Pool opening

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rjb1211

rjb1211

Well-known member
Jul 29, 2017
261
Harrisburg,PA
Pool Size
37000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
When my IC-40 was installed last year it was early March and the water temp was 42. It was easy for the cell to generate enough chlorine and I didn’t need to add any liquid chlorine. The pool is going to be opened next week and the water temperature will be around 65. Should I plan to add something to help the first few days? If so should that be liquid chlorine or one of the shock products?
 
Use liquid chlorine to raise FC 1/2 way between FC range for your CYA, and SLAM level for your CYA.
If your CYA is 0 and pH is low, CCs are elevated and TA is in normal ranges, then check for Ammonia.

Ammonia - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
If you don't see any signs of ammonia (0CYA, low pH with normal TA, and CCs are low), then add CYA using the sock method to get your CYA to 30, and add 9ppm liquid chlorine.

In general, follow this guide.
www.troublefreepool.com

Opening your pool- An easy to follow guide

Opening your pool can be stressful. This Pool Start Up guide teaches everything from start-up chemicals, covers, and more for your start up.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Last edited:
I know how to open the pool. I've been doing it since 1992.

My question was if I could rely on the IC-40 to generate enough chlorine at this water temp and low UV levels. I did some charting last summer and I could predict the setting needed on the cell by the UV level. Based on that I should be able raise FC enough to get to a good level in 2 days.

Anyway, to be safe I did pick up some liquid chlorine.
 
Ive always had trouble relying on my swg to bring fc up high enough upon opening, and Ive tried it a few times. While the cell should make enough fc running at 100%, it hasn’t accumulated. I’ve never been sure if this is because the water’s been cold, or because Ive got something growing in there (or both)

I’ve had much better luck using LC to bring FC up very high upon opening - approaching slam levels, making sure it passes an overnight chlorine loss test, and relying on the swg from that point on.
 
trivetman said:
Ive always had trouble relying on my swg to bring fc up high enough upon opening, and Ive tried it a few times. While the cell should make enough fc running at 100%, it hasn’t accumulated. I’ve never been sure if this is because the water’s been cold, or because Ive got something growing in there (or both)

I’ve had much better luck using LC to bring FC up very high upon opening - approaching slam levels, making sure it passes an overnight chlorine loss test, and relying on the swg from that point on.
Click to expand...
Thanks. You are in the same area as me so that is helpful. I’m glad I got the liquid chlorine.
 
Depending on the air temps and how much shade you get, it could be days or weeks until the water is warm enough for the cell to kick on.

Any leftover algae will be waking up during that same stretch and its advisable to be a LC pool until then. 30 mins after mixing get some FC in there. (I choose 10 in case there is 0 CYA left, its SLAM for 0CYA, or its more than min if I retained any CYA).

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test no matter how clear the water may be.

At 24 hours mixing the CYA test is valid, but then you'll have to wait for overhead sun so between the schedule and the weather, it may have to wait.

Once you have the CYA level, manually dose FC as appropriate whether you are slamming or you passed the OCLT and are just maintaining the daily loss.

Whenever the SWG comes online, thank him for his service and let it take over daily doses, already being in range.

The first 2 years at the new place the SWG kicked on 3 days later. This year the temps dropped bad after I pulled the cover so it took a few weeks. You have to roll with it.
 
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