lightingguy said:
I continue to backwash and vacuum daily. And I'm keeping my filter running 24x7.
So what is the quickest way for me to measure my CYA? I would prefer to find a way quickly versus ordering a kit online and waiting 2-3 days.
AZ Dust Storm And Now This Monstrocity. HELP!!
- Thread starter asusundevils23
- Start date
I continue to backwash and vacuum daily. And I'm keeping my filter running 24x7.
So what is the quickest way for me to measure my CYA? I would prefer to find a way quickly versus ordering a kit online and waiting 2-3 days.
It does look much better. Amazing what chlorine can do, eh?
Now, let's get you moving forward so that you don't loose ground. First off, please bite the bullet and order a good test kit. You will not regret it.
Second, for now it would be good to have a general idea of a complete set of test results. Can you take a sample to the pool store for a free test? A general idea of your CYA level will help us help you further.
Did I mention to get your kit on order? It will be virtually impossible to get your pool cleared by the party without it, you won't want to be running to the pool store every hour as a substitute.
You must maintain shock level, and that means hourly testing at first so you know how much chlorine to add to get you back to shock level. But we don't know what your shock level actually is right now without that CYA result. You've seen the results of what chlorine can do for your pool, but if you let it fall below shock level you will loose ground (and with that green... your chlorine is being used up crazy fast, it can drop fast).
The test you have does not test above 5ppm, it's really only useful once your pool is clear and you're maintaining low levels of chlorine daily. The only use you have for that right now is to check to see if it's less than 5ppm. If you can read that test under 5ppm... your algae is growing back rapidly and you're loosing ground prolly faster than you'll be able to regain it.
BTW... gorgeous pool. Simply stunning. I love the cave!
Now, let's get you moving forward so that you don't loose ground. First off, please bite the bullet and order a good test kit. You will not regret it.
Second, for now it would be good to have a general idea of a complete set of test results. Can you take a sample to the pool store for a free test? A general idea of your CYA level will help us help you further.
Did I mention to get your kit on order? It will be virtually impossible to get your pool cleared by the party without it, you won't want to be running to the pool store every hour as a substitute.
You must maintain shock level, and that means hourly testing at first so you know how much chlorine to add to get you back to shock level. But we don't know what your shock level actually is right now without that CYA result. You've seen the results of what chlorine can do for your pool, but if you let it fall below shock level you will loose ground (and with that green... your chlorine is being used up crazy fast, it can drop fast).
The test you have does not test above 5ppm, it's really only useful once your pool is clear and you're maintaining low levels of chlorine daily. The only use you have for that right now is to check to see if it's less than 5ppm. If you can read that test under 5ppm... your algae is growing back rapidly and you're loosing ground prolly faster than you'll be able to regain it.
BTW... gorgeous pool. Simply stunning. I love the cave!
OK, note my signature line. I have a 44,000 gallon pool and a Triton II sand filter. I had to shock my pool (the process) when I got the house, and shortly thereafter once I found this site and learned how to shock properly.
Read this article:
pool-school/shocking_your_pool
Now, go get a good test kit, in fact specifically get this one:
http://tftestkits.net/The-TF-100-Test-Kit-p4.html
Your note of the chlorine being off the chart for the test kit you have is part of why you need a GOOD test kit. It can't measure high enough for you to properly execute the shock process.
Once you have that, and are able to get get a good set of numbers, you'll be able to properly go through the shock process. From my experience, you are looking at about a two week process with the filter and issue you have to be complete.
Next, don't worry about pH right now. With the chlorine level you have, you aren't going to be able to get a good pH level. High chlorine levels show/cause pH levels. Just ignore them for now, most likely you'll be in range after the shock process is complete.
I hope you have a gunite/plaster/concrete pool, because that bomb of chlorine you put in will have faded a vinyl liner!
EDIT: Frogabog beat me... read these both and let us know if you have questions.
Read this article:
pool-school/shocking_your_pool
Now, go get a good test kit, in fact specifically get this one:
http://tftestkits.net/The-TF-100-Test-Kit-p4.html
Your note of the chlorine being off the chart for the test kit you have is part of why you need a GOOD test kit. It can't measure high enough for you to properly execute the shock process.
