Winter heater suggestion for Virginia

The ETI heater design is simply the same heating design as a condensing water heater - the hot exhaust combustion gas is used to preheat the water load before it enters the heat exchanger. This heat transfer typically causes the exhaust gas to fall below the condensation temperature of the gas mixture resulting in a build up of very acidic condensate liquid. This condensation gets worse as air temperatures drop. The exchanger is made out of titanium but even titanium is not indestructible and so there are typically very specific air temp and water temp conditions that need to be adhered to or else the condensate will rot everything else out. Normally one needs to install a condensate neutralizing filter on the output of the drip pan that captures the condensate and moves it away from the heater body. But if acidic pool water is present, then the internals of the heater will still be subject to corrosion.

Efficiency and quality really don’t matter if the source of the problem (acidic water in the heat exchanger) isn’t addressed. The ETI is >90% efficient. The Regular MT is ~ 85% efficient and the HD that has the cupronickel exchanger is the least efficient (< 80%). Only Pentair can give you their estimate of reasonable lifetimes based on usage pattern. If your plan is to fire them up year round, then the wear and tear is pretty high and someone should be servicing them regularly to keep them running. Just like an automobile, if you only wait to change the oil and tune up the engine when the check engine light comes on, then the damage done is far worse than a simple oil change will remedy. None of the heaters will last if the water going into them has acidity issues.
Thanks
 
Thanks for all the input. Is there any way to deal with potential condensate on the Mastertemp when the unit is used below 32? Many have raised this as a potential issue. The pump runs the majority of the time (pentair VF pump).
 
Thanks for all the input. Is there any way to deal with potential condensate on the Mastertemp when the unit is used below 32? Many have raised this as a potential issue. The pump runs the majority of the time (pentair VF pump).



Put the heater in a heated enclosure with the condensate drain piped outside with heat tape around it.
 
@1poolman1 has a lot of experience in this area and the one thing he will reiterate over and over again is that he WILL NOT sell a customer a heater or install one if a tab feeder is inline. He has decades (hopefully I’m getting that right) of experience and he has see more rotted out heat exchangers from tab feeders than any other failure mode …

Buying a more expensive heater will not likely solve your problem and will more than likely result in you trashing a very expensive hybrid heater.
Absolutely correct. Have seen a heater destroyed in 6 months on one pool. I removed the tab feeder, with the customer's permission after refusing to install the heater unless it was removed. That's all I was hired to do by another company. The other company reinstalled one then called me and said the heater was leaking. Max-E-Therm heater wasn't just leaking, water was being pumped out the fan as the entire heat exchanger was destroyed.
That was the most egregious example. Fortunately, they are no longer legal on commercial installations here and heaters are lasting a bit longer.