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Maybe a stupid question, but I've seen people here mention scrubbing the salt around on the bottom of the pool after adding. I guess it would make it dissolve a little quicker, but doesn't the risk of scratching a liner with rock salt outweigh any benefit of having it dissolve a little quicker...

It's on a concrete pad, and anchored down to that. My thinking was to just lift it up 1/4" to 3/8" with a rubber mat between heater and concrete, and just re-punch the anchors thru that into the concrete. Think that's a problem? No way for it to dance around, as it's anchored, and a thin...

On heights, I think I'm just going to lift the whole heater up, if I'm re-plumbing it anyway. The thickness of an outdoor floor mat (eg. rubber Welcome mat) is about perfect to get enough height to set the new bypass and check valves plumbed in level and square. No more screwy angles, other...

Sitting here waiting for my SWG to arrive, thought I might get a quick start on planning the plumbing. Something I hadn't mentioned before is that, because the ports of my heater are lower than what's needed for inline plumbing of Jandy valves, I had to tilt the entire run of plumbing up at a...

Thanks! I’ll take a look at the plumbing, see how practical it’ll be to do it quick and easy. My anticipation is it may be easiest to just rig up without it for now, and then plan to cut that in over winter, when there’s no time pressure.

I could do this, but because the pool co glued the unions to the heater at odd angles, it'll be a little figuring to get it done. Probably cut apart, figure new plumbing, order / go buy what I need, reassemble. Doable, but it'd have to really be worth the added time and effort to do it...

CYA = 60 ppm, so min FC = 4.5 ppm. Pool math has me targeting FC = 7 ppm, when recommending additions, which I assume accounts for an expected 2.5 ppm loss per day. But if my actual loss is always higher than this, will PM adapt to a higher target, based on historical losses, or some...

Excellent. I will run this way for the remainder of this year, and see how bad the heat loss gets in the last few weeks of the season. Should I just install a flow gauge, so I can actually dial overnight pump speed near minimum flow rate requirement of the SWG? Right now, I have no idea and...

My "plan B" was to cut where I drew this red line: I can install new 1.5" unions here, if I use a 2" reducer to grab the OD of the check valve output port. They also wanted me to re-install that Jandy valve as a bypass around the heater, which would take a lot more cutting and...

What's kind of funny is that this was my original plan, described a few pages back. I'm not going to go hunt for it, doesn't really matter who said it, but at least one person here told me it was a bad plan. I guess their reasoning might have been that the bypass valve opens up the possibility...

I'm not sure my pump will be real happy running off a timer, I can't even imagine what it would do to the real-time clock in the pump. The CSR seems like a better solution for a VS pump with an RTC, don't you think?

SWCG is not here yet, but probably will be next week. Just figured that, if the goal is to sneak up on ideal value by doing a bag or two per day, it couldn't hurt to start adding the salt a little early. I'll have to do a little planning with fittings, figure out exactly how I want to cut it...

Excellent! So, I guess I need about 360 lb. of salt to get up to 3500 ppm. Should I just start adding it now, maybe a bag or two per day, until I'm up to target? Debating on best method of adding, such as dissolving in a separate bucket before pouring in, versus just dumping whole bags of...

Thanks! I usually drain down about 3500 gallons in winter, as that gets the water below my skimmer, lights, and returns. It's also the size of the water truck that can back up my driveway, without much trouble. By my math, 3750 gallons will get me from 60 ppm to 45ppm on a 15k gallon pool, so...

My CYA is presently at 60 ppm, and pool math is telling me to get it down to 45'ish. With the 4" of rain we got last weekend, and then a bit more last night, the pool is within an inch of the top of the skimmer opening. But we have a week of "hot and dry" in the forecast, so maybe not the best...

What's the guideline or basis for these numbers? I'd like to understand so I can adjust for future events of various size.

Wow. Still gotta get used to these numbers. o_O I had a party with 10+ people in the pool last year, and we kept the Frog dialed to FC = 1.0 ppm. I shocked with Oxy-Out the next day, just because, but no issues.

Okay, I guess I understand your comments before about half-slamming the pool before a party, a little better now. Sunday, I think there will be 5 teens in the pool for probably 3+ hours. I'm at CYA = 60. Where should I set FC before they come? I'm not sure if my "man hours" is a good metric...

Well, I'll answer my own thread, just in case anyone else comes across this problem. The connector at the back of the Treo light was corroded and wet, after just 11 months. Possible factors: 1. My installers did not use PVC cement on the conduit, they just dry-fit it, so it's full of nasty...

Okay TFP Experts. My first few days on the TFP / Pool Math method, and my chlorine loss seems to be much higher than I expected. Maybe this is normal? I added 111 oz. of 10% yesterday (per Pool Math), getting up to 7 ppm, but 24 hours later I'm back down to FC = 3.6 ppm and it's calling for...

I'm also seeing the logs all converting to 6%. So, if I add 29 oz. at 10%, the log shows 48 oz. at 6%. Not a huge problem, but kinda weird. If converting to some standard basis, wouldn't it make more sense to just make it 100%, for easier figuring in ppm? Pro version of app on iPhone 15 Pro...

Another toy to build! I don't have any spare 110V pumps around, only a 12V and a big PTO crop sprayer pump, both of which run off my tractor. But I'm sure I could pick up a sump pump this weekend. I am a bit confused about the concern over taxing the pool pump, though. If we oversized the...

Yep. Sorry, we may be crossing acronyms. My TH = 260 ppm is "total hardness", as that's what's typically measured on potable water. I haven't measured the CH of my water supply yet. TH ~ CH + MH

Oh, yeah... sorry. When I can't decide if it's 140 or 150, as the color change is too faint to say for sure, I just pick the value between. There was a very faint color change at 15 drops... so 140 ppm. Then I added one more drop, and I *think* I might have seen it change a bit more... so 150...

Also, take note that I'm an engineer. Give me a measurement tool, and you're going to have to peel it out of my dead cold fingers. Turning it off goes against every fiber of my being. :ROFLMAO:

Yeah, I know FC will always need a range, it's up and down every day. I really meant pH, TA, and CYA. If working up from below with fresh water, my simple math on corrective measures always nails the target, at least to within my ability to measure it. So, if TA = 110 is better than TA = 80...

I keep a solar cover on the pool most of the time, and I only ever smell chlorine when first removing that, at the lower FC targets I was running. I suspect what we mostly smell is CC, and that probably builds up under the solar cover.