Once you have that, and are able to get get a good set of numbers, you'll be able to properly go through the shock process. From my experience, you are looking at about a two week process with the filter and issue you have to be complete.
Next, don't worry about pH right now. With the chlorine level you have, you aren't going to be able to get a good pH level. High chlorine levels show/cause pH levels. Just ignore them for now, most likely you'll be in range after the shock process is complete.
I hope you have a gunite/plaster/concrete pool, because that bomb of chlorine you put in will have faded a vinyl liner!
EDIT: Frogabog beat me... read these both and let us know if you have questions.
asusundevils23 said:
I don't know a better way than doing it yourself. You can try taking a sample to a pool store, but they are notorious for not being able to get anywhere close to reality on the CYA tests. And, if they try to sell you something, DO NOT BUY IT!
Oh my, yeah... forgot to mention the pool store plan. (and yes, the CYA number they give you will be suspect but it's better than nothing for the moment).
If they tell you that you need to buy anything, just tell them you already have some. Whatever it is. If they question it, just say it came with the house. Smile and walk away. Good luck!
If they tell you that you need to buy anything, just tell them you already have some. Whatever it is. If they question it, just say it came with the house. Smile and walk away. Good luck!
frogabog said:
Thanks for the compliment on the pool. It's just great having something so gorgeous staring at me every day with a big, sh$% grin lauging at me. :? Sorry for the soapbox but this hole in the ground is beginning to get on my nerves.
Ok, I bit the bullet and bought the TFP 100 kit. $86.00 more dollars down the drain but at least I won't be so irritable and well rested.
So should I consider adding more chlorine tonight? Without the Superman of all test kits to use, I feel as though I'm guessing. And I don't want to do anything to damage my pebblesheen or filter.
With that kit you'll save money in the long run.
Yes, keep adding chlorine. Add 8 gallons. I'm assuming your FC is back to zero. If you want to take a sample to the pool store to at least have a round idea of what your chlorine and CYA levels are, go ahead, but like Frog said, if they try to sell you anything tell them you already have it. Stick to the bleach!
Yes, keep adding chlorine. Add 8 gallons. I'm assuming your FC is back to zero. If you want to take a sample to the pool store to at least have a round idea of what your chlorine and CYA levels are, go ahead, but like Frog said, if they try to sell you anything tell them you already have it. Stick to the bleach!
I'd go for a bit more chlorine. NOT 20 gallons - but if you are adding 2 gallons a day you can assume it's being used up by the algae. If it's not then the sun is breaking down that 20 gallons very quickly. Chlorine is very fast acting and becomes salt when it's done it's job - so if you can still see algae the next day you can assume most of the chlorine is gone.
I know the test kit just feels like 1 more expensive pool toy. We were all there in your shoes before we came here. Obviously nothing is going to prepare your pool for a 100 foot wall of dirt - but understanding and testing your water will save more $ than the cost of the kit.
I know the test kit just feels like 1 more expensive pool toy. We were all there in your shoes before we came here. Obviously nothing is going to prepare your pool for a 100 foot wall of dirt - but understanding and testing your water will save more $ than the cost of the kit.
Think how much you'll save just having the ability to tell the pool store "no thanks" instead of going home with $150 of Crud every time you visit!
RobbieH said:
Being that you use the same sand filter as mine, I would appreciate it if you would read my post from last night specific to it returning unflitered water to my pool: triton-ii-sand-filter-emitting-dirty-water-through-returns-t36726.html . I'm still getting acclimated to a sand filter - had a DE with my former home - and am having difficulty understanding some of its characteristics.
Ok, just returned from the pool store for my free water reading. I actually sent my teenage daughter so to avoid any hard selling tactics. Aren't I a mean dad. 
They are as follows. Please provide your next step(s) advice.
FC: 5 "High"
TC: 5 "High"
CYA: 40
TA: 90
pH: 7.6
TDS: 1800
Phosphates: 200 "High"
They are as follows. Please provide your next step(s) advice.
