Ok I will use my water sample and test again and compare that they again match to use until I get the tfp recommended test with pool store after work to make sure it’s not my test kit Taylor k2005 complete. my chlorine is brand new 10% I bought it Monday and have used 2 gallons. I’ve never added stabilizer to increase cya only used the tabs in the past so I wasn’t sure if it was bc I added stabilizer possibly thanks
Pool shows no FC
- Thread starter malstroud1987
- Start date
The Taylor 2005 is the Color matching DPD test - not very accurate, and not very precise. The levels of FC you will need to maintain using the TFP method are not reliably measurable with that test.
You need the FAS/DPD drop test to reliably measure FC - you can buy just that piece separately
2 gallons of 10% in a 25000 pool in4 days EDIT: 3 days... is barely 2.5ppm/day - even with a CYA up in the 60s, that would barely be a maintenance level.
You need the FAS/DPD drop test to reliably measure FC - you can buy just that piece separately
2 gallons of 10% in a 25000 pool in
My test kit is Taylor 2005k complete. I have checked my readings with the pool store when I have gone to buy pool pole handle and stabilizer and using kit my levels have continuously matched the pool store reading . I will be getting the recommended kit by tfp but was trying to use this one up but made sure it was reading accurately prior. This was all last week. This week my FC is reading 0 as last week when slamming it was reading 1-3. Once slam was compete and pool was blue and clear on Sunday I stopped slamming on Saturday…I was at all level and clarity for cc etc to stop the spam process ..on Monday my pool started reading 0 fc at that time I added a gallon 10% liquid chlorine nothing then again another gal and 0 fc again yesterday. Trying to figure out why if all other levels are good. Thanks sorry for the confusion I try to be as clear as possible
thefloatqueen
Bronze Supporter
Just a little FYI, the Taylor K2006-C is more expensive than the TF-100 Test Kits . And don’t bother comparing your results to the pool store’s “testing.” Their test results are incredibly inaccurate and they will likely try to upsell you products that you do not need.
Ohhh really?! Wow I did not think this I thought the opposite i figured that was too much if anything this is my first year following tfp and first yr to use liquid. That seems really expensive to maintain bs the powder cal hypo…hmm I am paying $6 a gallon for 10%…goodness..so how much liquid chlorine per day would be more accurate to keep my FC up before I get a new test kit?
Which test is most accurate and easy to read levels bc I would love to not have to go to the pool store lol
I seriously suggest re-reading Pool Care Basics and FC/CYA Levels
CalHypo is more expensive than Liquid Chlorine generally. Dichlor / Trichlor tablets are convenient, but add stabilizer and affect PH.
You need the right kit to correctly follow the TFP method....its why we keep saying it.
Right now, I suspect your CYA is so low, your chlorine is just being destroyed by the UV in the sunshine (which is why you add stabilizer).
thefloatqueen
Bronze Supporter
DEFINITELY the TF-100 or, preferably, the TF Pro because it comes with the Smart Stir stirring device that makes testing your water soooo much easier and FASTER! Trust me, you will not regret it lol. And your new test kit comes with very clear instructions on how to perform each test. And we can always help you here, of course. Stay away from the pool store
Never mind, I won’t even go into the pool store to buy those things. I order my stabilizer from Amazon and purchase my liquid chlorine (10% or 12.5%) from Menards, Walmart, Ace Hardware, or Home Depot. Staaaaaahp buying cal-hypo, lol. You do not need it at all. Stick with regular liquid chlorine.
Ok, I think I’m done editing this reply after a million times.
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If your kit has plenty of supplies left, you're only missing the taylor K-1515 ($28) part of it.
If it's almost time to replace it anyway, then either kit from TFtestkits.net is a better value than the Taylor equivalent. ( TF100 / TFpro versus K2006 / K2006C). The TF kits are Taylor reagents repackaged in amounts that make sense for how we test.
If it's almost time to replace it anyway, then either kit from TFtestkits.net is a better value than the Taylor equivalent. ( TF100 / TFpro versus K2006 / K2006C). The TF kits are Taylor reagents repackaged in amounts that make sense for how we test.
