My pH rises from 7.5 to 8.0 in 2-3 days after every treatment with dry acid

rdsinger

New member
Mar 17, 2024
3
Huntsville, AL
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I have a 20' x 40', in-ground, vinyl liner pool with Pentair Equipment including a Salt Chlorine generator and heater. The pool is in north Alabama. The pool was installed and operational by the first of August 2023, but the salt cell was not online until we opened the pool in March 2024. The pool was covered over the late fall/winter with pump running all winter. My variable speed pump runs 24/7, with my SCG chlorine generation set at 23%. I have been tweaking that percentage to best keep my chlorine levels steady.

When I opened the pool in March, the water was clear, with chlorine level at 5 ppm, leftover from use of chlorine pucks prior to covering pool in November. The pH and TA were relatively low 7.0 pH and 60+ TA. I targeted pH to be around 100-110 and got the pH to be around 7.4. HOWEVER, soon after, I have seen a rollercoaster of rise in PH followed by me applying dry acid to lower the pH. The problem is that i can lower pH to 7.3 to 7.5 but it leaps back up to 8.0 in a matter of 2-4 days, and this is a "rinse and repeat" story. I have now lowered my pH so often that I have burned down my TA to 65-80 depending on whether you believe one pool company or another, or my digital tests.

My Chlorine has always run in the 1 - 3.5 ppm range
My TA has always run in the 80-110 ppm range
My Total Hardness has run in the 210 - 250 range
My pH seems to "want to be around 7.9 to 8.2", as if that is its' balance and in fact using LSI (my water seems to need higher pH to be "Saturation index balanced".
But, I react to pH at or above 8 by making efforts to bring it down to 7.4/7.5, .............but it just bounces right back.
My CYA levels began with levels that came from the chlorine pucks used last summer, so the levels have reduced from the 60's to the 40's to low 50's

Present chemistry:
Total Chlorine - 2.4
Free Chlorine - 2.27
Combined Cl - 0.13
Total Alkalinity - 80
pH - 8.0
CYA - 42
Total Hardness - 214

NOTE: I have NEVER had cloudy water. The water is beautiful, but my amateur mind says, "keep pH between 7.2 and 7.8, with ideal level at 7.4-7.6, but i cannot keep pH steady.
NOTE: All of my reporting has been through period between March 8 and May 10, with very little pool usage by 1-2 adults, when daytime temps and pool heating allowed for use.

I have read online that Borates added to pool might help further buffer pH bounce, but haven't used them.

Finally, Saturation Index formulas and calculations seem to be wildly inconsistent when I compute it manually with Pentair documentation, or use Orenda App or other Apps for LSI or CSI (is there a difference?). I bring this up because if I trust the LSI formula in Orenda App, i have balanced pool water when I have high pH levels, as if pool wants to be there to be balanced. It is counter to the literature that says keep your pH down in 7.2 - 7.6 or other near ranges.

So, all of the above is to say that with my vinyl liner pool and use of salt chlorine generator, i am frustrated by my pH being impossible to control, given the chemistry levels I have the pool set at. Because i have administered so much dry acid over the past 3-4 weeks, i have driven my TA down. I also know that lower TA allows me to use less "pH reducer" product to get the pH down. But does it also make it much easier to bounce back?

Finally, I am thinking that i could really lower my pH temporarily, then jack up my TA to 100 to 110, then add Borates to resist the bounce. If that theory is unfounded, I am at my wits end for finding ways to keep pH relatively steady. I just don't think I should be having to put acid in pool every 3-4 days.
 
rd,

You never ever want to use dry acid when you have a SWCG.. It will drastically reduce the life of the cell..

You need to use Muriatic Acid (MA)..

Reduce your TA to 50 or 60 and your pH issue will be greatly reduced.

The lower your reduce your pH, the faster it will try to increase.. You should shoot to keep your pH between 7.5 and 7.9.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
You are not following TFP methods nor using an accurate test kit.

TA of 50-60 is ok as tested by the K-2006C or TFT Test Kits . Your high TA is causing your rapid pH rise.


You need to let your pH and TA reach an equilibrium as expained in PH TA Relationship - Further Reading


And as Jim said, stop using dry acid - Acid - Further Reading



 
test using test strips and more detailed testing at swimming pool store
Your #1 priority should be buying a recommended test kit. It's the foundation for proper pool care and will save you much time, effort, and money while achieving superior outcomes. For you, I'd suggest a TF-Pro Salt. Stay out of the pool store.

 
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rd,

You never ever want to use dry acid when you have a SWCG.. It will drastically reduce the life of the cell..

You need to use Muriatic Acid (MA)..

Reduce your TA to 50 or 60 and your pH issue will be greatly reduced.

The lower your reduce your pH, the faster it will try to increase.. You should shoot to keep your pH between 7.5 and 7.9.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thank you for your reply.

I am not sure i fully understood your comment about reducing TA. You said, "...Reduce your TA to 50 or 60 and your pH issue will be greatly reduced. The lower your reduce your pH, the faster it will try to increase. ..."

Depending on whose reports are more accurate, I am already sitting between mid 60's and low 80's for TA. The 7.5 to 7.9 range is the zone that my pH rapidly rises through. I am usually lowering from 8.0 or 8.1 to 7.4 or 7.5, then 3 days later i am back to 8.0. It takes less dry acid (i have seen where many are suggesting i use muriatic acid only) to lower my pH while my TA is lower, so it is cheaper for me to keep TA low. TA has progressively dropped from 100-110 to near 80 or less due to frequent pH reduction treatments.

I am told that due to nature of SWG systems like mine, that the side effect of electrolysis process is the impact to rising pH. My system runs 24/7 with chloring generation between 20 and 23% which keeps the chlorine steady in the 2-3 ppm range. I have seen other posts that talk about keeping ppm of chlorine much lower will help with pH maintenance. I wonder if I keep my Chlorine at 1 ppm, if I can control my pH better?!?

Finally, I am thinking my pool just likes to be at 8.0 or 8.1 pH and given that situation, I still have a good LSI "balanced" score when considering my TDS is 4600 which is salt level of 3200 plus 1400 other solids. Otherwise, if I force pH to be lower as much as possible, then the only way to be balanced "LSI-wise" is to jack up Calcium hardness or TA.

I don't see wildly fluctuating numbers in any other parameter, just pH. Someone else in thread said, use Muriatic Acid and this will be better on my system, and help with pH maintenance.