Bought this home with its 13' x 26' freeform pool in FL about a year ago. Have noticed that the water level seems to quickly seep down to even with or just below some of the small cracks around the pool's top edge, and then stay stable. See pictures. I don't know what this material is, but I'm hoping to be able to fill in these small non-displaced cracks. There's ~8 of them spread around the pool, all at or above the waterline. Is filling them in a good idea, and if so, what would I use to fill them in?
Want to confirm that the pool has no water line tile?
If so, that may possibly be a crack in the Bond Beam of the pool shell.
This would be a more time consuming repair than filling the cracks in with mortar.
Improperly installed decking without proper expansion joints are a common cause of Bond Beam movement, this is hard to determine without seeing pictures of the decking and coping from a better advantage point.
If so, that may possibly be a crack in the Bond Beam of the pool shell.
This would be a more time consuming repair than filling the cracks in with mortar.
Improperly installed decking without proper expansion joints are a common cause of Bond Beam movement, this is hard to determine without seeing pictures of the decking and coping from a better advantage point.
No water line tile. Looks kinda like some decorative cementious finish. Attached more pics. These cracks aren't just in one spot, they're spread around the pool. No horizontal displacement. Almost looks like someone filled some in previously somehow.
Under the pavers, there is a few feet of concrete/cement surrounding the pool, and these pavers on top.
Attachments
The tile guy should not have put that cementitious product under the decking. That may not be a quick, easy fix
How long does it take for your pool to drain down to the cracks? Can you live with the water loss?
How long does it take for your pool to drain down to the cracks? Can you live with the water loss?
There’s no tile because someone removed it likely because it was falling off due to the bond beam crack.
Leaking water causes more damage.
I don't understand why there is no waterline tile. It should be where that "mortar" or "grout" is.
The pool wall and the decking don't move together...........that's why the mortar is cracked and will continue to crack. You may get a few years out of it by forcing polyurethane caulk into the cracks but I am not sure how it will look cosmetically nor how long it will last,
The pool wall and the decking don't move together...........that's why the mortar is cracked and will continue to crack. You may get a few years out of it by forcing polyurethane caulk into the cracks but I am not sure how it will look cosmetically nor how long it will last,
Thank you. It's not really flat or smooth so I have a hard time imagining tiles were ever on top of it, but you guys have way more expertise than me. If water is above the cracks after rainfall, it usually comes down to their level in about 24 to 48 hours. The level of the water is still comfortable there, just the ideal height is probably 1 to 1.5 inches higher.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,774
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I don't think tiles were ever on top of that cement coating.
My guess is that cement coating was put on the waterline after the tile cracked and popped off. Whoever did that either thought the cement would stabilize the cracked bond beam or to cover up the problem for a while.
I think that pool started its life with typical waterline tile and the cement was put on the waterline in place of the tile when the pebble finish was put on.
This is what you will likely find if the cement is stripped off down to the bond beam...
Expansion Joints and Coping - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,774
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
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