SLAM necessary when Opening?

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Van G

Van G

Bronze Supporter
Mar 22, 2016
255
Toronto
I’m in Toronto and use the spa late into the year while keeping clean and balanced.

I closed the pool on Dec with proper chemistry. Water temp was 44.

Opening pool now at 45. I’ve added a little chlorine every couple weeks once the ice cleared and fished out material when appropriate. There was some organic matter that was too fine for net that will be vacuumed and filtered out.

My question - Do I need to SLAM? How can I determine?
 
So my OCLT was .5 and the pool water continues to clear.

We’ve got a good amount of rain coming so I may hold off on manual vac and another round of testing.

I’ve run the robot a dozen times after thorough net session and brushing.

Should I be running pump 24/7 until water is sparkling clear?
 
With a VS pump, absolutely. I found that low speed worked better for me with less stirring. It just needs time.
 
I’ve passed OCLT again and the pool is spotless.

However, the water is still slightly ‘blurry’, as in not crystal clear and sparkling.

We did have 4+ inches of rain last week…. But how long should it take to sparkle?
 
What is your current FC reading? With a CYA of 50 you should be keeping it in the 6-8 range. Your 5 FC reading is flirting with the minimums, so I would get it up to the target range or even a bit higher and then do another OCLT for good measure.

Also, when was the last time you cleaned your filter and how does your pressure look (now vs your clean PSI).
 
FC is 5. Do I need 6-8 because I’m using liquid chlorine as opposed to SWG?

When water temps come up for SWG I keep FC between 3-5 with a CYA of 60.

Filters are clean and PSI is normal.
 
Van G said:
FC is 5. Do I need 6-8 because I’m using liquid chlorine as opposed to SWG
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No matter what, you need to have enough FC to remain free and clear of min for your CYA level.

It's a moving target when you lose less daily now, and more in the peak season.

Most SWG pools swing, albeit less than liquid chlorine pool. You need to understand how yours behaves.

If you produce all your FC at night, you swing like a LC pool during the day, losing the full amount.

If you run 24/7, you produce your daily FC over 24 hours but lose 100% of it in 6(?) hours.

If you only run mid day, it's closer to matching the loss as it happens, but still may dip a little.

There is no wrong way to do it, but understand how each may affect your FC and ensure it always has wiggle room at the low point of the day.

Van G said:
However, the water is still slightly ‘blurry’, as in not crystal clear and sparkling.
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Mine took up to 2 weeks every spring for the filter to polish the pollen out with heavy trees.
 

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