New Hot Tub Owner - Taylor Test Kit

The local Canadian Tire has this:
Would this work?
That is BOSS!!! And not a bad price!!!
Excellent - finally some good news.

We'll grab a jug of that for the re-fill. Is the DiChlor just spa-shock? We have the SpaBoss shock (and now a big bucket of the SpaBoss chlorine tabs that I guess we won't need)...
 
SpaBoss shock
As far as I can tell, SpaBoss is Pentapotassium bis(peroxymonosulphate) bis(sulphate) is a chemical compound used in water treatment, as an oxidizing agent, and in other industrial applications. It's also known as potassium hydrogen peroxymonosulfate. Which is an oxidizing agent, not a sanitizing agent. (You can search for "SpaBoss DSD" to find the chemical elements that are included in the product)

To follow the DiChlor startup process you need to find DiChlor,
 
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As far as I can tell, SpaBoss is Pentapotassium bis(peroxymonosulphate) bis(sulphate) is a chemical compound used in water treatment, as an oxidizing agent, and in other industrial applications. It's also known as potassium hydrogen peroxymonosulfate. Which is an oxidizing agent, not a sanitizing agent. (You can search for "SpaBoss DSD" to find the chemical elements that are included in the product)

To follow the DiChlor startup process you need to find DiChlor,
Thanks. Something like this:
 
Thanks for the info, again. We got the hot-tub in the first week of December so we're only a month early for draining. It's a bit daunting given that we've followed the dealer's recommendations following bringing in consistent water samples. I'm keen to learn and get this dialled in but want to make sure my ladder's against the right wall.
With proper testing and chemistry control you can be able to reach 6 months without a water change.
 
Thanks. Something like this:
Yes, but that seems really expensive. That product is $29 in CAD here. You might see if you can find DiChlor cheaper locally.

in a 1200L, 317G spa, .5 oz of DiChlor will raise your FC by 3.25 and CYA by 3. 2 lbs will last a long time as you are adding CYA. When your CYA hits about 30, then switch to chlorine. Re-read:

CYA breaks down over time, especially in a spa with high temps. Use liquid chlorine to maintain FC. Keep testing CYA weekly, when it drops, use DiChlor to raise FC and maintain 30 CYA.

Use the "Effects of Adding" function in PoolMath. Link-->PoolMath
 
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Yes, but that seems really expensive. That product is $29 in CAD here. You might see if you can find DiChlor cheaper locally.

in a 1200L, 317G spa, .5 oz of DiChlor will raise your FC by 3.25 and CYA by 3. 2 lbs will last a long time as you are adding CYA. When your CYA hits about 30, then switch to chlorine. Re-read:

CYA breaks down over time, especially in a spa with high temps. Use liquid chlorine to maintain FC. Keep testing CYA weekly, when it drops, use DiChlor to raise FC and maintain 30 CYA.

Use the "Effects of Adding" function in PoolMath. Link-->PoolMath
This is good info. Thank you. I just ordered a cheap sub pump on amazon and 100' of 1.5" hose to drain the tub. I'll purge with the 'Ahh-some' first - found a video on YT, then clean the tub and re-fill after testing the city tap water for a baseline. Sound like the right plan of attack? I'll check the local tub stores for dichlor as well.

Update: HomeHardware has this: https://www.homehardware.ca/en/18kg-dichloro-stabilized-spa-chlorine-tablets/p/7158076
Label reads: This product launches directly into the spa without using a floating chlorinator. It dissolves very quickly. I'm assuming one can just toss it into the tub...
 
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Hey, @mwhitney , (just south of) Calgary here. Fwiw, I've had a rough time getting CYA dialed in - it's really easy to overshoot, esp. if I don't wait a couple of days between adding and testing, and having to replace any water when it's -30 sux pretty hard. This leads to a lot of CYA adding/testing cycles, and the Taylor CYA reagent (R-0013) supplied in the kit gets used up really fast (7ml/test, rather than a few drops/test) - and that was after buying the bigger kit with the 2oz bottles rather than the .75oz . This is all leading up to pointing out that poolsupplyhaus.ca only appears to carry the small-bottle kits; I bought my 2006C kit out of the States.
 
This is good info. Thank you. I just ordered a cheap sump pump on amazon and 100' of 1.5" hose to drain the tub. I'll purge with the 'Ahh-some' first - found a video on YT, then clean the tub and re-fill after testing the city tap water for a baseline. Sound like the right plan of attack? I'll check the local tub stores for dichlor as well.

Mentioned previously, but the sump pump won't quite empty it - you need a wet shopvac for that. Also, Princess Auto carries (lay-flat) "discharge hose" in bulk in a range of diameters, and very nice (and cheap!) couplers to reduce wrestling and storage hassles.

Update: HomeHardware has this: https://www.homehardware.ca/en/18kg-dichloro-stabilized-spa-chlorine-tablets/p/7158076
Label reads: This product launches directly into the spa without using a floating chlorinator. It dissolves very quickly. I'm assuming one can just toss it into the tub...

