Should I install a valve before this pump (picture)?

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The OP may be talking about the flap at the bottom of the skimmer float where you can control flow. It isn't really a diverter and will not completely stop flow from the skimmer.

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Also, that may not be a relevant test anyway if the MD is plumbed through the skimmer as it is difficult to separate the two and the MD would naturally have more head loss so would draw in more air even if the leak was not in the MD line.
 
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PoolStored said:
I don't see a diverter, can you post pictures of the diverter?
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mas985 said:
The OP may be talking about the flap at the bottom of the skimmer float where you can control flow. It isn't really a diverter and will not completely stop flow from the skimmer.
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Actually, the diverter is a tube-like structure that inserts into the skimmer hole. I'll post thumbnail pictures below of the white plastic diverter in my hand and also installed in the bottom of the skimmer.

As shown in my diagram of my previous post (I'll post again), the vertical pipe in the bottom of the skimmer goes down to the main drain, and there is an intersection with a horizontal pipe just below the skimmer that goes to the pump. The 45-degree part of the diverter is at the level of that intersection with the horizontal pipe to the pump, so depending on which direction you have the 45-degree flap aimed, you will get primarily water from below (the main drain) or from above (the skimmer) going to the pump. The diverter can be rotated over a 180-degree range to get what you want. Remember, this is an old pool -- 1977 installation.
Drain diagram.jpgdiverter removed.jpgdiverter installed.jpg
 
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PoolStored said:
Take the diverter out and try running the pump, see what happens.
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Removing the diverter did help noticeably but it didn't fix it. I ran it at 3450 RPM for about 13 minutes. Water was rolling onto the dome more often and with more coverage than with the diverter. However, when the pump was stopped, the level of the water was still not touching the dome of the clear cover (but, as always, was just below it).

I even tried it with these variations:
- with skimmer basket and floating weir
- with skimmer basket but no floating weir
- no skimmer basket or floating weir

They were all about the same without the diverter.

I will now take off the lid, try to feel the impeller for debris, inspect and lube the drain gaskets/o-rings, and inspect the lid gasket.
 
Yes, I turned off the power to the pump before sticking my hand in there.

The impeller seemed clear and could be turned. The two pump drain o-rings were compressed but not cracked or broken, but I went to the hardware store and got new ones, lubed them and installed. Put a bit of lube on the pump surface that meets the lid's large O-ring and installed the lid.

Added water to the basket, started a new prime and...

IT WORKED!!! :party: :whoot::party::whoot::party::whoot:

I think it must have been the drain o-rings! No air at all in the basket now! I am SO relieved that it is not an underground leak!

Thank you all so much for hanging in there with me to solve this problem! I appreciate your help so much! :salut:

I'm going to make a new donation to TFP!
 
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TwinsPool said:
Added water to the basket, started a new prime and...

IT WORKED!!! :party: :whoot::party::whoot::party::whoot:

I think it must have been the drain o-rings! No air at all in the basket now! I am SO relieved that it is not an underground leak!
Click to expand...
Some times is can be simplest of things - staring you right in the face. Glad it worked out and all is functioning as it should.
Thanks for the donation. It is appreciated.
 

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