FC: 5 "High"
TC: 5 "High"
CYA: 40
TA: 90
pH: 7.6
TDS: 1800
Phosphates: 200 "High"
Right, ok so they had no better than the 5ppm max test that you have. Probably their famous test kit...
Go to the pool calculator http://www.poolcalculator.com and enter these values into the now column. Enter your pool volume up top. Make sure the goals (bottom right - Suggested Goal Levels) are set for TFP.
At the bottom in pink you'll see the Suggested Chlorine levels. When you enter your CYA, or change the CYA number in the now column these will adjust automatically.
For 40ppm CYA your shock level is 15ppm. I would say you did way overdo it with the 20 bottles but it will consume it all eventually.
FWIW... when I suggested 20 bottle supply, I meant get them to have on hand, you'll need them.
Try this, dilute the pool water by 75% or 3/4 with distilled or chlorine free water (leave out overnight) and run your chlorine test. You could do half as well to measure up to 10ppm. But for this purpose here you're looking to see if you're hitting shock level which is 15, so your goal would be to measure somewhere close to 15ppm.
If the test shows equal to 5ppm at a 75% dilution you can call that 15ppm. Good. If it shows 4ppm, then you add bleach enough to get back to 15ppm. The calculator will be your guide, get friendly with it.
Don't worry about any of the other measurements right now, you're shocking. They aren't crazy wild anyway. Forget about the phosphates number. Wipe the result from your mind... :~}
40 CYA is a good place to be, it lets you shock at a low level and you can do the dilution test for the time being and limp along. Don't put any powdered shock or tablets into the pool. Only bleach/liquid chlorine.
Test the pool frequently, hourly. Replace chlorine when it tests under 15ppm. Don't add any chlorine till you get a 15ppm reading from the dilution test, relax... have a drink. Read pool school. Then read it again.
You're no mean dad... you're the one who wants her pool party to be the best ever and that's why you're here, right? Good Daddy!
Go to the pool calculator http://www.poolcalculator.com and enter these values into the now column. Enter your pool volume up top. Make sure the goals (bottom right - Suggested Goal Levels) are set for TFP.
At the bottom in pink you'll see the Suggested Chlorine levels. When you enter your CYA, or change the CYA number in the now column these will adjust automatically.
For 40ppm CYA your shock level is 15ppm. I would say you did way overdo it with the 20 bottles but it will consume it all eventually.
FWIW... when I suggested 20 bottle supply, I meant get them to have on hand, you'll need them.
Try this, dilute the pool water by 75% or 3/4 with distilled or chlorine free water (leave out overnight) and run your chlorine test. You could do half as well to measure up to 10ppm. But for this purpose here you're looking to see if you're hitting shock level which is 15, so your goal would be to measure somewhere close to 15ppm.
If the test shows equal to 5ppm at a 75% dilution you can call that 15ppm. Good. If it shows 4ppm, then you add bleach enough to get back to 15ppm. The calculator will be your guide, get friendly with it.
Don't worry about any of the other measurements right now, you're shocking. They aren't crazy wild anyway. Forget about the phosphates number. Wipe the result from your mind... :~}
40 CYA is a good place to be, it lets you shock at a low level and you can do the dilution test for the time being and limp along. Don't put any powdered shock or tablets into the pool. Only bleach/liquid chlorine.
Test the pool frequently, hourly. Replace chlorine when it tests under 15ppm. Don't add any chlorine till you get a 15ppm reading from the dilution test, relax... have a drink. Read pool school. Then read it again.
You're no mean dad... you're the one who wants her pool party to be the best ever and that's why you're here, right? Good Daddy!
"Try this, dilute the pool water by 75% or 3/4 with distilled or chlorine free water (leave out overnight) and run your chlorine test."
You lost me here. Please clarify - pardon the pun.
And I was a moron earlier today and added 8 more gallons of liquid chlorine prior to Leslie's testing my water. That's 28 gallons in a little over 24 hours. I hope i'm not damaging my pebblesheen or any other area of the pool. :-( All my equipment is running great, even after 36 straight hours. Am I being paranoid?
Good news: The water color is practically green-free but still very cloudy. I still can't see the bottom of the deep end at all.
You lost me here. Please clarify - pardon the pun.
