Hey I have a Hayward SP2670007x10. I drained some water off the pool thru waste, capped it back up, turned the pump back on but forgot to switch the valve it back to filter setting. Back pressure blew a threaded pipe off the pump (I’m not happy with myself). So I have some water seepage where I replaced the threaded connection, which was where the pipe leaves the pump chamber heading back to the filter. I think I’m also noticing some air blowing out around the pump, which I’ve never noticed before so I’m assuming it shouldn’t be doing that. I attached a picture pointing to the threaded black relief cap, I think the air is escaping around there but I’m not sure. Anyone have any thoughts on what I’m up against with this?
Hayward Pump Accident/Back Pressure
- Thread starter kllentini
- Start date
- May 27, 2021
- 1,383
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Your pictures didn’t come through. Please repost some pics of the concerning areas when you have a chance.
i keep getting an error saying my images are too big to upload so I’m trying to figure that out….
So my finger is pointing to the mentioned areas. Where I’m pointing to the connection on the pump housing is a threaded connection, it unseated from that threaded connection and the fitting was warped. I replaced the fitting and rethreaded (with plumber’s tape) it into the the female threads of the pump housing. I couldn’t see any obvious damage inside the pump but I’m assuming those internal threads were damaged/warped as well - hence water seepage. I used some flex seal around that fitting to see if that would stem the seepage.
In the other photo I’m pointing to the the black cap at the rear of the pump where air seemed to be coming from. I could tighten that cap a bit (need to look but that might be used to hard wire the pump?). Anyway it’s tough to pinpoint exactly where the air leak is coming from and I’m honestly not sure how bad the air leak is I just haven’t noticed that before.
In the other photo I’m pointing to the the black cap at the rear of the pump where air seemed to be coming from. I could tighten that cap a bit (need to look but that might be used to hard wire the pump?). Anyway it’s tough to pinpoint exactly where the air leak is coming from and I’m honestly not sure how bad the air leak is I just haven’t noticed that before.
Attachments
- May 27, 2021
- 1,383
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The grommet you’re pointing to on the rear of the motor is a blank for an electrical connection. It has no impact on the wet end of the pump. Best guess is the cooling fan may be drawing air through it, or you’re feeling air from the fan itself. The other fitting is the pressure side of the pump, which unfortunately probably stripped the threads when it was over pressured when you powered it up with the valve closed. You can source a new housing for the pump if you wish, but it may not be cost effective depending on your skill set and the age of the pump. The threads of the housing, union, or both are likely compromised.
The air is coming from the back fan.
The pump housing is probably ok.
The PVC fitting probably needs to be replaced.
The PVC shrinks due to heat if the pump ran with no flow for a while.
The pump plastic is pretty durable and it does not get damaged easily.
The pump housing is probably ok.
The PVC fitting probably needs to be replaced.
The PVC shrinks due to heat if the pump ran with no flow for a while.
The pump plastic is pretty durable and it does not get damaged easily.
Hey revisiting this after a week or so. My connections seem water tight, no leaks (with the help of some flex seal) for now. My returns, however, are consistently gurgling and passing a lot of air bubbles back into the pool. Also there seems to be an unusual amount of air blowing out from the pump housing, which I mentioned in my initial post on this issue. I’m assuming the pump and/or housing are compromised to a degree and are drawing/allowing air into the system?
- May 27, 2021
- 1,383
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The air blowing you referenced in your first post has zero to do with bubbles in your return. The TEFC motor in the Hayward pump is designed to suck air from the back fan and push it forward towards the front of the pump. The motor is also a sealed separate system from anything that would touch water excepting where it mates with the wet end of the pump and is sealed by a mechanical shaft seal, a diffuser seal, and a housing seal. That said, the fan has zero absolutely zero interaction with the plumbing. It’s impossible by design.
The bubbles in your returns are due to a leak in the wet end. Either the suction side or the return side. It’s likely associated with the union you repaired with flex seal. Not definitive, but that’s where I would start. Find the leak in the wet end, seal it, and you’ll be able to eliminate the bubbles.
The bubbles in your returns are due to a leak in the wet end. Either the suction side or the return side. It’s likely associated with the union you repaired with flex seal. Not definitive, but that’s where I would start. Find the leak in the wet end, seal it, and you’ll be able to eliminate the bubbles.
Thank you, I understand what you’re saying about it being impossible by design. I’m just confused as I see no water leaking and the overall water level is holding steady. So I don’t believe there is an underground leak. I’ve had times in the past where I haven’t been able to get the pump to draw a vacuum because one of the pipe connections wasn’t fully sealed/tightened. But the pump is drawing a vacuum and circulating water, so that’s where my confusion lies, as I would expect the air leak to affect the pump’s ability to draw the vacuum. But thank you and I’m continuing to troubleshoot the issue.
- May 27, 2021
- 1,383
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I take it you see no bubbles in the pump pot? It’s possible for valves to have a slight leak in a seal, crack in the housing etc and under vacuum they won’t leak a drip. But they will let just enough air into the system to cause bubbles in the returns, and yet no air in the strainer either. I have a Jandy neverlube on my skimmer that is causing this problem as we speak (mine is a hairline crack in the housing) and I haven’t gotten around to replacing it yet…
. In my case it manifests itself the worst when the skimmer gets full of debris and the system really pulls….more air is drawn in under this condition.
. In my case it manifests itself the worst when the skimmer gets full of debris and the system really pulls….more air is drawn in under this condition.Hey just looking at this again after a few weeks as I made due with the issue until I and closed my pool. I think I noticed some bubbles in the pump housing and also the pump would immediately lose its prime when I shut it off. I’m going to have a professional look at the pump and housing, I guess I’m hoping it’s that rather than trying to track down the issue at some other point in the system.