So dumb question...does it need to be liquid shock or do you recommend actual bleach?
Shock I think is $5 or $6 a gallon.... I think bleach is cheaper....
Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG
- Thread starter Enzodast
- Start date
Shock I think is $5 or $6 a gallon.... I think bleach is cheaper....
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,394
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Thanks so just buy cheapest bleach I can find at Sam's club or actual pool shock?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,363
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Pool shock is stronger - so you save money by buying and using less than laundry bleach. Bleach usually has additives that are not good for the pool. Walmart is a dependable source, but look around - Home Depot, regional hardware chains. Ocean State Job Lots in CT is frequently mentioned here as having it cheap, fresh, and lots on hand. It may come in slightly different strengths, so make sure to specify whatever one you have bought, when using PoolMath to determine how much.
Not yet .. That's next. As of now it's on manual at 2500 rpms. When it's at 1000 rpm or 1500 rpm the heater won't kick on. So I need to play with it and figure out the heaters minimum flow with this pump.
At Walmart now with 20 lbs of baking soda and 18 gallons of their chlorinating liquid
I need to figure out how many gallons to put in using the calculators....I can't find the calculator in the app only the Website. I was hoping the pool math app would have made this easier unless I just can't find it.
Paid for the upgraded subscription fyi
Paid for the upgraded subscription fyi
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,483
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
App says one gallon will raise FC by 2.9 ppm. It doesn't say how much I need to get up to my ideal ppm. I think I need to get to about 5 or 6 according to slam chart. But I just bought twenty gallons so I imagine I need a lot more than 2 gallons to start, what am I doing wrong with the math here?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,483
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
CYA is 60... poolstored recommended i slam. pool isn't green...just a little cloudy from the particulates coming into the pool after the tarp coming off. i've never slammed before...the chart shows i need to raise my FC to 25 to 28!!??!!
according the pool math calc if i put in 6 gallons it'll raise my chlorine to 17.0 ppm. how do you know for sure if you have to slam? I think the only thing is my CC being at 1? that requires a full slam? been reading everything on here...just hard to grasp it all so quick....normally i open my pool and put a few gallons in and i'm all set. i've never ever had to put in 6, or 8, or 10 gallons ever in one shot. just want to make sure i must do this before i do...
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,363
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
For PoolMath -
Click on the "+" at the bottom of the screen. Hit "Log test results" Enter the readings you took in your testing.
Click on the
in the upper right to save the entries. This should take you back to an overview screen reporting all the levels and whether they are good or need attention.
For any (Like Free Chlorine, for example) tap on the results box. Make sure your pool volume is correct. Current is from what you entered on the Log screen. CYA is from your current CYA reading. Target level is a minimum amount you want. I prefer to change it to the top of the recommended range that is shown.
Add the type of sanitizer, the percent strength, and the amount in a jug. (other chems will have slightly different screen sections). Under Recommendation will be the amount to add to hit the target you specified.
This is pretty accurate, but it is better to add a bit less, and then retest to see where you really end up, after suitable mixing time. If you pool gallons are a bit off, for example, that can make the amount to add different. It's hard to get chems out of the water if you overshoot.
For the free version, you only get to see the current situation and what you just entered. The paid ($8/yr) saves all your older entries, so you can page back through and see how things are changing over time. The paid also allows you to use the same user name that you use here, and then we can see your logs too, without you having to retype anything. Click on my user name, and then the "PoolMath Logs" button to see how poorly my pool currently is.
Click on the "+" at the bottom of the screen. Hit "Log test results" Enter the readings you took in your testing.
Click on the
in the upper right to save the entries. This should take you back to an overview screen reporting all the levels and whether they are good or need attention.For any (Like Free Chlorine, for example) tap on the results box. Make sure your pool volume is correct. Current is from what you entered on the Log screen. CYA is from your current CYA reading. Target level is a minimum amount you want. I prefer to change it to the top of the recommended range that is shown.
Add the type of sanitizer, the percent strength, and the amount in a jug. (other chems will have slightly different screen sections). Under Recommendation will be the amount to add to hit the target you specified.
This is pretty accurate, but it is better to add a bit less, and then retest to see where you really end up, after suitable mixing time. If you pool gallons are a bit off, for example, that can make the amount to add different. It's hard to get chems out of the water if you overshoot.
For the free version, you only get to see the current situation and what you just entered. The paid ($8/yr) saves all your older entries, so you can page back through and see how things are changing over time. The paid also allows you to use the same user name that you use here, and then we can see your logs too, without you having to retype anything. Click on my user name, and then the "PoolMath Logs" button to see how poorly my pool currently is.
Just did my sundown test. FC is now 10.5
CC down to .5 from 1
Will test again in am and report
CC down to .5 from 1
Will test again in am and report
Sunrise test was 9.0 for FC. So I lost 1.5 overnight. Still working to get gook out of the pool not much left. Just added 4 more gallons of chlorine and will continue to slam today. I think I need to get to a 28 for FC for the slam....so may need a few more gallons still
just hit 27.5 on FC so i'm at SLAM level now. if i'm following the guide correctly i need to keep testing today and as it drops add enough chlorine to get it back to 28 or so. then tonight so a sundown test and then a sunrise test in am.
CC is now at 0. Pool looks much cleaner...filter is working overtime to get things done and ive had to backwash several times already.
if i'm following the guide correctly as long as my CC is 0 tomorrow morning and i don't lose more than 1.0 ppm on the overnight FC test...so let's say tonights FC is 28, tomorrow morning it's not lower than 27 then i've completed the slam (assuming pool is also clear).
After that i'll need help on what's next....how long do you let the FC naturally come down before trying to balance everything else? I also need to decide when do i add salt to the pool for the first time. according to circupool's manual and a starting salinity of 900 i need about 700 pounds of salt. What brand does everyone recommend? i'm leaning towards home depots morton pool salt for $7.63 a bag plus a $35 delivery fee (much easier than picking up 20 bags on my own).
thank you all!
CC is now at 0. Pool looks much cleaner...filter is working overtime to get things done and ive had to backwash several times already.
if i'm following the guide correctly as long as my CC is 0 tomorrow morning and i don't lose more than 1.0 ppm on the overnight FC test...so let's say tonights FC is 28, tomorrow morning it's not lower than 27 then i've completed the slam (assuming pool is also clear).
After that i'll need help on what's next....how long do you let the FC naturally come down before trying to balance everything else? I also need to decide when do i add salt to the pool for the first time. according to circupool's manual and a starting salinity of 900 i need about 700 pounds of salt. What brand does everyone recommend? i'm leaning towards home depots morton pool salt for $7.63 a bag plus a $35 delivery fee (much easier than picking up 20 bags on my own).
thank you all!
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,394
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Clear is the key. No cloudiness or visible signs of algae at all. No reason to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test until the water is clear the night before. Test and maintain FC frequently.
FC burns off relatively quickly when raised far above normal ranges. It may take a couple days, but continue to monitor FC and get salt level up. When FC drops to target level, set up SWG to generate enough FC to make up for daily loss. Start at about 3 ppm, test each day or two while finetuning SWG output. Use "Effects of Adding" in pool math to set up SWG runtime.
Morton is good. I like Diamond Crystal Splash Ready Pool Salt or their version of softener salt, Solar Natural Salt Crystals. Get what's cheaper. Sneak up on salt level. Add about 2/3rds first and sneak up on 3200 from there. Salt dissolves quicky, but wait overnight to test.