Hayward Aquarite SWG Board (v1.58) on/off? PLEASE HELP!!!

Dave00

Member
Jan 10, 2021
19
Houston, TX
Guys,

I have a weird one that is driving me nuts. I have an older Hayward SWG Board (with the Thermistor and no relay - newer models) G1-011056-1 REVB, and I replaced it earlier this year with an aftermarket model due to the board turning on and off. I recently purchased a new cell (T-15 aftermarket) and it was reading Hi salt so I thought for troubleshooting I'd give my board a try again. It fired up and read a lower salt reading and was coming in line with what the pool salt number actually is. But, now when it shuts down for the night and my Jandy automation system powers everything back up in the morning the salt board won't come to life. However, here's where it gets weird, I can pull the display off the pins (while it's on) and reseat it and it will come to life??? I've checked all the pins (re-soldered all the display pins on the board) - no change, I've replaced the Thermistor - no change, I've traced all the failure points D2, U7, U13 and they all check out and as stated when it's on the board works flawlessly??? Any advise here as I'd like to get this board working properly and have a spare with the other board.

Dave
 
Same problem being discussed on this thread.

Try some contact cleaner on the connections.

Thank you and just saw that after I posted - LOL. I'll try and clean off the posts and I've also lightly sanded the top with 1000 grit and it's much shinier. I'll report back once I get a chance to swap out the board again tomorrow.
 
Same problem being discussed on this thread.

Try some contact cleaner on the connections.

Ok, cleaned a lightly sanded and still no change. I did notice that when it first fires up, I measured the display pins and I'm getting zero voltage on any of them, but when I pull the display and reseat the 5V comes up on several pins? What else could I trace to see what could be causing this? Logic Board? Any troubleshooting tips would be very helpful.
 
Chips or capacitors do not get jolted alive.

I suspect some good contacts are not being made until you jiggle and reseat the connection.
 
Chips or capacitors do not get jolted alive.

I suspect some good contacts are not being made until you jiggle and reseat the connection.
 
Some electronic chips are switches. Voltage may not be switched on until the board sees certain connections.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Some electronic chips are switches. Voltage may not be switched on until the board sees certain connections.
I think I've narrowed my problem down to the U13 Voltage Regulator chip. I followed this guide I found on here as well and when probing the TP13 (at the U13 regulator) I get 5V and then going to the TP14 to check for Voltage going to the Pins on the board I get 5V (when the display is lit) and 5V at Pin 4 on the display. But when I power off and back on and the display is not lit, I get the normal 5V at TP13 (U13 regulator), but nothing at the TP14 and nothing at Pin4 on the display. When removing the display (power still on), TP14 comes to life. Could the U13 voltage regulator be sensitive to the draw from the board showing it's weak or failing?

 
I think you are on the right track. But what have you got to lose? Replace the U13.

The U13 chip will cut off the 5-volt supply to the TP14 post whenever the voltage reading at TP13 drops below the min threshold level of 4 volts. Make sure you have a constant 5vdc supply at TP13 for as long as AC power is applied to the mainboard.

Another way to test for a bad U13 is to completely remove it from the board. The mainboard and the disp bd should power up normally without the U13 chip in place. But there's a high risk of losing the EEPROM data when the bd enters the shutdown mode like turning off the AC power. Not recommended, unless you are capable of reflashing the EEPROM.
 
I think you are on the right track. But what have you got to lose? Replace the U13.

The U13 chip will cut off the 5-volt supply to the TP14 post whenever the voltage reading at TP13 drops below the min threshold level of 4 volts. Make sure you have a constant 5vdc supply at TP13 for as long as AC power is applied to the mainboard.

Another way to test for a bad U13 is to completely remove it from the board. The mainboard and the disp bd should power up normally without the U13 chip in place. But there's a high risk of losing the EEPROM data when the bd enters the shutdown mode like turning off the AC power. Not recommended, unless you are capable of reflashing the EEPROM.
Can you provide some guidance on the trace route of 5V to TP13 to ensure it's not upstream? Also, I've checked and every single time there is 5V at TP13 (unless the power is turned off) and the only one that is on/off is TP14. Are you very knowledgeable about these Voltage Reg's and could the chip be damaged or weak in some way where when power is immediately pulled it fails but when the display is unplugged and then plugged in once the U13 is on and stable it can function normally?