Issues with Lack of Chlorine Coming From Chlorinator - Not Installed in the Correct Place?

dontswimangry

Member
Oct 3, 2022
15
Dallas, Texas
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Edit: My apologies to all of those who I've offended by not providing the required information for what it seemed like I was asking. I worded my post very confusingly.

It sounds like I'm looking for help with my chlorine. I'm not. I was looking for opinions/other's experiences with the physical location of the chlorinator.

Thank you for your help.



Need help troubleshooting an ongoing issue with getting chlorine in my pool. Unless I fill my chlorinator almost to the top with tablets, meaning about 5-6, I'm not getting very much chlorine in the pool.

No matter if it's one or six, the tablets take at least two weeks to dissolve.

I've replaced the chlorinator itself and it didn't help.

A few days ago, I ran the hot tub for the first time in a while, and noticed that there was an extremely strong odor of chlorine. It occurred to me that maybe the chlorinator isn't in an optimal place in the network of pipes?

I know that the hotter water helps dissolve the tablets faster, but I'm not sure that's the only explanation for why there's so much more chlorine going into the pool when the spa is on.

I'm attaching a picture. The chlorinator is on the heater side.


Sorry for my ignorance, but is my chlorinator placed appropriately or should it be located in a different section of the plumbing?

Thanks!!
 

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So the most obvious clue is that I get algae growing. I can get my test results for you later, but I have the K-2006C and I'm testing free and combined chlorine.

In the meantime, do you see any potential issue with how my chlorinator is installed? Is it in an optimal place?

In other words, if you were designing a pool, where would you put the chlorinator?
 
Don't

The real problem is that you have algae.. Algae will consume all the chlorine that your tablet feeder will generate.. It just can't keep up...

If you have been using tablets a long time, I would suspect that your CYA (Stabilizer) is well over 100 ppm, which means that it will be very hard to get rid of the algae.

This is why Donaldson asked for your test data.. It is much better if we can base our advice on your specific situation, rather than just guess at stuff..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Don't

The real problem is that you have algae.. Algae will consume all the chlorine that your tablet feeder will generate.. It just can't keep up...

If you have been using tablets a long time, I would suspect that your CYA (Stabilizer) is well over 100 ppm, which means that it will be very hard to get rid of the algae.

This is why Donaldson asked for your test data.. It is much better if can base our advice on your specific situation, rather than just guess at stuff..

Thanks,

Jim R.


I understand. It sounds like I worded my post confusingly. I shouldn't have mentioned the chlorine or algae. I was looking for input on the installation location, whether it was typical or optimal. Thank you.
 
I shouldn't have mentioned the chlorine or algae.
Do you want the correct answer and a path forward thats trouble free ? Or do you wish to stick your fingers in your ears and lalalalalalalala about your chemistry problem ?

If we don't have all the info, we can't give you good answers. Holding information back only shoots yourself in the foot.
 
Do you want the correct answer and a path forward thats trouble free ? Or do you wish to stick your fingers in your ears and lalalalalalalala about your chemistry problem ?

If we don't have all the info, we can't give you good answers. Holding information back only shoots yourself in the foot.

I just wanted an answer about the chlorinator location. Is that not ok? I'm not looking for help with anything else, just that. Does that bother you?
 

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Does that bother you?
It does when you waste our time. You want a specific answer, not the correct one.

You've thrown money at the problem replacing the feeder, which didn't fix the problem. Now you wish to spend more money moving the tab feeder, which is not the problem.

If you would wish to listen at some point, we will be happy to help. Good day to you.
 
It does when you waste our time. You want a specific answer, not the correct one.

You've thrown money at the problem, which didn't fix the problem. Now you wish to spend more money moving the tab feeder, which is not the problem.

If you would wish to listen at some point, we will be happy to help. Good day to you.

I am sorry I wasted your time. Please, if I do post here again, which I probably won't since I can't seem to say the right things, don't ever help me again.

You should probably block me just to be safe.

Maybe ban me since it looks like you're a mod? That would ensure I don't waste any more of your time.

You know what's more toxic than having too much chlorine in your hot tub?
 
When someone claims to have a mechanical problem and posts symptoms that are more often associated with a chemical problem, it is perfectly reasonable to request that said poster offers some verification that the issue is not a chemical problem.

That verification is water test results.

When the poster argues against providing test results it typically means they either do not have the ability to get said results (thus strongly indicating a chemistry problem), or knows said results will indicate a chemistry problem but is unwilling to tackle the problem out of fear that it will prove their theory wrong.

But anyway, I will offer this one piece of advice: yes, moving the tab feeder will be beneficial. Moving it to the curb on garbage day has solved a lot of problems for a lot of people.
 
I'm pretty impressed with the membership of this forum. There is a great core group of daily question 'answerers' that are very helpful. Some are very direct and to the point which is great. They answer hourly questions that are almost ALWAYS the same issues over and over again that on other forums leads to a lot more condescension that a certain percentage of people can't handle. This forum handles it very well and just wanted to point it out. Keep up the great work.
 
There's no problem with the placement of your chlorinator.
The most common failure with this model is the internal check valve beneath the tank is stuck shut.
There's a 1/4" set screw under the tank accessible from the upstream side of the unit. You can see the access hole in the side of the base. Back that screw out and disconnect the hose from the control valve. The tank will unscrew off of the bottom of the chlorinator.
The check valve is on the underneath side of the tank. That unscrews, may need pliers to get it loose.
Give it a shake, you should hear the float inside rattling around freely, but you probably won't.
I've replaced dozens of these. All pools store carry the part.
 
If CYA buildup isnt an issue, then a 20 inch Tab extender would triple your capacity. For a time you might be able to add enough chlorine to help.

You might not have anything to lose by trying if you already need to drain most of the pool.
 

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