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I hold the vial under the water faucet until it is clear, then dump it in my hand and do the next test. Rinsing with pool water first.

You can, some people find it easier to match the colors ;) But I get your point. For the FAS-DPD too little powder is bad and you can't really go too much. At 10ml with a low FC, 1 flat scoop is plenty. At 25ml and/or higher FC, you will need to use more powder.

They do not have time to follow correct testing procedures. Likely they are being sloppy or just making up numbers. Trying to mix their testing and your testing and their chemical additions and yours is just going to be confusing and, as you see, often counterproductive.

You could start using the acid / base demand reagents to get a better feel for your level.

If they don't feel rough, then not calcium.

If it is safe with a SWG, why wouldn't it be if you do not. No worries. In fact, just add a SWG :D

There is really nothing you need to do right now besides stop adding more CYA. Just keep the FC at the correct level for a CYA of 60ppm. The TA is fine. The CH should be fine too.

Heads up, the test kits we recommend (TF-100 or K-2006C) are generally not available locally and must be ordered.

If you saw algae, then you should really run through the entire .

Take control by getting a good complete test kit. Then we can use the results before and after chemical additions to figure out what is going on in your water and offer recommendations on how to fix it.

That tile is really cool looking. And I agree that going with smooth is a good decision.

Sounds like easiest solution would be to just add pickets on their side of the fence. Although if the posts and the rest of the pickets are in bad shape and may soon need replaced, then that might be throwing away a bit of money. I would think they would not object to this as it would make the...

A gunite shell is not the water barrier ... it is the plaster or pebble surface that is the waterproof barrier, so I am not sure I understand whey they would say the pebble is not waterproof. :scratch:

Not sure about this. That would prevent the SWG from running when pump is on high speed. Wonder if there is a way to make the "booster" relay slaved to be on if either the high or low speed relay is on.

This is NOT what TFP recommends. If you wait for a 10psi rise that is WAY!!! too long. TFP recommends cleaning the filter when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure, and this should really be checked at a higher pump speed.

I believe there are many members that leave the robots in the pool for longer periods of time, regardless of the recommendation. I have no suggestions for what robot to get ... search the forum there are 100s of threads discussing them. I also have no suggestions for comparing various pressure...

Anything negative will lower the likelihood of a "local" high CSI in the cell. It does not need to be closer to 0. That would be a "higher" CSI and more likely to cause problems. There is also not really any "too negative" for the a vinyl pool as on the negative side there is only a concern...

You misunderstood. You want the CSI to be on the negative side to keep the cell clean. It is currently negative so no need to worry about it. Also, no need to add calcium to the vinyl pool.

@mas985 has some spreadsheets that can estimate it in his signature (or maybe he can run the numbers for you).

You are correct that the piece of aluminum only works with the Taylor vials and not the ones with the TF-100 (although they do sell the Taylor vials if you want them).

This and the other sail thread are really making me want to figure out a way to mount the sails I bought a few years ago.

The only time we generally say that 5ml is "okay" is while at very high FC level for the SLAM process. Where you do not need the precision until you do the OCLT. Now can you test with 5ml?, yes, will the result be valid?, yes but it just won't be very precise ... which could be good enough for...

A 2-speed pump will only run at ~1750 or ~3500 rpm. The GPM at each of those speeds is much more difficult to determine and the guy can't make a blanket statement that 1750 = 20 gpm.

Agree with the above, TF-100 from tftestkits.net and the Taylor salt kit ... then no need to go to the pool store. Note that if you had algae, a little cal-hypo is not going to eradicate it. We recommend following the

What is the strength of your chlorine? 1-2 cups may not be sufficient to replace the 2-4ppm of FC loss each day.

I stand by be statement with the existing qualifier: "energy standpoint" It is always going to cost more to run 2 pumps long enough for the pressure cleaner to do its job, than to run the electric robot for a few hours independently of the filtration pump run time. I was not speaking to the...

Booster pressure cleaners are the most inefficient cleaners from an energy standpoint that you can get. I would forgo the pressure cleaner and ignore that booster pump and just get an electric robot which will clean the pool better, faster, and cheaper.

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! If the cell is clean, then the low salt reading compared to independent testing is a sign of a failing cell. Note we do not trust pool store testing, not that you reported any results, but why add 5 pounds of CYA? Why 2 bags of shock and what was the actual ingredient...

The check cell light comes on at a regular interval based on generation time (roughly 3 months). It does not mean you have to clean it, it is just a reminder to inspect it and clean if needed. You can just reset the check cell light when it comes on if you are pretty sure there is no issue with...

It is still not worth the upfront cost to just get a thermometer, pH gauge of unknown accuracy and calibration, and an ORP sensor that is a poor substitute for actually testing the chlorine levels.