Leak from light conduit. (Junction box is 12” higher)

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H

howdy!

Active member
Oct 22, 2021
44
DFW TX
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
Notice a small trickle of water today coming from the pool light junction box today. Looks like I’ve already lost a few inches of water over the past few days.

The junction box is 14-18” above the pool level. Trying to figure out why/how this happened and what I can do to stop it.

Searched the forum already and read things about plugging the top of the pipe. Any idea why it is now happening? Thanks for all the feedback and advice!
 
A pool light junction box installation involves placing a dedicated electrical box to connect the pool light wiring with the power source, typically a transformer.

The box needs to be located at least 4 inches above the ground or pool deck, and at least 8 inches above the maximum water level, and a minimum of 4 feet away from the pool's inside wall.

1745938728504.png
 
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Thanks for the reply’s.

Here are a few other pictures.
I’d say the junction box is slightly higher with the spa water level. Hard to judge since they are so far away.


IMG_0735.jpeg
 
howdy! said:
Thanks for the reply’s.

Here are a few other pictures.
I’d say the junction box is slightly higher with the spa water level. Hard to judge since they are so far away.


View attachment 641564
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Try adding water to the spa only and see if the conduit spouts more water. Given it’s got water now indicates it needs to be mounted higher up.
 
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Good idea.
I’m going to disconnect that wire from the wire nut to see if I can tell what light fixture it is coming from.

As for the rust, yes there is some rust there. Not severe, but noticeable. Never seemed to be an issue over the last 3 years. Pool was completed in spring of 2022.
 
howdy! said:
Good idea.
I’m going to disconnect that wire from the wire nut to see if I can tell what light fixture it is coming from.

As for the rust, yes there is some rust there. Not severe, but noticeable. Never seemed to be an issue over the last 3 years. Pool was completed in spring of 2022.
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If you’ve got any kind of warranty with the builder still, that would be call them ASAP.
 

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Bperry said:
If you’ve got any kind of warranty with the builder still, that would be call them ASAP.
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Ya I am doing that today.
Havent heard back from them yet. They were in business for 5+ years when we built with them. Not 100% sure if they are still in business.
 
JamesW said:

Am I crazy? Being my own contractor for pool? (DIY?)

Many of you gave me some input (thanks again!) on some recent pricing that I have received for our pool and how high prices are due to demand. Well, I visited with a buddy of mine that is having one built right now and he mentioned how the excavation, rebar, electrical and plumbing, and gunite...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Are you the builder?
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lol. Nope!! Didn’t want to take on that headache.
 
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Well, here is the latest.

I wanted to identify if this problem light was from the spa or pool. I turned all the power off and disconnect one of the wires that was coming out of the conduit that was overflowing. Turned power back on and sure enough, it was coming from the one of the spa lights.

I went to look at the problem light, and it looked like it stuck out a littler further then the other light. So I hand tighten it a little more. Went back to the conduit and no more overflow.

I have Hayward Color Logic 320s in the spa. After reading up on them, they have a rubber gasket type deal that expands when it’s tightened. Not sure if it just worked itself loose recently or what happened.

I thought I had this issue resolved. Went out tonight and noticed a little more dripping from the junction box. I’ll try to tighten the light a little more. Looks like there is a special tool that came with the light. Don’t recall ever receiving one from my builder.
 
The rule still applies.

The junction box is too low.

Run conduit from the mounting location up to the junction box such that the junction box is not less than 8 inches (20 cm) above the maximum pool or spa water level, or not less than 4 inches (10 cm) above the ground, whichever is greater.

Additional conduit should be run from the junction box to the power supply, switch panel, pool/spa controller, etc.

 
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Thanks for the video link.
That’s the exact one I watch yesterday. Need to buy the tool. I’m guessing the rubber seal on the light tube was expanded far enough previously. Doubt the conduit was “air tight” but I’m guessing it was tight enough with very little water coming though.

Still trying to get in contact with pool builder.
I’m tempted to move the boxes myself if the builder is not reachable. Would have to splice all the electrical wire, add new conduit (probably need to raise 6-12”)
 
howdy! said:
I’m tempted to move the boxes myself if the builder is not reachable. Would have to splice all the electrical wire, add new conduit (probably need to raise 6-12”)
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You cannot splice in the conduit itself and remain in compliance with NEC 300.13(A)….

“300.13 Mechanical and Electrical Continuity — Conductors
(A) General Conductors in raceways shall be continuous between outlets, boxes, devices, and so forth. There shall be no splice or tap within a raceway unless permitted by 300.15; 368.56(A); 376.56; 378.56; 384.56; 386.56; 388.56; or 390.6.

[Commentary] Splices or taps are prohibited within raceways unless the raceways are equipped with hinged or removable covers. Busway conductors are exempt from this requirement. Splices and taps must be accessible according to 300.15.”

If you’re going to extend the conduit, you’re looking at replacing all the lights in those affected conduit runs, unless enough wire length was left to allow the conductors to reach the new J-box location unspliced.

Edited to add…a splice in sealed conduit that could come in contact with pool water is a potentially deadly idea….
 
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