Heater Bypass Automation

amindu786

Well-known member
Oct 1, 2021
86
DFW
Pool Size
12086
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Hi All - my PB finished adding the heater bypass and they are installing the actuator next week. From reading a lot of posts including the WIKI it states that you should let some water still go through the heater. Will the actuator still do that? I have an aquacal heater/Chiller combo. Pic attached of what they just did. pic 1.jpgThanks.
 
Last edited:
It looks like two diverter valves were used for the heater bypass instead of a diverter valve and a check valve.

That will not work for an automated heater bypass using one actuator.

Show us a better picture that includes the heater in/out pipes and valves.
 
It looks like two diverter valves were used for the heater bypass instead of a diverter valve and a check valve.

That will not work for an automated heater bypass using one actuator.

Show us a better picture that includes the heater in/out pipes and valves.
Please see attached IMG_5990.jpegIMG_5991.jpeg
 
Your plumber got too fancy.

The heater output should have a T and a Check Valve.

Then you put the actuator for the heater bypass on the diverter valve.

I do not know how the bypass actuator works with The Attendant.

amin.jpeg
 
Your plumber got too fancy.

The heater output should have a T and a Check Valve.

Then you put the actuator for the heater bypass on the diverter valve.

I do not know how the bypass actuator works with The Attendant.

View attachment 595624
Gotcha so from a plumbing standpoint will this still do the job or did I make things worse asking them to come back and put a bypass?
 
Gotcha so from a plumbing standpoint will this still do the job

What job is that?

It will not work for an automated heater bypass with an actuator.

Two valves makes it error prone if one of the valves is turned and not the other the pump can be dead headed and things can be damaged.
 
What job is that?

It will not work for an automated heater bypass with an actuator.

Two valves makes it error prone if one of the valves is turned and not the other the pump can be dead headed and things can be damaged.
I see so would I need 2 actuators to automate it?

Job of bypassing the heater? I think you are saying we can still do it manually just not automatic with 1 actuator.
 
I see so would I need 2 actuators to automate it?

Yes, if your Attendant can handle it. If one actuator fails to turn things can get damaged.
Job of bypassing the heater? I think you are saying we can still do it manually just not automatic with 1 actuator.
You can do it manually but a mistake with a valve can damage things.
 

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Yes, if your Attendant can handle it. If one actuator fails to turn things can get damaged.

You can do it manually but a mistake with a valve can damage things.
So the PB came back and is offering to put things back to how they were and then i go and hire someone directly and have it done how it was in the picture. I am trying to find contacts locally in the DFW area that would have experience doing this. Does anyone see any issues with them putting things back to how it was? Thanks.
 
Does anyone see any issues with them putting things back to how it was? Thanks.

He can put it back to this but if he is in there doing the work it is actually easier to put in the T and check valve.

full
 
He can put it back to this but if he is in there doing the work it is actually easier to put in the T and check valve.
Hi - they came back and put it in this way, as the start-up guy told the PB he wont be able to automate it the way they had it which is what i communicated to him as well. But the guy didn't want to admit his mistake and said well we are doing it your way, because that is how you want it. Does this look correct now @ajw22 and @AQUA~HOLICS . Thanks


heat.jpg
 
The check valve circled in red is not placed in the correct place. It should be between the T and the heater out line to prevent water from backflowing into the heater coils when the heater is bypassed. As it is now when the heater is bypassed water will flow up and down the T and go into the heater. You do not want that if the heater is leaking or if the water is acidic.

The actuator is not set properly int he picture for either the bypass being open when the heater is not running or closed when the heater is running.

The end of the handle says OFF should be on the green line when the heater is ON allowing water to flow through the heater.

The end of the handle says OFF should be on the blue line when the heater is OFF allowing water to bypass the heater. This should be cocked a bit open but we will fix that later.

Show me the actuator position when the heater is ON and OFF.

amindu heat.jpg
 
The check valve circled in red is not placed in the correct place. It should be between the T and the heater out line to prevent water from backflowing into the heater coils when the heater is bypassed. As it is now when the heater is bypassed water will flow up and down the T and go into the heater. You do not want that if the heater is leaking or if the water is acidic.

The actuator is not set properly int he picture for either the bypass being open when the heater is not running or closed when the heater is running.

The end of the handle says OFF should be on the green line when the heater is ON allowing water to flow through the heater.

The end of the handle says OFF should be on the blue line when the heater is OFF allowing water to bypass the heater. This should be cocked a bit open but we will fix that later.

Show me the actuator position when the heater is ON and OFF.

View attachment 601275
Hi - so they finally got around to fixing the plumbing and added the CV under the T. However they kept the other CV circled in red rather than redoing the plumbing and having just the PVC pipe. Any issues with this they are saying no but I want to make sure as they have been wrong. Thanks IMG_6412.jpeg
 
You can remove the screws on the clear cap on the circled CV and the cap will come off with the flapper and spring. Remove the spring and flapper and screw the cap back on. That makes it a straight through pipe with no restriction.

If they were smart they would have done that for you. Takes 10 minutes.

You can do the same on the 90 degree CV before the SWG cell. Both of those are unnecessary now.

Don't use a power screwdriver on the valves. And don't over tighten the screws and crack the screw holes.
 
You can remove the screws on the clear cap on the circled CV and the cap will come off with the flapper and spring. Remove the spring and flapper and screw the cap back on. That makes it a straight through pipe with no restriction.

If they were smart they would have done that for you. Takes 10 minutes.

You can do the same on the 90 degree CV before the SWG cell. Both of those are unnecessary now.

Don't use a power screwdriver on the valves. And don't over tighten the screws and crack the screw holes.
They have been using power screwdrivers since the beginning to undo. So I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. If I don’t do anything is that okay or should I try and do what you’re asking?
 
They have been using power screwdrivers since the beginning to undo. So I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. If I don’t do anything is that okay or should I try and do what you’re asking?
It is fine to leave it the way it is.

At some time when you are having other things worked on ask them to remove the flappers.
 
It is fine to leave it the way it is.

At some time when you are having other things worked on ask them to remove the flappers.
Thanks and truly thank you for all your help. I can’t believe how simple this was but how complicated they made it clearly didn’t know what they were doing.
 
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