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I could imagine using something like a farm jack to pull them up but actually leveling everything back is a different story.

As long as not in contact with the liner I would rather use stone dust rather than sand. Sand has a bad habit of washing away. How did you level everything back?

I noticed on my RJ-30+ any setting bellow 50% has really long off cycles. Seems that starting at 50% the off cycles (if any) are barely noticeable. Running my system @ 50% over 6 hours seems to consistently produce 1 ppm of extra chlorine than running it @ 25% over 12 hours (tested on 6...

Still better than the traditional Hayward’s 3 months legal warranty if you DIY.

I don’t think you can get away without a complete tear down. Even if you tear it down the soil will no longer be undisturbed. Leveling the ground in a way that the pool would keep its relative height to the deck may be quite challenging as the conventional recommendation would be to dig down...

You could get your FC to SLAM level right before leaving and test/add chlorine once you get back. Depending on your CYA level the SLAM level FC can accommodate a daily loss of about 4ppm. I would not do this in the long term. You should look into a SWG as a more permanent solution.

There are plenty of steel pools advertised as semi-unground … I personally wouldn’t burry steel… even completely above ground pool can rust. A bump in front of the upright gives the impression the soil on the end of the under channel right under the upright either sunk, washed away or...

Do you know the manufacturer of your pool? You might be able to find the manual of your specific pool online. That manual I got from the website of The Pool Factory (store). It was from a random pool just to give an idea of what that is. Do you have a “bump” in the bottom of the pool in front...

That tube is the under channel that the straight section upright will connect to it and a steel plate will connect it to the under channel of the other uprights in the same side. It is likely to be connected with a steel strap to the under channel of the upright on the opposite side of the...

I don’t think Richard is still active…. You might be looking for this: https://www.qcaa.qld.edu.au/downloads/senior/snr_chemistry_07_ass_chlorine.pdf

If you are DIYing and don’t care about automation then Circupool has the most DIY friendly warranty. Getting a RJ-?? from discountsaltpool.com with the $10 upgrade is the way to go. If you want to have automation then stick with the brand of your automation/existing pool equipment. Edit: if...

Best is relative. The material of the pool will make no difference for the SWG. Are you DIYing or hiring someone? Any automation?

Yes. The higher the FC for your CYA level the higher the chlorine loss. Not a constant, but not linear either (so not a %). The are several old discussing on The Deep End about the subject.

Yes, with the exception that “Pool Stabilizer” is no likely to be CYA than chlorine.

The area where the chemical was dumped will have a higher concentration of it… Chlorine can bleach vinyl, fiber and plaster. MA can corrode the plaster (not sure about fiber and vinyl, but can’t be good). The actual damage depends at lot on how the chemicals are dumped in the water. I...

Yes it does look like the uprights are curving down “under” the wall …. but the bottom railing is also twisted due to what I believe to be lack of support under the railing. It might very well be more than one thing.

BTW…. What I believe is happening there is the railing is running lower than the concrete blocks supporting the uprights. If I’m correct the wall is being pushed up by the upright as the railing settles over the stone. Not a good position to be. Do you know why the pool was built over crushed...

What is supporting the bottom railing? It seems all you have is crushed stone… no undisturbed soil… is that right? Do you have a very long level? If so check if concreted pad and base of the railing are at the same level… you likely will need to use another block (concrete/wood) to triangulate...

The “only” thing special about adding chemicals is front of a return is that will mix them really fast rather than leaving the chemicals in high concentrations in one place in the pool in a way they can cause damage.

The question here is what else you store in the garage? Bleach by it self is not that dangerous. But it can react with other stuff quite easily.

Can you clear some of that stone and take additional pictures showing the concrete blocks and how the bottom railing is connecting to the base of the upright?

Welcome to TFP!!! Check if the wall is not getting excessive vertical pressure. Remove the upright caps on the area, loosen a little the ledge caps (avoid removing is possible) and try to relief some of the pressure of the top raking over the wall. If that does work than it is likely your...

In addition to what was already said, if you want to shock because you suspect something is going on then you should do an .

There are few brands of ice melt calcium chloride is pure enough to be used on the pool. It comes in 40lb bags. The challenge is finding the pure stuff.

Welcome to TFP!!! I hope you friend already told about the test kit you are going to need. See . Have you ever tested your well water for iron? That is always a concern for well water. It is manageable, but better to know without big surprises. Recommend reading...

Welcome to TFP!!! Recommend reading: https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/what-is-tfpc/ https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/category/pool-school/pool-care-basics/

How is your FC holding? How about CCs? As stated above the FC at SLAM level is not an issue. Cloudiness can be a drowning hazard if you can't see the bottom. If you are still burning thru chlorine and/or have high (above 1ppm) CC you may have some eye irradiation due to CC (not due to FC at...

As a side note, because concentration of LC it is much more difficult to overt shot chlorine when using LC than any form of granular shock (Dichlor/Cal-Hypo).

Yes, but if SLMAming and having trouble to maintain FC not going to be an issue. Either way some extra ppm over a short period of time is unlikely to cause any significant damage (discoloration/oxidation). How much some extra ppm is depends a your CYA, the higher the CYA the higher the too much...