We're running on supplies from Canadian Tire's "Aquarius" house brand. Here are their stabilized chlorine granules (i.e. faster dissolving) for about half the price of the Home Hardware you linked to: 7kg Aquarius CYA
 
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Well, I'm into the throes, now...

Step 1: Checked the water with the strips as a cursory measure (our chemicals are out-to-lunch as noted above), removed head-rests (will clean these later with Simply Green), put the filter single / main filter in the tub added .5 oz of Ahh-Some to our 1200 L tub, jets will run for 30 min.

NOTE: I'm 15 minutes in as I type this and there is no film build-up at all. We purchased the liquid type and the Ahhsome website recommended 1 teaspoon of gel for every 125 gallons. Maybe the tub isn't old enough to have built up any film / gunk.

Step 2: Clean the heavy biofilm out, if any (tub is only 2 months old) UPDATE: No biofilm or foam (can only conclude the tub is still super clean).
Step 3: Kill the breaker
Step 4: Picked up a 1 HP 'Foting' SubPump and 100' hose to drain. UPDATE: This worked amazingly well. Tub was drained in under ten minutes. Used a wet-vac to get the rest. Easy-peasy.
Step 5: Picked up some 'Simply Green' spray to hit the hard surfaces.
Step 6: Refill tub (and get a test on our tap water).

Not sure if the filter floating in the Ahhsome is enough or if that should soak in a bucket with filter cleaner as well.. we were rinsing it under hot water once per week while using the tub.

That's my goal for this morning... after that it's chemical time. I picked up some Dichlor, some liquid chlorine and the Taylor Kit K1515 came in as well.
I also have a 'no fly zone' shelf in the shed reserved for the AquaFinesse, Spa-Shock, and Prevent... looks like we won't need those.

Hopefully I'm on track. I'll chime back in later in case this helps someone else out down the road.

UPDATE:
Tub is full and heating.
Tested water hardness and it took 8 drops to turn the solution from red to blue (so 80 PPM).
PoolMath app suggests adding 492g of CalRise (.5kg) using a target of 450 ppm.
However, the instructions in the Taylor kit read as 150-250 ppm as a target for hot tubs. Not sure which to go by. For now I'm going to shoot for 200 PPM (adding 160g of Cal-Rise).


Thanks again @PoolStored and @wirestorm for the tips along the way.
 
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Hey, @mwhitney , (just south of) Calgary here. Fwiw, I've had a rough time getting CYA dialed in - it's really easy to overshoot, esp. if I don't wait a couple of days between adding and testing, and having to replace any water when it's -30 sux pretty hard. This leads to a lot of CYA adding/testing cycles, and the Taylor CYA reagent (R-0013) supplied in the kit gets used up really fast (7ml/test, rather than a few drops/test) - and that was after buying the bigger kit with the 2oz bottles rather than the .75oz . This is all leading up to pointing out that poolsupplyhaus.ca only appears to carry the small-bottle kits; I bought my 2006C kit out of the States.
Good to meet you. Thanks for the additional tips. I ran one CYA test and noticed how much solution it took. These small bottles definitely won't last long. I'll look for the 2oz bottles... I may have to get them out of the US as you've done. Starting to look like a chemistry lab over here!
 
Mentioned previously, but the sump pump won't quite empty it - you need a wet shopvac for that. Also, Princess Auto carries (lay-flat) "discharge hose" in bulk in a range of diameters, and very nice (and cheap!) couplers to reduce wrestling and storage hassles.
Good to know - I must have missed that point Re the pump. I ended up getting 100' of lay-flat discharge hose from Amazon. Cheers.
We're running on supplies from Canadian Tire's "Aquarius" house brand. Here are their stabilized chlorine granules (i.e. faster dissolving) for about half the price of the Home Hardware you linked to: 7kg Aquarius CYA
Is the Aquarius CYA you linked to the Dichlor? We ended up getting the liquid chlorine for CT (super cheap) but could only find Dichlor granules at another spa place - 30 bones for about a litre. The HH stuff I linked to read as 'Dichlor' but came in pucks and each puck exceeded the recommendation that @PoolStored had made for the volume of our tub. I didn't want to get into breaking tabs, etc. We'll be looking for a cheaper option for Dichlor granules moving forward... just wanted to get everything in place to address this today (Saturday).... too busy during the week.
 
UPDATE:
Tub is full and heating.
Tested water hardness and it took 8 drops to turn the solution from red to blue (so 80 PPM).
PoolMath app suggests adding 492g of CalRise (.5kg) using a target of 450 ppm.
However, the instructions in the Taylor kit read as 150-250 ppm as a target for hot tubs. Not sure which to go by. For now I'm going to shoot for 200 PPM (adding 160g of Cal-Rise).
8 drops is: 8 x 25ppm =200 ppm hardness and not 80ppm.
 

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