Questions about adding chlorine tablets

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sysdtc1988

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Sep 10, 2015
11
Houston
I just bought a house with a pool. I know basically nothing about pools. I tested my pool water at a pool store. It showed that there was 0 chlorine. So I bought some chlorine tablets. When I opened the tablet tower, it was full of chlorine tablets. (See pics below) It seems like it has stopped working for a long time. (Fyi I run my filter 8 hours a day). The control valve was on when I first saw it. There are two other valves nearby which are off. Should I turn those valves on? How do I make the tablet tower work? Thanks.
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Hello and welcome. :wave: Since you are new to pools, we probably should bring you up to speed on a couple very important items related to your question. First, we here at TFP highly discourage the use of tablets because they tend to raise your CYA (stabilizer) level to an unmanageable level. Before you know it, you will have no choice but to do partial drains of the pool to replace the water which is the only way to lower CYA. When you need to raise free chlorine (FC) do it with REGULAR liquid bleach. Generic from Wal-Mart of HEB is fine. About $2.98 a jug. Pour it in slowly at your return jets with the pump running for at least 30 min and you're fine. Easy. You should also be familiar with this list of Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals for your pool. This is ALL you need.

Next, Golden rule - Avoid the pool store for testing, advice, or products. You simply won’t get the advice/service you deserve and you will waste money on products your pool doesn’t need. Do not add anything to your pool other than what is advocated by the TFP site or its experts. You’ll have a happier pool, spend less time maintaining your pool, and probably save some $$ in the process.

As for your in-chlorinator, on the rare occasion you may need to use it (like on vacation) you simply adjust the output with that small knob at the bottom. Mine has the same thing. The larger black 2 & 3-way valves distribute and/or shut-off water to other areas such as a spa, water feature, skimmer/main drain, etc.

And finally, make sure you have one of the recommended test kits (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006) as well (link below). It is an absolute “must” to obtain the proper chemical readings before you can treat your pool. Accurate test readings serve as the foundation for everything you do from this point forward and the advice you receive on this site. Test strips and pool store tests are unreliable at best.

Welcome to TFP!
 
Welcome to TFP forums. You have to the right place for assistance and instruction on how to truly manage and enjoy your pool.

As to your chlorinator issues, please heed the advice above to be aware those tabs will put your stabilizer level through the roof and ultimately result in frustration. Temporary use is okay while you are away at times, but plain bleach is where you want to be.

Based on your third picture it looks like the jandy valve closest to the chlorinator is closed and therefore no water is reaching the unit for it to work. You should determine where that outlet/return pipe goes. Posting a full picture of the whole equipment setup would help with that. Moving that handle counter clockwise 1/4 turn will open up the pipe to the chlorinator (pointing the 'off' tab to a pipe cuts off the flow in that direction). Turn the pump off before you do this and put the lid on the unit. Observe what changes occur in water flow at the pool.

I will second the recommendation to get one of the recommended test kits to ensure your ongoing pool management is a success.
 
Texas Splash said:
Hello and welcome. :wave: Since you are new to pools, we probably should bring you up to speed on a couple very important items related to your question. First, we here at TFP highly discourage the use of tablets because they tend to raise your CYA (stabilizer) level to an unmanageable level. Before you know it, you will have no choice but to do partial drains of the pool to replace the water which is the only way to lower CYA. When you need to raise free chlorine (FC) do it with REGULAR liquid bleach. Generic from Wal-Mart of HEB is fine. About $2.98 a jug. Pour it in slowly at your return jets with the pump running for at least 30 min and you're fine. Easy. You should also be familiar with this list of Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals for your pool. This is ALL you need.

Next, Golden rule - Avoid the pool store for testing, advice, or products. You simply won’t get the advice/service you deserve and you will waste money on products your pool doesn’t need. Do not add anything to your pool other than what is advocated by the TFP site or its experts. You’ll have a happier pool, spend less time maintaining your pool, and probably save some $$ in the process.

As for your in-chlorinator, on the rare occasion you may need to use it (like on vacation) you simply adjust the output with that small knob at the bottom. Mine has the same thing. The larger black 2 & 3-way valves distribute and/or shut-off water to other areas such as a spa, water feature, skimmer/main drain, etc.

And finally, make sure you have one of the recommended test kits (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006) as well (link below). It is an absolute “must” to obtain the proper chemical readings before you can treat your pool. Accurate test readings serve as the foundation for everything you do from this point forward and the advice you receive on this site. Test strips and pool store tests are unreliable at best.

Welcome to TFP!
Click to expand...

Hey, I'm also new to this forum and also new to pools.
I was looking for some basic info and I found some in your post.
Thanks, will ask questions also in the future...
 
sysdtc1988,

I am guessing at your knowledge level a bit but I think you need to hire some professional help to show you how the valves operate your pool system. Once you get familiar with what valve does what, we can help with chlorination but it will be difficult to figure out the valves without someone to assist you hands-on.
 
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