The best kit for the method here is probably the TF-100 Pro - everything you need, nothing you don't, better value that buying anything at Amazon or the pool store. Will last you the whole season and probably beyond. If you only need the FAS-DPD bit and have plenty of the rest, either the Amazon link I provided, or you can buy the refill set from TFTestkits here.
Right now - I highly recommend adding a gallon of your 10% to the pool daily until you can reliably test your FC levels, perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
( Overnight Chlorine Loss Test ) and then probably add more stabilizer to bring you up to a reasonable amount for your non-SWG pool (probably 50ppm)
BTW - a pound of 50% CalHypo would raise your FC by 2.5. A Gallon of 10% LC raises it by 4. CalHypo is about $5/pound, LC is about $5 a gallon.
Yes just went to the pool store and it says it’s at a cya 5 no idea how as it was at a 5 the whole time slamming it and then Thursday I added 2.5 lbs of stabilizer
thefloatqueen
Bronze Supporter
Those reagents are definitely expired, my friend.
Wow just left the pool store and my cya is a 5 that explains why I could see the dot on my test which only reads cya to 30 but I only assumed it was at 20 bc I added 2.5 lbs stabilizer on Thursday when it was 5 the whole time slamming/opening last week. They told me to wait to add more stabilizer bc it’s been less than a week.. can take time to get into pool I guess?! attached are the readings. the FC is in fact low and I wanted to add that it has rained here in Arkansas almost everyday off and on since we opened last Sunday almost 2 was ago, only this past weekend was super sunny and no rain. No phosphates so I guess just low cya, rain and sun is stealing my chlorine?. How many gallons do yall recommend to get FC up to a good level? Rain is supposed to continue..
Attachments
- Feb 6, 2015
- 8,059
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The CYA test is the one the pool store gets wrong most often.
Stay out of the pool store for any testing.
Your K-2005 test reagents are expired.
Might be best to order a new test kit that has all the tests necessary and just start fresh.
A TF-100 or TF-Pro - either from TFTestkits.net will serve you well. If ordered today, you will probably have it by next Tuesday (Monday is a federal holiday).
Pool Stores don't have the necessary test kits for sale - oh, they may tell you it's the same but it usually isn't .
Add 5 ppm of chlorine daily until your test kit arrives. Use PoolMath to determine the correct dosage.
Stay out of the pool store for any testing.
Your K-2005 test reagents are expired.
Might be best to order a new test kit that has all the tests necessary and just start fresh.
A TF-100 or TF-Pro - either from TFTestkits.net will serve you well. If ordered today, you will probably have it by next Tuesday (Monday is a federal holiday).
Pool Stores don't have the necessary test kits for sale - oh, they may tell you it's the same but it usually isn't .
Add 5 ppm of chlorine daily until your test kit arrives. Use PoolMath to determine the correct dosage.
Basically a gallon of your 10% or a gallon of 12% (4ppm or 5ppm respectively)
Your stabilizer didn't go away, but 2.5 pounds in 25,000 gallons is only enough to raise it 10ppm or so - and that's well inside the margin of error for the pool store test (heck, even for our testing).
Low stabilizer + nice weather = No chlorine...and yes, 1/2 gallon of 10% on a sunny day would probably vanish as quickly as a snowball
thefloatqueen
Bronze Supporter
Download the PoolMath app. It will tell you everything. Couldn’t live without it.
OK, ordering a new test kit right now lol and I will put a gallon of 10% liquid chlorine in my pool tonight and tomorrow night..please correct me if I’m wrong though on 1 gallon?! This thread is saying one gal basically equals 4 ppm for my 23k gal pool.. do I have that right? I doubt my test kit will be here by Friday and we will be leaving out of town that afternoon. That being said (my last I think)!! question is since I have to go out of town Friday afternoon and won’t be back until Monday how much chlorine should I add before we leave since we won’t be back until Monday? and my CYA levels are still not right they are still probably at a five or at a 15 at Best. Will probably have to adjust my cya next week..
thefloatqueen
Bronze Supporter
What strength is your liquid chlorine? 7%? 10%? 12.5%??? We can’t answer this without knowing lol. And what’s the current FC? Zero? This is impossible to answer lol. Please download the PoolMath app and it’ll ask for all the details of your pool and how much of each chemical you need.