CYA needs rounded up to 70 if using the TF-Pro kit.

That’s a great idea. I’d definitely become a sustaining member much like I do with NPR.

I added some bracing to the cheap ladder that came with the pool. I had to modify the ladder to fit and work with the deck when it was added. Been meaning to do it for a while and had the time to do it today. The best part was the ladder was algae-free inside and out. 👍

I did myself twice this year. Repeating 10ml is essential.

Unless your covered porch is climate controlled it could very well affect the reagents. Direct sunlight is a problem which it sounds like you don’t have. High ambient temperatures also contribute to reagent degradation. Think of medication storage. Dark and not too hot or cool.

You’re just fine. You can dial down your SWCG some and FC demand is now lower, as @Newdude mentioned.

My TA and pH has been stable since day 1 at 80 and 7.8. I had to add a small amount of acid once this year. I am lucky my fill water from the tap is happy.

I was gone for a week and returned late afternoon yesterday. Checked chlorine levels yesterday. SWCG performed as expected and kept FC well above minimum. Vacuumed and ran most of the tests today. Didn’t check CH. All are where I left them. 👍

I’m still using my Early Spring 2008 MBP. I purchased it used on eBay and placed a SSD in it. It’s still a hot rod of sorts. Boots in less than 30 seconds.

https://www.amazon.com/DNA-MOTORING-Automotive-Hydraulic-TOOLS-00355/dp/B0CT8P2LQN/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=3GLA9DAYBSDW7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.AkbZTMp9DMl9rmls_MB7jAsByqlDgokoVL2vcX6KaePcolQcq3W6AyoWbC9jnkARZqB8Els2a4r5SLW3vpRbyQIbIwAzojSZ19yzSn8Ut3zoFOxK_P6sDeRnPBQI92BLokkHu35R1IgV5dGSLxfCwz1pn0u5nB...

It was 40 overnight here and it’s headed east. by Wednesday it will be back in the high 80s. I suspect I’ll be closing when I plant my garlic.

Or unless you’re walking the tightrope.

You can’t do anything other than add 5ppm until you get a proper test kit. I was just answering the question you asked regarding confirming it’s algae. My mistake for not quoting your question.

Seriously, use a scale that has tare function. Nothing fancy, just a food scale will suffice.

You’d have to perform an overnight chlorine loss test with a FAS-DPD test kit to confirm or deny the presence of algae in your pool. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/perform-the-overnight-fc-loss-test-oclt/

My Intex unit has kept my pool clean and clear all season. I check my levels 2-3 times a day just to make sure I didn’t screw something up. As @Mdragger88 mentioned, you have to have an appropriately sized unit for your volume regardless of brand.

This year I plan on using 12 empty chlorine jugs filled 75% water hanging from mini bungees. Won’t have the need to crank down the wire near as tight. I expect it to keep standing water to a minimum. It got old siphoning the water all winter long.

What I can say is you’ll want your CYA to be no higher than 60 and that puts at the top end of the range for LC maintenance. Based on your last CYA test you’ll need at least a 75% exchange, and likely more...