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It should lower the UV losses some, and a lower debris load. So start with 30-40ppm and see how it goes. I would think the amount of rain you get would quickly lower your CYA even if you got too high.

No use? No random people peeing in the pool? ? Agree that seems high, although the higher you raise the FC, the more ppm you will lose. Think of the CYA as protecting a % of the FC. At the same loss rate, if you started at 8ppm, you may only be down to 2ppm, a loss of 6; but starting at 11.5...

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! That is a good friend! :D Have you ordered up one of the recommended test kits yet? Have to keep you out of the pool store ;) The TF-100 from tftestkits.net is the best value, given the cloudy water adding the XL option would be wise. And the SpeedStir makes the...

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! ... I recommend the TF-100 from tftestkits.net as the best value, the XL option given the current information, and the SpeedStir if you can swing it as it makes the testing easier and more accurate.

No. They are completely different. Why else would Taylor give them different numbers? And people wonder why pool stores get such a bad rap around here......

Looks like DE to me. You will have to open up the filter and figure out what is messed up in there allowing the DE to get to the pool.

Well, I imagine the only desire to to prevent algae and avoid scaling. So, I would think keep the CH as low as possible, maybe occasionally lower the pH, and keep the FC high. I might have just thrown 1/4 or 1/2 a trichlor tablet in the basin every few weeks and called it good.

You need to set all the targets for yourself. The app might have some defaults, but they are not necessarily universal. In TX, I would suggest starting at 50ppm for CYA and seeing how much FC you are losing to the sun each day. It more than you like, increase the CYA a bit. Much lower than...

Your logic make sense, I effectively do the same by adjusting the my valve between the skimmer and cleaner to ensure the cleaner is moving enough. I doubt I have the wheel turning that fast usually though as I want to keep a fair amount of skimmer action at the same time. But, this seems to be...

I am going to back-up mguzzy a little bit here. In the past there were certainly discussions about the "super-chlorination" that occurs within the cell itself, and perhaps even proposed that this was the mechanism that allowed the required FC level relative to the CYA level to be lower...

Chemistry prevents algae and cloudy water, not pump run time. You could likely get away with only running for a couple hours to sufficiently mix the chlorine.

If the losses are not to something in the water, as ruled out by OCLT, then only other source of loss is the sun. Lots of intense summer sun would warrant a higher CYA.

I can't think of anything. There should be no way for a lot of DE to get past the grids and into the pool.

Please add your location to your profile as that might help us answer your question. When did you last check the CYA level? You have the OCLT correct, as well as the possible outcomes and corrections :goodjob:

What you described is exactly what you should have done, but there is no way that the dirty water should have been able to get into your pool. Waste should have completely bypassed the filter. I am wondering if your multi-port valve is not put together correctly. Can you post up a couple...

:wave: Welcome to TFP!!! One of the first things you will come to realize if you read much around here is that we do NOT trust pool store testing, I think I see that you noticed this and already got one? Which one? Use it and post up the results and forget about Leslie's testing. You really do...

http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/73192-Deep-Cleaning-a-Sand-Filter

You should be seeing a daily improvement in the water clarity. Have you inspected / cleaned your sand?

What is the problem you are having, specifically? Pictures might help. Mine uses just a ball float valve and spigot. It is not the tall shaft float valve. I also have a bucket that is 8-10" diameter, so perhaps that type of valve will not fit in your.

Turn over is a meaningless parameter. As is flow rate. Many people run their pump at low speeds around 1100rpm 24/7. But you may need higher for other reasons like chlorine generating, heater, skimming, etc..

Yes use liquid chlorine to get the FC up asap. You should really stop using the tablets if your CYA is really that high. You only need the SLAM process of you see algae, or your water turns cloudy, or you get significant CC showing up.

Evaporation and refill will not lower the CYA. Do you get enough rain to offset the CYA rise? Hot water and a lot of sun can lead to some degradation of the CYA in the pool. Perhaps up around 10ppm per month. There is no separate chart. The FC / CYA relationship is valid regardless of the...

You will need to increase run time. How long depends on how big of a SWG you get and what your typical daily losses are.

Should not be any issue. Just be sure to test the salt level before add more, you will not be starting at 0.

You need to keep your FC much higher than 1-2ppm. Don't believe the ozone hype. You need to follow the to ensure the water stays safe and clear. Of course at this point you should replace water and follow the .

Funny that everyone wants something different than they have expecting better. There is another current thread of someone looking to switch from Circupool. They are can have problems, but the hayward's are well known due to marketshare.

Similar situation where control panel is broken. I hate having to buy and add the 12.5% bleach everyday. Can't wait to get the box fixed.

I wish I could get one for free. Pushing $3k+ around here to use for storage.

Depends what you are trying to clean off.

Is the pool maintenance different up there? Send them here :D