Pentair Microbrite Caught on Fire - Wire Stuck in PVC

Brian420

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
94
Las Vegas NV
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I’ve been waiting for a pool company to come out to replace a Microbrite since the item was on backorder.

They came out yesterday, and when they pulled they pulled the light out, the back was completely melted and caught fire. Since the wire separated from the head of the light it was too far in the PVC to reach with a pair of pliers. They tried pulling the wire from the other end and it snapped. They think the wire when it caught fire somewhere fused to the PVC pipe, somewhere. But now both ends are no longer exposed.

I’m waiting to get a call from the local Pentair rep, but I’m curious as to what the best resolution might be? If Pentair gives me push back do I go back to the builder or do I need to stand firm with Pentair?

Picture of the light attached.
 

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What pool light transformer box was used?

Show us a picture.
 
I have a hard time imagining how 12 volts and 300 watts can burn up a light like you are showing.

The internal protector should have shut it down before any fire.

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Let us know how Pentair responds.
 
If it's submerged, like mine is, it's almost impossible for this kind of damage to occur.

If not:
"The MicroBrite color light should not be powered for more than 30 seconds if is not submerged in water"
 
In my case, the light and the cable are both surrounded by water since the PVC conduit is filled with water to the same level the pool is. I have hard time imagining how temperature around the light plastic body became so high that it melted it, much less a fire inside a conduit filled with water. And yet, we have another proof of damage of similar nature that happened in another case.

If the conduit itself is damaged to the extent that a cable cannot be pulled though it, it's going to be an expensive repair, I imagine. Not sure if Pentair will agree to compensate for that, but it does not hurt to try.

It's a worrying story because I am waiting for a replacement Microbrite (mine just died after less than a year). I would not want to have my conduit destroyed in the same way.
 
Well, I haven’t heard back from the company who pulled the light out or Pentair. Sent messages and called the repair company a couple of times and been ghosted.

Will be calling Pentair tomorrow to see what they have to say.
 
I would imagine the damage is from it being turned on after the install while there wasn't water to cool it which to me is obvious as was stated above, no way for thae power supply to do this kind of damage.
 

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It references an internal protector, but I am not sure that there is an internal protector.

Maybe it is a thermal overload?

It's possible that the current got too high and caused damages.

300 watts at 12 volts is 25 amps, which is a very large current.



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It is the current that matters.

At over 25 amps, you can have serious damages to the wire and light.

Depends on the size of the wires. The wires in a light look like 14 gauge wire. It is not 22 gauge wire.

Heat is a function of watts. 300 watts cannot create that much heat. Try and heat anything using a 300 watt heater.
 
Depends on how concentrated the heat is.

Soldering irons are designed to reach a temperature range of 200 to 480 °C (392 to 896 °F).

Weller Genuine 300-Watts Industrial Soldering Gun Kit | D650PK

1725398508089.png
 
When you apply heat, the parts get hotter and they begin to radiate heat.

The hotter something gets, the more heat is radiated.

Eventually, the heat input and output reach a dynamic equilibrium where the heat gained and lost is equal.

If a component fails, this can cause a high resistance section where the wattage is concentrated like a soldering iron or a bulb filament.

A 300-W tubular tungsten-halogen bulb reaches a temperature of about 2600° C.


Tests conducted by the CPSC showed that tubular halogen bulbs of 250 watts, 300 watts and 500 watts installed in torchiere lamps could start a fire in nearby combustible materials.

These bulbs can reach temperatures ranging from about 970 degrees Fahrenheit for a 300 watt tubular halogen bulb to 1,200 degrees Fahrenheit for a 500 watt tubular halogen bulb.

 
What's interesting is that the light was definitely immersed. Nevertheless, the heat was so concentrated that it melted the light and even a part of the adapter (what you see in the photo is the Micro-to-Glob adapter with the light inside. The heat was so intense that the lens(the exposed plastic thingy) popped out and was lying on the pool bottom.
 
Well, after a few weeks of trying to get a hold of the company that removed the light (they ghosted me) I got an email that my work order was assigned to another company.

The new company came out and within 15/20 minutes told me the first company was trying to pull the wrong wire out and it snapped because it was still an installed light. They were able to remove the wire of the light that melted and the also replaced the light the other company snapped the wire on via warranty.

I have two lights in the corner of the trough where the spa overflows into (one pointing in each direction) and never noticed one wasn’t working anymore.

Anyways, glad it got replaced, but several micros have been replaced within the last few months and with my warranty only having a few months remaining, I’m not looking forward to being on the hook for the rest of the lights.

Appreciate all the help and feedback in the beginning.
 

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