And I was a moron earlier today and added 8 more gallons of liquid chlorine prior to Leslie's testing my water. That's 28 gallons in a little over 24 hours. I hope i'm not damaging my pebblesheen or any other area of the pool. :-( All my equipment is running great, even after 36 straight hours. Am I being paranoid?
Good news: The water color is practically green-free but still very cloudy. I still can't see the bottom of the deep end at all.
Sorry, you're going to dilute the test so you can get an approximate reading above 5ppm.
Take three parts distilled water, add 1 part pool water. Then test with the OTO test for chlorine. Multiply the result by 3.
I would imagine you could also put tap water out in the sun with a clear cellophane cover on it and let the sun destroy any chlorine. Should eat <1ppm with a quickness (I'd do 6+ hrs to be sure), and then you'd have chlorine free water for dilution purposes.
I honestly don't know for sure if you'll damage anything with what you've put in, but consider that mustard shock for 40 CYA is 24ppm and that level is safe for pools... It might be just fine. It would be good to get an idea of the true chlorine level before taking my word for much of anything in regards to how your pool and system will handle this.
I am very interested in your outcome. Green pools like yours usually take a few days or more to relinquish the green tint and you're saying it's already nearly gone. Interesting, because you absolutely over dosed in a major way there with the 20 bottles. But maybe it has speeded this up a bit as well. I'd be interested in hearing the experts weigh in on it.
At any rate, don't expect the cloudiness to clear right away. The cloudiness is dead algae and it has to be filtered out. You'll want to start watching the filter and cleaning it often. Getting the dead stuff out takes time and 24/7 filtering, don't turn it off. Brushing and making sure all the debris out will also help a great deal and speed up the process further.
I think you have enough chlorine in there for the moment. Let's get you settled down into shock level, or you could continue with mustard shock level I suppose, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you're at 24ppm or under. If there's any way you can locate a store that tests above 5ppm maybe try that route. Lotta pools in AZ... I'd guess you got a lot of pool stores as well.
Take three parts distilled water, add 1 part pool water. Then test with the OTO test for chlorine. Multiply the result by 3.
I would imagine you could also put tap water out in the sun with a clear cellophane cover on it and let the sun destroy any chlorine. Should eat <1ppm with a quickness (I'd do 6+ hrs to be sure), and then you'd have chlorine free water for dilution purposes.
I honestly don't know for sure if you'll damage anything with what you've put in, but consider that mustard shock for 40 CYA is 24ppm and that level is safe for pools... It might be just fine. It would be good to get an idea of the true chlorine level before taking my word for much of anything in regards to how your pool and system will handle this.
I am very interested in your outcome. Green pools like yours usually take a few days or more to relinquish the green tint and you're saying it's already nearly gone. Interesting, because you absolutely over dosed in a major way there with the 20 bottles. But maybe it has speeded this up a bit as well. I'd be interested in hearing the experts weigh in on it.
At any rate, don't expect the cloudiness to clear right away. The cloudiness is dead algae and it has to be filtered out. You'll want to start watching the filter and cleaning it often. Getting the dead stuff out takes time and 24/7 filtering, don't turn it off. Brushing and making sure all the debris out will also help a great deal and speed up the process further.
I think you have enough chlorine in there for the moment. Let's get you settled down into shock level, or you could continue with mustard shock level I suppose, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you're at 24ppm or under. If there's any way you can locate a store that tests above 5ppm maybe try that route. Lotta pools in AZ... I'd guess you got a lot of pool stores as well.
You may also want to add enought DE to your sand filter to raise your PSI by 1 to help filter out some of the smaller particles. Just add is slowly waiting in between when you add the DE to see the results.
Beamup said:
Right, I should have recommended a 2:1 dilution for a multiplication factor of 3. Sorry. It was late and I was thinking in quarters apparently.
It looks like you are way above 5ppm of chlorine which is your max measurable with this OTO method tester. You need to use the dilution method mentioned in above replies to measure above 5ppm.
With chlorine levels way above 5ppm, the OTO color sample will turn a reddish color.
With chlorine levels way above 5ppm, the OTO color sample will turn a reddish color.