- Jul 22, 2023
- 266
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What TA are you targeting? TA down to 50 is perfectly fine. As you approach a TA of 50, be judicious with MA additions and let the pH stabilize in the high 7s. A non-trichlor pool will seldom (likely never) need baking soda. In 14 years of pool ownership, I've never added baking soda.1 bag baking soda every 2 months
My TA target is 70.What TA are you targeting? TA down to 50 is perfectly fine. As you approach a TA of 50, be judicious with MA additions and let the pH stabilize in the high 7s. A non-trichlor pool will seldom (likely never) need baking soda. In 14 years of pool ownership, I've never added baking soda.
You would benefit from a lower TA of 50-60. Stop adding baking soda. Reduce the amount of MA added as you approach 50, just enough to get your pH into the high 7s.I do have a lot of water features: bubbler, waterfall, three laminar jets I'd like to run as desired without having to restrict their use.
This is somewhat confusing. PoolMath states the ideal TA is 60-80. This is the reason I've targeted 70.You would benefit from a lower TA of 50-60. Stop adding baking soda. Reduce the amount of MA added as you approach 50, just enough to get your pH into the high 7s.
I dint notice this post. Co2 wont solve the issues with the bubblers etc. In fact it will likely cause more problems than it solves. I too would favour a lower than usual TA.My TA target is 70.
I do have a lot of water features: bubbler, waterfall, three laminar jets I'd like to run as desired without having to restrict their use.
You wont need much baking soda if ever, if you’re following TFP.So, they are claiming it is 1/5 the cost of MA and baking soda.
Not sure how many years the payback would be.
2-3 50-lbs tank refills per year at $1/lb = $100-$150 year plus initial investment of ~$1100.
I don't know yet, but I would assume 1/gal of MA month and 1 bag baking soda every 2 months?
I really don't like that I keep breathing in the MA no matter how hard I try not to. So, that may be a benefit worth paying for?
Yes, following PoolMath recommendations. Sometimes it calls to add baking soda.You wont need much baking soda if ever, if you’re following TFP.
PoolMath is a calculator. Don't arbitrarily follow its advice.Yes, following PoolMath recommendations. Sometimes it calls to add baking soda.
pH will likely stabilize ~7.8, maybe a little higher, which is perfectly fine. Let the TA and pH achieve equilibrium.TA at 50 and pH set to high 7s (7.6)
My pH keeps going to 8 or more. PoolMath may be a calculator but isn't its purpose to calculate the relationships for the recommend and ideal ranges? As mentioned, I would like to continue using all these expensive water features that were put in and automate the adding of the MA for TA/pH if it means that will keep being impacted from the aeration.PoolMath is a calculator. Don't arbitrarily follow its advice.
pH will likely stabilize ~7.8, maybe a little higher, which is perfectly fine. Let the TA and pH achieve equilibrium.
PH TA Relationship - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Managing pH and Total Alkalinity - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Yes but there are way too many variables that PM can't know, such as climate, time of season, and fill water parameters.PoolMath may be a calculator but isn't its purpose to calculate the relationships for the recommend and ideal ranges?
Is the pH going to 8.0 or higher than that? It may sound like a small difference but it isn’t. If it stays at 8.0 for a while during the winter, it’s probably not a bad thing. You can wait until it gets to 8.1-8.2 to gently lower it back to 7.8.My pH keeps going to 8 or more. PoolMath may be a calculator but isn't its purpose to calculate the relationships for the recommend and ideal ranges? As mentioned, I would like to continue using all these expensive water features that were put in and automate the adding of the MA for TA/pH if it means that will keep being impacted from the aeration.
CSI is an indicator of corrosion or scale forming of the water. It is only a part of the overall picture.My CSI has always been in the range where PM says congratulations on that one all the time. Does that mean everything has been all good? I can only reach up to pH 8.0 with Taylor kit. I don't know how far over.
Even the CSI being “optimal” isn’t specific enough. Do you have a SWCG? If so, keeping the CSI slightly below zero is beneficial. If plaster is new, keeping is slightly positive for a bit can be helpful. All kinds of variables to account for.My CSI has always been in the range where PM says congratulations on that one all the time. Does that mean everything has been all good? I can only reach up to pH 8.0 with Taylor kit. I don't know how far over.
I thought PM was holistic and it can (whether it does or not) know geographic location and by system clock knows month and therefore season conditions. Several services can provide that data for the app. It can have a set of parameters to get your fill water. But, in the end it is the water being tested continuously for that it should be self adjusting for. I actually find it hard for it not to know something since it can ask for as much as measure devices/methods we can use to provide to it.
I understand if one has some particular condition and preference like new plaster and PM doesn't have mode to set the relationships for those (e.g. need positive CSI). But with just ensuring the pool water is well balanced, it should be self adjusting by looking across all the input parameters.
With all the AI advancements of recent, looks like PM would benefit from a LLM of sorts to make it intelligent.