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Yes that's what my MX6 does as well. That way it's always turning right and twisting the twist-lock hose sections together rather than apart. Do you find your MX6 getting stuck in corners or similar issues?

Yep been fishing them out on a regular basis with our wetter than normal rainy season. And my pool has an auto-cover, so they have to be crawling across the pavers and in through the small crack between the cover and the tile.

I have used an inexpensive (and not very high power) electric pressure washer with good success. Work from the vault/roller end, wash the 2-4' can reach, then open the cover 2-4' further and repeat. As the water accumulates on the over use your cover pump or shop vac to remove the excess.

I went with the tackle box solution also: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPQRJWQ Holds everything easily, including extra refills of some reagents.

If you have a multimeter you can temporarily disconnect the sensor from the panel and check it's resistance (and compare with the table on the temperature sensors further reading page listed above). If you don't have a multi-meter you can also temporarily wire either a 10k resistor, or the...

Assuming that 717 sq ft number is accurate your 29K gallon estimate is probably close enough for the purpose of adding chemicals etc. I see a fair amount of what looks like calcium scale on your waterline tile (particularly near the spa overflow), that may well be from the previous owners...

Looking at the Swimex website I'm guessing that you are looking at the 400 OT model -- which is indeed 2600 Gal and about 18'x8' overall but the water surface is ~6'x12'. Being inside I suspect the small filter will be just fine. I would second the recommendation for a VS pump, and a small SWG.

There is something off with your calculations. 2600 Gallons in 8x18 feet pencils out to an averaged depth of 2.5'

FWIW my Sister and Brother-in-Law built a CMU pool many years ago, it's a free-form shape with a plaster finish. And indeed he had to reference retaining wall engineering when designing the structure. He built the CMU himself, but the I believe hired a contractor to install the plaster...

Not having space for anything close to a 25 yard pool, we went with a quite small pool (9'x16' swimming area) with a Riverflow swim current. For me the Riverflow works great. It is not the same as swimming in a lane of a full-size pool, there is still a bit of turbulence and it take a bit of...

We build a shed to both hide and protect our equipment (as well as providing storage for pool toys and tools).

The amount of work the pump has to do is the same regardless of how high or low you mount it, so I would choose the location based on what will be the easiest to service.

I would recommend starting a new thread in the "Under Construction" area. Re-post your pictures from 2021 or post new ones. I think most will say that the best thing will be to chip the existing back to the gunite shell and then a new plaster finish (or pebbletec). But that will depend on your...

To Matt's comment. Generally low-voltage and high voltage are allowed in the same box as long as the insulation on all the wiring is rated for the highest voltage in the box. So make the runs from the transformer the the relays and back with THHN wire of the appropriate gauge.

IMHO anything that gets 120V further from the water is a good thing, so I would say "go for it". The question will come down to how hard it is to redo the wiring, and finding a place for the transformer. The transformer will be required to be fed by a GFCI (often daisy-chained off the GFCI...

Type 304 stainless is not really suitable for pool water. The chlorine will eventually cause it to corrode. I agree with the others, stick with PVC unions.

As I reported in this thread: Planning for RO treatment I had the Reverse Osmosis process run on my pool run back in late October. After re-balancing the chemistry the CH was 200-225 (Test the same day gave 225 two subsequent tests about a week later gave 200). Now 2 months later the CH is...

I think it can probably be made to work. Are you thinking that the pavers would overhang the water (as traditional coping would), or would that vertical surface on the paver be flush with the waterline tile? Or perhaps even be the waterline tile? How tall is the riser face on the tiles? If...

Mine overflows to the auto-cover vault, which in turn drains to the street.

Can you give us a picture of the circuit breaker, is it a GFCI (it should be). Mechanically there is no difference between the timer tripping the switch in the timer and you manually flipping it, I can't imagine any fault in the timer that could give the symptoms you describe. But is it...

That is indeed pretty badly cooked. It is possible that the root cause was corrosion on the spade connectors which in turn caused the connection to fail and heat up. If that is the case, and if you are good with a soldering iron, you might be able to replace the connectors and all will be...

You should start a new thread with your questions. Yes standard Schedule 40 PVC pipe, fitting, primer and glue are what is normally used for pools. When purchasing fitting be sure you are buying Schd 40 fittings and not "DWV" fittings. The latter are not rated for pressure. If you buy your...

Traditional "plumber's putty" might do what you want. (The stuff normally used to seal between faucets and similar fixtures and the countertop) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Off-white-Plumbers-Putty/4754110

You might check with your structural engineer and see if the top out-side edge of the bond beam could have a 2"x2" 45 degree chamfer. That should allow you install the pavers up to the edge of the coping, with the appropriate expansion gap. The other thought is a 2" wide strip of paver...

What's the rating on the current breaker in the main panel and/or can you tell what gauge wire the run is? If it is just a 20A breaker and 12G wire then I would agree your modified option 3 is probably best and I'm pretty sure would meet the NEC requirements. If the existing feed is greater (eg...

How do Borates factor into that? I note that somewhere in these pages I saw the recommendation to lower TA before adding borates because it will take more Acid to do so after. I assume that was because it generally will take more acid to lower pH an given amount due to the additional...

I think that Craig's sweep is the original Jandy part: https://www.amazon.com/Zodiac-SEFL1002-2-Inch-Replacement-Filters/dp/B008E6RMVW It certainly looks identical to my own installation (and the sweep on my pump has "Jandy" and the part number) In any case I'd recommend using the Jandy part...

I would probably just plan to replace the whole section between the pump and the filter... You will need the sweep and the two 1/2 Unions (I think the pump side is probably the same part as the filter side, but you will want to check that.) You'll also either need a new T if you want to keep...

Just bumping this thread as I think we are still waiting for @JamesW to weigh in.

Indeed the system had a small pump dispensing some sort of anti-scaling agent from a barrel in the truck into the line running to the membranes, but I don't know exactly what it was. And yes the plumbing was fairly complicated, more that I could follow by casual observation. It appeared that...