PB just turned over pool to me, what do I correct first?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
rookie177

rookie177

Member
Mar 13, 2025
12
Fort Lauderdale
Pool Size
5000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Hi everyone! After a long pool build and 6 weeks of start up, our PB has finally closed out their permits and turned over maintenance to me. All readings are out of range, so what should I tackle first? Unfortunately, the salt cell isn’t working yet, so I’ll be using liquid chlorine in the meantime.

Here’s what I’m thinking based on Pool Math
1. Use Muriatic Acid to correct PH
2. Start adding liquid chlorine to maintain.
3. Add CYA

What should I do about CH and Salt? Looks like the PB went overboard with the Salt and my CH is way too high. Am I in a situation where I should replace some of the water in the pool?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0384.jpeg
    IMG_0384.jpeg
    177.3 KB · Views: 36
+1 on Chlorine.

99% of the time, chlorine should be your #1 priority. How long has it been 0? Do you have liquid chlorine on hand? If so, please add some before you finish reading this sentence.
By the way, 24oz of 10% chlorine will add 4.7ppm of chlorine to your 4k gallon pool.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rookie177 and PoolGate
PoolGate said:
BTW: What SWCG do you have that works with 6000ppm? If truly 6000, you need to do a water exchange to get that to 3000.
Click to expand...
It's a Jandy TruClear 11k - should be run at 3000ppm according to their documentation, but the PB added too much salt during the startup process. The 6,000ppm reading is from my TF-Pro Salt Kit.

Thanks for the confirmation on the order of operations. I threw 24 ounces of Chlorine into the pool just a few minutes ago, I'll test later this afternoon and see where we're at.
 
rookie177 said:
It's a Jandy TruClear 11k - should be run at 3000ppm according to their documentation, but the PB added too much salt during the startup process. The 6,000ppm reading is from my TF-Pro Salt Kit.

Thanks for the confirmation on the order of operations. I threw 24 ounces of Chlorine into the pool just a few minutes ago, I'll test later this afternoon and see where we're at.
Click to expand...

OK - so what I would do is a 50% water change first.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rookie177
rookie177 said:
All readings are out of range
Click to expand...
Your signature says TF-100 on the way. Is that what you used to get this data or are you using a different kit?

rookie177 said:
What should I do about CH and Salt? Looks like the PB went overboard with the Salt and my CH is way too high. Am I in a situation where I should replace some of the water in the pool?
Click to expand...
Assuming the data is accurate, how did the salt and calcium get so high on a fresh fill? When was salt added?
 
Also - test your fill water and see what the CH level is. If it is really high, you might be better off paying for a load of pool water that is low in CH when you do the 50% water change. Of course only if the CH is very low. You have a small volume so should not be too bad for price.
 
pjt said:
Your signature says TF-100 on the way. Is that what you used to get this data or are you using a different kit?
Click to expand...
I am using a TF-Pro Salt, sorry my signature was outdated.

pjt said:
Assuming the data is accurate, how did the salt and calcium get so high on a fresh fill? When was salt added?
Click to expand...
I don't know about the calcium? The PB ran the pool at a fairly low PH during the startup phase, perhaps the calcium leached out of the new plaster? Concerning the Salt, it was definitely the PBs mistake when he added the salt. The pool tested at zero until he told me that he added the salt, then it ran up to 5000-6000ppm

PoolGate said:
Also - test your fill water and see what the CH level is.
Click to expand...
There is certainly calcium in the fill water, but not nearly as much as the pool. The fill water measured about 50ppm
 
  • Like
Reactions: pjt

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
rookie177 said:
Unfortunately, I don't know. As far as I know, the only things added during startup were muriatic acid, a small amount of liquid chlorine, and they tossed a few tri-chlor tabs into the skimmer after a few weeks.
Click to expand...

If you have your TF-100 test kit, can you do another full test right now and see what's what? Also can you say exactly how you are doing the CH test?

Hmm..... CYA and calcium carbonate look similar. I wonder if he added the wrong one?
 
Do me a solid. On the drops, before you use the reagent wipe the tips with a wet paper towel and test one more time.

Builder must have added a bunch of CH.
 
For the TA test, remember to keep adding drops until there's no additional color change. This is typically ~3 more drops after the color begins to change.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply